Another wiring question

[arcticXS]

Updated wiring diagram attached:

Pete,
That is a very nice and professional looking diagram you have made!
Now, I may be confused or just plain uninformed, but I struggle a little bit with the kill switch setup you have there, and how the Aux output is controlled.
But let's start with the ignition lock first. Battery + is on the red wire to ignition lock, then when the key is turned, it is on the brown wire to "Lock" input on the M Unit, which sort of turns the unit on, correct?
But how is the Aux output switched ON? After all, the kill switch receives +12VDC on the brown wire from Aux out, and proceeds to operate the relay, which then disconnects the Con input from ground, if I understand this correctly.
What I would have done, is to supply the kill switch directly from the ignition lock switched out (brown), without involving the M Unit. Then used the relay to control ground or no ground to the relevant input channel.

 

[peterg]

For clarity my bike is my first foray into anything auto or motorcycle related. While researching electrical systems I determined that the m unit was a good option for me since I knew nothing about relays, fuses, etc. I did know that re wiring the bike from scratch was needed in order to build the bike I wanted.

I wired the bike as per the m unit manual except for the ignition system. I wired the ignition system as per my hand drawn schematic to work around the stock kill switch.

Turning the key on turns on the m unit.

The aux channel engaged when the unit is turned on. (Key on > m unit turns on > aux channel turns on).

On the newest schematic I posted I showed the ignition powered via the relay via the aux channel since the m unit manual indicates this. Powering the ignition system via the relay via the key switch would bypass the m unit fuses.

The other option I thought of is to provide the ignition system with power directly from the aux channel and grounding the system directly to ground not through the config channel.

 

[arcticXS]

Ok,now I understand a bit more. And I had to download the v2 manual to get the aux/config relationship.
Sorry that I created confusion by stupidly assuming that v1 that you have, and v2 that Chachiboy has operates like the current basic and blue versions. Which is not the case, if I understand the manuals correctly. (The addition of a relay may, or may not be required for the new "basic" model I just ordered for myself. I will try to create a new thread when doing the rewiring of my 77 D Euro model)


Briefly pushing your config button should stop the engine, correct? (No power from Aux)
Then pushing it for 2 second resets the kill function to run again, correct? (Power from Aux is re-established)
It is now unclear to me what happens when you use the kill switch to stop the engine, and leave it in the "off" position, with a relay installed to provide a ground connection for the config input.
Will the Aux power stay off, or will it return after 2 seconds?
If it returns to run mode after 2 seconds, some kind of timer relay may be the solution. Basically converting the constant ground through the relay to a brief pulse.

 

[peterg]

Pressing my config button should kill the engine by temporarily turning off the aux channel.

Pressing the config button twice should reset the kill function. I have not tried using the config button as a kill switch.

I’m guessing that the aux channel stays off as long as the stock kill switch is in the off position (when wired with a relay).

Using the stock kill switch, as I have done and Chaliboy is planning to do, is clearly not the best switch to use with the m unit. If I build another bike with an m unit I will install a momentary pull button for the kill switch and be done with it.

 

[Chachiboy]

Yesterday I tried this:
Kill Switch:
Red/White to Aux out
Brown to coil and ignition unit

I would press the start button and the ignition system engaged when the kill switch was on and off. So in essence I still don't have a working kill switch.

I haven't installed a config button and really don't plan to. Today I will buy a relay and try your diagram wiring to see if the kill switch works from there. If not, I guess I will look into buying a toggle switch or something similar.

 

[peterg]

Chachiboy. Have you checked the continuity between the kill switches red/white wire and the brown wire? Check to see if you have continuity when the switch is set to run and then when the switch is set to off. There is no point trying other wiring configurations if your switch isn't working. If you don't have a multi meter now is a good time to buy one. You'll need it throughout your wiring project.

What makes you say the ignition system is engaging? Is the motor actually starting?

Photos would help.

 

[Chachiboy]

My bike already in the rewiring stage with the kill switch being the last piece. Rewiring with the relay took 2 seconds. Unfortunately that didnt work either. Thought I would try it before I buy a multimeter. It seems that it has to be the switch. I have tried different options for the red and brown with still no kill happening.

With the switch on kill, I shouldn't be able to start the bike, correct? When it's switched to on or kill and I press the start button, the bike is about to start. This shouldnt happen when on kill.

I will have to look inside the switch although I no nothing about internal contact points and how to repair

 

[peterg]

Sounds like the switch is faulty. The multimeter will help confirm that.

 

[Chachiboy]

Had some time to work on it the other day.

Couple updates
Switch - I completely took the kill/start switch apart and there was so much corrosion and dirt. I cleaned the connections up and all put it all back and it now works fine. While taking it apart a small ball bearing fell out and rolled away. Could not find to this day. Although the switch works fine now, I have to find the ball bearing replacement. When switching from start to kill (either way) the switch moves too smoothly with out the 'click' which is what the ball bearing must have been for. Now the search for a replacement.

Kill switch - I wired it as per the diagram peterg provided which was direct to the coil and it works fine shutting off engine. I don't see why I need to wire it to the munit config at this point. Is there any advantage of killing it at the coil vs at the aux output?

 

[peterg]

My kill switch is wired up as per my hand sketched diagram. Power is supplied to the coil/ignition via the switch. Arctic mentioned that there may be a voltage drop between at the switch. I don’t have any concerns myself.

 

[arcticXS]

Just measure voltage drop to the coil, when the points are closed. Measure between battery positive and coil positive terminal. Ideally it should measure very close to zero.

Had some time to work on it the other day.

Couple updates
Switch - I completely took the kill/start switch apart and there was so much corrosion and dirt. I cleaned the connections up and all put it all back and it now works fine. While taking it apart a small ball bearing fell out and rolled away. Could not find to this day. Although the switch works fine now, I have to find the ball bearing replacement. When switching from start to kill (either way) the switch moves too smoothly with out the 'click' which is what the ball bearing must have been for. Now the search for a replacement.

Kill switch - I wired it as per the diagram peterg provided which was direct to the coil and it works fine shutting off engine. I don't see why I need to wire it to the munit config at this point. Is there any advantage of killing it at the coil vs at the aux output?

My kill switch is wired up as per my hand sketched diagram. Power is supplied to the coil/ignition via the switch. Arctic mentioned that there may be a voltage drop between at the switch. I don’t have any concerns myself.

 

[Chachiboy]

Been a while since I have worked on my bike but I need to get it ready. All my wiring is done and everything works fine EXCEPT I didn't wire up the clutch safety switch wiring. At the moment the wires are dangling. Where do they go? Could I just delete them altogether? What is the good/bad of doing this?