another no charging issue

cros36

cros36

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allright, recently got a bunch of help finding out that i needed a new battery, and i thank you guys for that. now i am not charging correctly. ill get straight to the facts and findings from my trouble shooting.

between all 3 white field wires i get .5ohms
all 3 white wires to ground nothing changes on my multimeter with ignition off.
between slip rings 5.0-5.2 a little jumpy

at idle i get .2 reading on my multimeter set at 200 ACV. between all 3 white wires. rectifier unplugged.

battery is at 12.03 off
at idle 11.90, when i throttle up (no tach, sorry) i can get it to jump to 11.93. these are more like 2-3 second 3/4 throttle blips

now the only riding that ive done is around town type 30-45, with stop lights and a bunch of idling. i am not confident with going onto the expressway as of yet, so should i try to take it to a secondary road where i can open it up a little better and stop every so often and take battery readings. not completly sure about the .2readings on the white wires at idle. i may be over thinking and paranoid about not charging.

mysetup
74xs650
pamco
green monster coil
chrysler reg
new Part #24-2085 from mikes rectifier
open pipes (drag pipes i guess is what the kids are calling them)
bs38 w/uni pods. spark plug reading brown/tanish :thumbsup:
single 35/35 headlight
single trailer tailight style
kick only, one kick starts great :thumbsup:

*headlight and taillight unplugged for tests
 
Were did you find a 35/35 watt headlight?
Any way onto the charging. With your reg unplugged. Engine running, volt meter hooked to battery.
Hook up jumpers to the brushes so you are running full battery voltage through the brushes. This will bypass the reg and have the alternator put out max voltage. As you do this test watch the battery voltage. The voltage at the battery should climb to over 16 volts if the rotor and stator are good. Don't let the voltage get over 15 volts or so. more will hurt the battery.
If the voltage won't raise up then the rotor or stator are suspect.
All three white wires being .5 ohms is ok.
Slip rings at 5 to 5.2 ohms is ok. Jumping around may be just dirty slip rings and not getting good reading. I use contaxt cleaner and 600 grit sand paper to get them bright and shiny.
On my 75 I use the Chrysler reg. If you hook the green and brown wires hooked up reverse, you will cook the reg as soon as you apply power.
It has to be hooked up just like in this diagram.
On your rectifier unplugged test on the three white wires you might want to recheck them. On mine I get a bit over 10 volts testing that way.
On the wiring you had to do at the brushes you need full battery voltage on the brown wire. If not the rotor won't get full magnetism. Weak magnet = weak charge.
Checking all your connections won't hurt.
Leo
 

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Using the chysler reg.................did you unground the right inner brush?

0.2 volts AC at idle is bad news for sure. Testing for AC voltage should be done with the rectifier plugged in. With all circuits plugged in, idling 1200 rpm, you should have 12.5 to 13 volts AC on any 2 white wires.

You should measure the resistance from any one white wire to ground (should be a very high resistance, using a high ohm scale) Disconnect the multipin connector and the yellow wire connector for this test.
 
xsleo, the headlight is a sylvania h5006 automotive headlight that fits to a bucket a friend gave me

possibly i had my regulators mixed up when stating what i have. i have the vr291/r292. i have the yellow and orange hooked up to the key switch. and green to green, and black to a solid frame ground. like this diagram.
*not using radioshack rectifier
combo.jpg


the jumper test is the only test that i have yet to do because im pretty dumb and i hard wired the green from the stator to the green on the regulator and i didnt want to cut that connection just yet. but now its time.

RG, through my xs wiring studies i have come to the conclusion that i do not need to unground the inner brush in my application. my 74 came with a separate regulator and rectifier and i replaced it with new separate regulator and rectifier. but again, my studies have been limited to this forum and the garage.
 
and just to clarify, i put one end of the jumper on the green brush right at the stator and the other goes to a ground correct? that is how i interpreted curly #3. and the other regulator wires unplugged from the keyswitch
 
cros36 said:
xsleo, the headlight is a sylvania h5006 automotive headlight that fits to a bucket a friend gave me

possibly i had my regulators mixed up when stating what i have. i have the vr291/r292. i have the yellow and orange hooked up to the key switch. and green to green, and black to a solid frame ground. like this diagram.
*not using radioshack rectifier
combo.jpg


the jumper test is the only test that i have yet to do because im pretty dumb and i hard wired the green from the stator to the green on the regulator and i didnt want to cut that connection just yet. but now its time.

RG, through my xs wiring studies i have come to the conclusion that i do not need to unground the inner brush in my application. my 74 came with a separate regulator and rectifier and i replaced it with new separate regulator and rectifier. but again, my studies have been limited to this forum and the garage.
Click to expand...

I replied based on what you said.............chysler regulator............with the R292 then the right inner brush is grounded.
 
got a clip on the green brush, when i go clamp onto the battery + i get sparks.

do i clip anyways? just trying not to hurt anything, including myself
 
ok, so i cut the green wire, unhooked the orange and yellow from the key switch. put a jumper from the green brush to the battery positive. started her up and my volts jumped right up. they got up to near 15 when i shut her down. this was easily within 20 seconds.

this points directly to the regulator correct?
 
Sounds like it to me. When you got the reg did it come with a warranty? Mine did, 1 year free replacement. If so take it back and get another one.
When you bypass the reg, it's done differently on the 70-79 models than on the 80 up models.
The early bikes the reg controled the power to the rotor. So the jumper is from Battery + to the green wire.
On the 80 up the reg controls the ground on the rotor. So the jumper is from the green to ground.
Leo
 
Last edited:
xsleo, thanks for the response. yes it came with a warranty, but its the one receipt that i dont have with this bike. i have receipt from nuts and bolts and zip ties, but something electrical and with a warranty i somehow misplace. maybe my name is in their system or something.

and the jumping thing makes sense to me know. RG and leo saved the day again.
 
got the new regulator hooked up today. all is well. just wanted to stop by and say that THIS issue has been resolved for future reference. :thumbsup: :bike:
 
Glad to hear the fix, many don't tell us if what was suggested helped. Just don't hear from them. Good to hear that what was said helped.
Thank you.
Leo
 

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