Banshee Wiring 79 points ign (want to keep stock ign.)

[ace79xs650]

New here and looking for some help.
I have all the parts I need to do the banshee swap.
I just need it clarified on the wiring. After I wire up my new combo regulator/rectifier and remove my old regulator and rectifier is there anything that I have to do with the wiring left over? Do I have to jumper anything?
Everything I have seen thus far tell me to get rid of the stock wiring and start over but what if I did not want to do that?

 

[XSLeo]

You can leave most of the stock wiring in place.
Depending on what you you want to work like stock depends on how much you modify the stock harness.
If you just wire in the PMA system the safety relay won't protect the starter or work the headlight.
There are two ways to fix this. Run a yellow wire from one of the three wires from your stator to the yellow wire of the safety relay. This will let it function as stock.
If you don't care about the safety relay you can unplug it and jumper the two red/white wires, this byp[asses the relay and lets the starter work. To get the headlight to work you need to unplug the resrve lighting unit and jumper the red/yellow to the blue/black.
this bypasses the RLU so power is sent to the headlight. This will let the headlight work, but all the time. So you can, instead of a jumper use a switch. With the switch in the off position the headlight won't come on. This will help with stsarting. Once started flip the switch on.
Leo

 

[ace79xs650]

You can leave most of the stock wiring in place.
Depending on what you you want to work like stock depends on how much you modify the stock harness.
If you just wire in the PMA system the safety relay won't protect the starter or work the headlight.
There are two ways to fix this. Run a yellow wire from one of the three wires from your stator to the yellow wire of the safety relay. This will let it function as stock.
If you don't care about the safety relay you can unplug it and jumper the two red/white wires, this byp[asses the relay and lets the starter work. To get the headlight to work you need to unplug the resrve lighting unit and jumper the red/yellow to the blue/black.
this bypasses the RLU so power is sent to the headlight. This will let the headlight work, but all the time. So you can, instead of a jumper use a switch. With the switch in the off position the headlight won't come on. This will help with stsarting. Once started flip the switch on.
Leo

Thanks I appreciate the help. I should get my rotor puller tomorrow so I can start working on this before weather clears up here in Michigan. I think I will try the switch approach that you mentioned. I alread removed my reserve lighting unit and jumpered the wires on it.

Andy

 

[ace79xs650]

You can leave most of the stock wiring in place.
Depending on what you you want to work like stock depends on how much you modify the stock harness.
If you just wire in the PMA system the safety relay won't protect the starter or work the headlight.
There are two ways to fix this. Run a yellow wire from one of the three wires from your stator to the yellow wire of the safety relay. This will let it function as stock.
If you don't care about the safety relay you can unplug it and jumper the two red/white wires, this byp[asses the relay and lets the starter work. To get the headlight to work you need to unplug the resrve lighting unit and jumper the red/yellow to the blue/black.
this bypasses the RLU so power is sent to the headlight. This will let the headlight work, but all the time. So you can, instead of a jumper use a switch. With the switch in the off position the headlight won't come on. This will help with stsarting. Once started flip the switch on.
Leo

One other question. After I remove the stock regulator and stock rectifier will I need to do anything to the plastic connnectors they connect to?

Andy

 

[XSLeo]

No. They are not used with the PMA. I would just wrap them up so they won't short anything.
Leo

 

[ace79xs650]

No. They are not used with the PMA. I would just wrap them up so they won't short anything.
Leo

Ok cool. Thanks a lot.
Still trying to find my way around this site.

Andy

 

[5twins]

'79 was the 1st year they eliminated the headlight on/off switch from the right handlebar switch housing. Find a little earlier switch assembly and you could gain that on/off switch back in it's factory form. However, I'm not sure there would be any wires in the harness for it anymore.