Another New Owner

SovereignDragon

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Hello everyone. I just picked up a new to me 82 XS650 Heritage Special and figured I'd stop and say hi. I've been reading a lot on the forum for the past few days and figured I'd go ahead and register.
 
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I don't know why it posted twice but there she is. 82 Heritage Special with 5745 miles. Only mod is k&n panel filters, windshield, saddle bags, fork bag and sissy bar. Only cost a grand and I rode it home.
 
You did good but if you hang around here much, that "only mod" statement is going to change, lol. That's not a bad thing though. There's a multitude of little "fixes" and upgrades you can do to make the bike better. If you like to tinker, you bought the perfect bike.
 
Yeah this isn't my first rodeo. There is a pool going at work of people guessing how long I'll be able to leave it alone. It's just in such good shape I don't want to do anything that isn't reversable unless it's a much needed upgrade, like ditching the old fuse block and upgrading to blade style.
 
Nice bike. Good to see one not sliced and diced. Should be a fun ride. If the fuse holders are good no need to change. I never had any problems with the stock system. Can of worms. The blade fuses are good replacement. Ride it and fix it when it quits. :D
 
That looks good, you even got the lower side beauty covers with it.
Welcome to the site.
 
Yeah this isn't my first rodeo. There is a pool going at work of people guessing how long I'll be able to leave it alone. It's just in such good shape I don't want to do anything that isn't reversable unless it's a much needed upgrade, like ditching the old fuse block and upgrading to blade style.

Hi Dragon,
nice bike, leave it the f**k alone.
Except for switching to blade fuses, those are a good thing.
And swap out the rototillers for a 'bar that makes ergonomic sense.
And a Standard tank drops straight on if you want to go someplace without perpetually scanning the horizon for the next gas station.
And a good LOUD horn, the stocker's pathetic bleat is just an embarrassment.
And even if the tires look OK, how old are they? Old tires get hard and don't grip worth a damn.
 
Yeah I'm sure I'll put on new handlebars and maybe forward controls but nothing serious. I wouldn't mind a little extra capacity on the tank but I'm just going to use it to go to work and back. That's only 24 miles round trip. If I could find a Standard tank like mine that had the ghost flames then I might go for it but it would have to be one hell of a deal.
 
Ok. So I got the bike thursday. Since then I have changed the oil, replaced the spark plugs, put a full bottle of seafoam and 93 octane gas in the tank to run, checked the air filters, checked the carb sync, washed and waxed, set valve lash, replaced the battery and replaced those terrible handlebars. Next is clean the carbs and make some forward controls then just ride the hell out of it.
 
It was almost dark once I was done tinkering for the night so I didn't get any pics yet. I'll take some tomorrow. I used some 4 inch dog bone risers and a set of drag bars I had laying around. Feels a lot better now.
 
An important maintenance item on these bikes that you didn't mention doing is checking/setting the cam chain tension. It should be done quite often, like every 1000 miles. Due to the crude oil filtration system, oil changes should also be done frequently, like every 1000 to 1500 miles. You can combine the two, checking the cam chain every time you change the oil.

You also made no mention of checking the oil filters. The bottom filter has a habit of tearing so needs to be inspected, especially on a new-to-you 650. Aftermarket replacements are available but they tear too. Most of us just repair the ripped ones with JB Weld .....

SumpFilters.jpg


If you watch eBay, you can usually find a spare sump plate with a torn filter for $15 or $20. Patch it up and you'll have an extra to swap in at oil changes.
 
I did check the filter on the side of the crankcase but not the sump. That's a good idea, I like to have extra parts that I can clean to minimize down time. Just swap on the fresh one and clean the other when you have time. As for the chain I haven't done that yet. I was going to do it right before pulling the carbs today to clean them. As for the oil change interval we are on the same page with that one. At only 2 quarts of oil these need changed constantly. I know modern oil is better than it used to be but it still breaks down and with only 2 quarts protecting the internals it is very important. I plan on doing it every thousand miles. My local autozone puts valvoline motorcycle oil on sale constantly so I stock up. I probably have 2 dozen bottles on my shelf. 6 bucks every thousand miles sounds a lot better than locking up an engine and all the hassle that comes with it.
 
If you have access to a shop manual, you'll see the cam chain adjustment procedure consists of rotating the motor by hand and observing the plunger on the adjuster bolt. It will move in and out slightly as you turn the motor over and they tell you to set the adjuster bolt so the plunger does not come out past flush with it. There is an easier way. Set/check the tensioner while the motor is idling. You want the plunger to be bouncing in and out about a MM or 2. No movement means it's set too tight. More than a couple MM means it's too loose. Basic procedure is to tighten the adjuster until the movement pretty much stops, then back it out again until you get the desired movement back.
 
The previous owner had a Clymer manual he gave me. As for the running method I need to get the idle right before trying to adjust it. I'll probably set it by the manual and then check it once the carbs are cleaned.
 
I wasn't able to get any pics before tearing into the carbs today. It was raining and I need to get it going for work on monday. I'll take some tomorrow when I finish. I will eventually make some forward controls for it too but that'll be a different thread when that happens. Thanks again everyone for the words of wisdom and gracious welcome to the family.
 
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