Norton7d
XS650 Junkie
OK, although I may check the rectifier and its ground connection since its raining out.
-
Enjoy XS650.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS650.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
Another voltage regulator thread full of questions.
- Thread starter Norton7d
- Start date
I made this video for testing the rectifier on a combined unit, but it'll work for testing yours too
Norton7d
XS650 Junkie
Thats funny, I had seen that a while ago although didnt get that into it as it was mostly over my head at the time although, no idea that was you.
I may have a higher level of understanding now so maybe I can stay tuned for the necessary tutorial.
Thanks.
I may have a higher level of understanding now so maybe I can stay tuned for the necessary tutorial.
Thanks.
Norton7d
XS650 Junkie
Jim, just completed following your step by step rectifier test, here are wht I consider the critical results.
Your first test at 3 minutes, you showed no voltage drop although my meter fluctuated between .001 and .002, not good I assume.
My other concermimg results were when u tested and got about half a volt loss, .52, I was showing .56ish, this was during your second and fourth tests, @ the 3:50 and 4:40 marks.
During your 3rd and fifth tests at 4:15 and 5:10, you once again were about 1/2 a volt, while I was at .65 -.68.
Can I assume all of this means I need a new rectifier?
Your first test at 3 minutes, you showed no voltage drop although my meter fluctuated between .001 and .002, not good I assume.
My other concermimg results were when u tested and got about half a volt loss, .52, I was showing .56ish, this was during your second and fourth tests, @ the 3:50 and 4:40 marks.
During your 3rd and fifth tests at 4:15 and 5:10, you once again were about 1/2 a volt, while I was at .65 -.68.
Can I assume all of this means I need a new rectifier?
That's just the nature of cheap meters. It's not a problem, it just means that amount has to be deducted from your reading.
.68V is on the high end of what's acceptable... but it is acceptable. Just remember, your problem was overcharging. Too high a voltage loss (drop) across the diodes would cause charging to be lower. I'd say you're good. But, your rectifier is 40+ yrs old. I'd just suggest that replacing it would be good preventative maintenance practice.
Yes, a new rectifier is a cheap and easy replacement. Then you'll have a brand new component that will work more efficiently than your old (practically antique, lol) original. The rectifier doesn't generate any charge, it simply acts as a filter or converter for the AC charge that the alternator feeds into it. It "filters" it and DC voltage comes out the other side. If some of the diodes in it fail, you'll get less voltage out than what is fed in, not more.
Norton7d
XS650 Junkie
Thanks Jim and 5T, can I assume none of this speaks to why I get 14 at idle?
Neverthelesa, knowing my bike is back together, I am hoping to find a replacement that doesnt require an intricate mount or bracket to be fabbed due to the somewhat hidden nature of the rectifier, so the "hole in the middle" mounting characteristic of the XS500 unit is quite attractive, unless there is another plug and play replacement for my model?
Neverthelesa, knowing my bike is back together, I am hoping to find a replacement that doesnt require an intricate mount or bracket to be fabbed due to the somewhat hidden nature of the rectifier, so the "hole in the middle" mounting characteristic of the XS500 unit is quite attractive, unless there is another plug and play replacement for my model?
Here's the rectifier most of us use.
https://www.windynation.com/Rectifier/35-Amp-3-Phase-Bridge-Rectifier/-/218?p=YzE9MjA=
https://www.windynation.com/Rectifier/35-Amp-3-Phase-Bridge-Rectifier/-/218?p=YzE9MjA=
Norton7d, buying from WindyNation is a good move because it means the rectifier came via an approved distribution network. This guarantees the rectifier will be top quality and reliable. Buying from Joe Bloggs' friend on Ebay does not always carry this guarantee of quality/reliability. The WindyNation rectifiers have an excellent reputation for use on XS650s.
Hello Norton
Remember that you will need a cooling plate attached to your rectifier. When I was doing this job I purchased one of these from China. It has the cooling fins attached. That was in February and I am still waiting - no-one counted on the Corona mishap. 5T did an excellent write up on how to fit and wire these in my "Headlight Wiring" thread.
Remember that you will need a cooling plate attached to your rectifier. When I was doing this job I purchased one of these from China. It has the cooling fins attached. That was in February and I am still waiting - no-one counted on the Corona mishap. 5T did an excellent write up on how to fit and wire these in my "Headlight Wiring" thread.
Attachments
Norton7d
XS650 Junkie
I did not know I will need a cooling plate, if so, thanks for the tip.
Now, how does know if their cooling plate is large enough to do the job?
Now, how does know if their cooling plate is large enough to do the job?
Have a look at that thread. Machine pulls a neat trick with spaced washers so I don't think that size matters.
Cheers
Cheers
Last edited:
Headlight Wiring thread (pg. 3). 5T knows his stuff.
Cheers
Cheers
Norton7d
XS650 Junkie
Be aware that Randy's method is as yet untried. Heat dissipation and transfer relies in large part on the contact area between the part and the heat sink. Many mount these on some aluminum plate several inches square. It's also recommended that you apply some heat sink paste between the rectifier and the heat sink. I got a little fancy with mine, mounting it to a section of old computer CPU heat sink .....
I used a section of heat sink long enough to allow me to add a mounting bracket next to the rectifier. The gray stuff you see along the seam between the rectifier and the heat sink is the thermal paste .....
The longer bolts I used to attach the hanger bracket allowed me to add a wire loom retaining clip on top .....
If you look at the last pic in post 26, you can see the completed unit hung under the battery box in the original rectifier mounting location.
I used a section of heat sink long enough to allow me to add a mounting bracket next to the rectifier. The gray stuff you see along the seam between the rectifier and the heat sink is the thermal paste .....
The longer bolts I used to attach the hanger bracket allowed me to add a wire loom retaining clip on top .....
If you look at the last pic in post 26, you can see the completed unit hung under the battery box in the original rectifier mounting location.
It is true that my very simple washer spaced "air cooled" rectifier mount is unproven. I have hopes that the location change will catch more wind than under the battery box. And, I do live in a rather cool part of the country perspectively and I really prefer to ride on cool days. Hot days? Nope, its shorts and bicycle time.
I did the mount with what I had on hand, not all that fancy.
-R
Whatever you use, make sure it's either aluminum, brass or copper. Those are the 3 (most affordable) metals with the best heat transfer rate. And yeah... use the heat transfer paste.
Norton7d
XS650 Junkie
From the moment I saw Randy's, I did the question if there was enough meat on the bone to adequately cool, but I really like Randy's location as well, easy to see if a connector becim1es detached, etc.
5T made a nice bracket and the wires run thru a secure grommet to help keep the parts still.
My plates will likely be aluminium like my other creations, good to know about the paste, I assume it adds higher ability for heat to transfer a greater rate than contact alone?
5T made a nice bracket and the wires run thru a secure grommet to help keep the parts still.
My plates will likely be aluminium like my other creations, good to know about the paste, I assume it adds higher ability for heat to transfer a greater rate than contact alone?
