Anybody know if you need woodruff with Hughs PMA flywheel?

da evil one

XS650 Addict
Messages
215
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Location
Marietta,Ga. (Atlanta)
Im installing my Hughs PMA and all is smooth sailing but the only instructions I can find are for the Banshee mod and not Hughs own kit. You have to use a woodruff key on the crank to get the Banshee flywheel to play nice but I have no clue if you have to do that with Hughs kit. There isnt one in the kit and I would assume this is an install and forget setup. Thanks in advance(If you read this first Hugh Im sorry I didnt wait for your reply but Im sure you are busy designing something else badass for us)
 
I dont really even know what a woodruf key is but Im assuming its the raised groove on the crank that goes in the slot in the flywheel so it goes on correctly and keeps it from spinning. And Im gathering that the Banshee's flywheel slot was larger than the woodruff on the xs crank so it takes a little shim or woodruff. correct?
 
No woodruff key required. The key only locates the oem stator to the crank, but with the PMA, the location of the flywheel/crank relation is of no reference. Leave the key out, the taper and end nut do all the work :)
 
Thanks Hugh. It just seemed like it had a little play but everything seems to be working nice now. Is there any way you can send me a timing sticker or do I need to scab the plate of the old cover. My kit didnt come with one:(
 
Thanks Hugh. It just seemed like it had a little play but everything seems to be working nice now. Is there any way you can send me a timing sticker or do I need to scab the plate of the old cover. My kit didnt come with one:(

It should have, shoot me an email with your address, and I'll get you another sticker...
 
No woodruff key required. The key only locates the oem stator to the crank, but with the PMA, the location of the flywheel/crank relation is of no reference. Leave the key out, the taper and end nut do all the work :)

Oh now I read this! I must have spent half a day filing that #@%&^$# oddball stepped tapered metric standard woodruff key to fit! :laugh: Can someone go back and edit that original Banshee rotor swap post to remove the bit about the filed key?
Oh well, my rotor's on there now, hopefully to stay.
 
thats EXACTLY what i didnt want to do! what i was worried about was the fact that the only install instruction were the Banshee swap and it didnt make sense to me that Hugh would make his own all in one custom kit for the XS and still have it where you have to modify things. the whole purpose of the kit was to get everything at once, brand new and simplify the install to my knowledge. thats why i was looking at that Banshee stuff he posted and really browbeating myself. Hugh, if i could make a suggestion, could you post something about YOUR PMA or maybe even better yet a video. its not rocket science and it made sense pretty much except for that woodruff thing but you may help your future customers. consider that my comment card so far on the Hughs Handbuilt experience:)
 
... could you post something about YOUR PMA or maybe even better yet a video. its not rocket science and it made sense pretty much except for that woodruff thing but you may help your future customers. consider that my comment card so far on the Hughs Handbuilt experience:)

I'd second that. I have mine ready to install but I wasn't quite sure as to the correct procedure (I was ready to do the woodruff key as well). I'm just glad someone else asked first so I don't feel like the only idiot not getting it.

Does just the taper and nut keep it correctly on so you can do your timing?
 
We need a new thread/page for the PMA/Pamco and all the test fire info, haha. Would most likely help to free up Pete and Hugh from having to answer all these questions we have been asking over and over. I left my woodruff key in place, having read the banshee thread, but no filing or anything was done to the stock woodruff.

Like Hugh stated, the taper takes care of it. You will tighten it down and it will not move. You then find TDC and mark the rotor for timing. Not sure if it will matter, but I would at least line up the woodruff key slots so there is no magnet in the way of a TDC mark or something.
 
We need a new thread/page for the PMA/Pamco and all the test fire info, haha. Would most likely help to free up Pete and Hugh from having to answer all these questions we have been asking over and over. I left my woodruff key in place, having read the banshee thread, but no filing or anything was done to the stock woodruff.

Like Hugh stated, the taper takes care of it. You will tighten it down and it will not move. You then find TDC and mark the rotor for timing. Not sure if it will matter, but I would at least line up the woodruff key slots so there is no magnet in the way of a TDC mark or something.

I'll do a new HHB PMA Thread, and include the Pamcopete Ignition as well, since that is 90% what most people are doing anyhow. Might take me a week or so, and then we can have a better updated thread for you folks. Thanks for the suggestion :thumbsup:

Hugh
 
The taper on the crank and rotor should hold the rotor in place. There is a slim chance that the rotor can slip on the crank shaft and alter the timing marks.
The key's only purpose was to prevent this slippage.
Having the key is just assurance that the rotor stays lined up.
Leo
 
No woodruff key required. The key only locates the oem stator to the crank, but with the PMA, the location of the flywheel/crank relation is of no reference. Leave the key out, the taper and end nut do all the work :)
Would filing down the OEM woodruff key and putting it back in harm anything?
 
Ha, you got cauht as I often do, replying to a post, in this case, posted 10 years ago. In answer to your question, that is the fix, file the key down so it is stepped 5/6 mm. Whilst plenty wil say the key isn't necessary, it isn't if you want to mess around measuring the piston when at ? degrees BTDC, what could be easier than timing using the alternator rotor?
 
Back
Top