The Tin Man
XS650 Addict
Mate you will never loose the old school appeal no matter what you do to it. And its yours to do what you want.
Is it a genuine GTS?
Is it a genuine GTS?
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Another XS bought back to life.
- Thread starter Lindsay G
- Start date
Lindsay G
XS650 Enthusiast
Yep genuine GTS. I'm pretty sure all the Monaros that came here new were GTS's
This was how she was when I got it in the mid 90's .
This was how she was when I got it in the mid 90's .
The Tin Man
XS650 Addict
They sent quite a few to South Africa as well GTS but rebagged Pontiac? or something. Also phase 3 ford foul cones.
Nice collection mate.
Nice collection mate.
Lindsay G
XS650 Enthusiast
I think they might have been badged Chevys for SA. Saw one for sale here a year or so ago. Same body but the grille and dash were different I think.
The Tin Man
XS650 Addict
You can have this for postage if you like. looks like the barrel has had some screwdriver action and i dont have a key but its your if you want it. I have the frame tab for it also. Mitch
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Lindsay G
XS650 Enthusiast
Lindsay G
XS650 Enthusiast
I had a mate come down on the weekend to sort the wiring for me. Like me he found the colour coding on the loom didn't tie in with anything at all (in the manuals) and none of the plugs matched so decided we would at least get it to run and sort all the other stuff later. The first problem we found was a split in the hose between the carbs but figured we probably had enough in the bowls to start it.( After cleaning up the spilt petrol obviously). Well after a few kicks (man its got some compression) the kick start stopped working. The lever went up and down but it just wasn't engaging. The reason why is obvious ( the spring has popped out of it's groove but why ?)
Lindsay G
XS650 Enthusiast
And this is what I should have done with the carbs first before installing them on the bike .
In the second photo can I just plug this hole? It looks to me like the left hand bowl gets filled with the horizontal tube. I've got a tee if I need to so its not a problem and I am only using one tap ( non vacuum )
In the second photo can I just plug this hole? It looks to me like the left hand bowl gets filled with the horizontal tube. I've got a tee if I need to so its not a problem and I am only using one tap ( non vacuum )
Lindsay G
XS650 Enthusiast
I had also made this latch before I got Mitch's offer. It was only ever going to be temporary so its not spring loaded, you have to open and close it by hand but it works OK
Lindsay G
XS650 Enthusiast
One more question. With the Pamco ignition do both plugs fire at the top of every stroke so I don't have a firing order to worry about so I can just run the plug leads to the nearest plug?
Don't know why that spring clip popped out of it's groove, never seen that happen before. I think the kick shaft would need to be pulled out some for that to happen. Did you allow the shaft to pull out as you removed the cover?
You're missing a fuel line nipple on that left carb. Originally, each carb had a fuel line run to it. Yes, I guess you could just plug the hole. One more thing - the butterfly shaped bracket between the carb tops is on backwards. The large cut-out should face the rear.
Yes, the Pamco fires both plugs every time so there's no firing order to worry about.
You're missing a fuel line nipple on that left carb. Originally, each carb had a fuel line run to it. Yes, I guess you could just plug the hole. One more thing - the butterfly shaped bracket between the carb tops is on backwards. The large cut-out should face the rear.
Yes, the Pamco fires both plugs every time so there's no firing order to worry about.
Lindsay G
XS650 Enthusiast
Thanks 5twins.
Lindsay G
XS650 Enthusiast
Wow, get busy at work and a month slips by just like that. So , still chasing the kickstart problem. The first photo shows the order I assembled the mechanism, shim, washer, collar, shim, circlip. The second photo shows the gap between the circlip and the shim which makes me think I need another shim in there. In the third photo I think there should be a washer between this and the keyhole shaped piece on the shaft shouldn't there?
Also looking at some schematics some say there should be a thrust washer between the outer cover and the collar, other schematics say a washer and the thread on the kickstarters says "
- XS1, B also used a thrust bearing between the seal and the spring guide instead of a washer and had no circlip on the shaft to hold the mechanism in place
- here in europe there were also 3 different kickstart levers and relevant bosses..see below"
My engine number is S650-017503. its pre electric start.
Also in the first photo is a thrust bearing. I went through my boxes of parts and found an old thrust bearing and bought one the same size thinking it may have been the right one but its too big so I think its probably a clutch one.
Also looking at some schematics some say there should be a thrust washer between the outer cover and the collar, other schematics say a washer and the thread on the kickstarters says "
- XS1, B also used a thrust bearing between the seal and the spring guide instead of a washer and had no circlip on the shaft to hold the mechanism in place
- here in europe there were also 3 different kickstart levers and relevant bosses..see below"
My engine number is S650-017503. its pre electric start.
Also in the first photo is a thrust bearing. I went through my boxes of parts and found an old thrust bearing and bought one the same size thinking it may have been the right one but its too big so I think its probably a clutch one.
Here's the kickstart snippet from the 70-72 parts list.
You'll want part #20 (shim) instead of #9 (roller bearing).
Also, count the teeth on the kickstart gear. Make sure it's 26 teeth...
You'll want part #20 (shim) instead of #9 (roller bearing).
Also, count the teeth on the kickstart gear. Make sure it's 26 teeth...
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Lindsay G
XS650 Enthusiast
Thanks 2M, I'll check it tomorrow.
Something to add here.
The parts manuals aren't clear on this, but another shim #20 may be needed. It is placed outside of the circlip #21, abutting the sidecover bushing, to limit outward movement of the kickstart shaft, best at about 1mm of lateral slop.
The shim #20 original p/n is 131-15653-00.
Later superceded to p/n 90201-25290 and 90201-256K6-00.
They're all the same size, 25.2mm ID, 36mm OD, 1mm or 0.9mm thick.
This shim is identical to the first spacing washer behind the clutch basket.
So, a bike may have a total of (3) of these shims...
The parts manuals aren't clear on this, but another shim #20 may be needed. It is placed outside of the circlip #21, abutting the sidecover bushing, to limit outward movement of the kickstart shaft, best at about 1mm of lateral slop.
The shim #20 original p/n is 131-15653-00.
Later superceded to p/n 90201-25290 and 90201-256K6-00.
They're all the same size, 25.2mm ID, 36mm OD, 1mm or 0.9mm thick.
This shim is identical to the first spacing washer behind the clutch basket.
So, a bike may have a total of (3) of these shims...
Lindsay G
XS650 Enthusiast
That's awesome thanks 2M. I definitely have the 26 tooth kickstart gear.
The idea of a shim after the circlip makes sense as the kickstart shaft was moving in and out .10" ( just over 2.5 mm). What about that gap between the existing washer and the circlip, Should that gap be shimmed?
And if I can't come up with genuine parts I will need to turn one up but I would think it would need to be pretty hard so I'm wondering about making one out of stainless steel .I've got a few offcuts laying around.
The idea of a shim after the circlip makes sense as the kickstart shaft was moving in and out .10" ( just over 2.5 mm). What about that gap between the existing washer and the circlip, Should that gap be shimmed?
And if I can't come up with genuine parts I will need to turn one up but I would think it would need to be pretty hard so I'm wondering about making one out of stainless steel .I've got a few offcuts laying around.
Lindsay G
XS650 Enthusiast
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Lindsay, I'm no expert on the kickstart, and my first inclination would be to assemble it as shown in the parts drawing. I'd also want to be sure that the kickstarter parts you have are all from the same early version, no mix/match with later versions. 3rd, get a thorough understanding of the intricacies of the mechanism before doing any experimental mods...
Lindsay G
XS650 Enthusiast
Agreed 2M,I wasn't actually going to modify anything but both of my workshop manuals a pretty vague when it comes to the kickstart. The information you've posted is the most useful I've seen and yeah, when those shims arrive I'll be comparing them to the measurements you provided.
