Broken float post...Argh!

jfinnan

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Posted over at the garage...

Accidentally broke off a carb float post. Anyway that can be fixed? Otherwise, does anyone have a pair of '80 or later BS34's they would be willing to part with? I really only need the left hand side carb body. I also have a pair of BS38s, pre '80, that I would be willing to trade for the BS34s...
 

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If you still have the post it can be fixed by welding or brazing. Better find a competent welder!
 
cheaper to buy a newer set or totally new than getting it welded ... if you're a member of the CBC™® (cheap bastards club) like me I would drill a small hole in both parts to fit a small metal wire plug and then JB weld it back together
 
Besides needing a dual cable throttle control, would I need to do anything else to use the BS38's? I am guessing I may need to rejet as well.
 
Look up wired george and his carb cleaning and repair service. Also R. Riles at motorcyclecarbs.com used to do this work though I'm not sure he does anymore. Or else get a set of VM34s from 650Central.com, which is probably the best way to go.
 
hi guys,,, yuk! a broken post,,,, a few years ago i did actually salvage a set of carbys buy SILVER SOLDERING the post together with the pin in place,,, using core silver solder and a decent electric soldering iron and to this day its worked well and its not affected by fuel,,,, you can get core silver solder at a decent engineering hardware or automotive parts store ... regards oldbiker
 
Posted over at the garage...

Accidentally broke off a carb float post. Anyway that can be fixed? Otherwise, does anyone have a pair of '80 or later BS34's they would be willing to part with? I really only need the left hand side carb body. I also have a pair of BS38s, pre '80, that I would be willing to trade for the BS34s...

Hi jfinnan,
I wouldn't put too much hope in welding/brazing/soldering being a good fix on the sorry pot-metal that carb bodies are made of.
A mechanical fix should work, though.
File the stub off square and tap it, perhaps M4 or M5. Cut the head off a long-enough bolt and cross-drill it to suit the float pin.
Screw the new post into the tapped hole, orient it's cross-hole and fix it in with Loctite stud locker.
A trick I was told years ago to safely remove float pins that's always worked for me:-
Hit one end of the float pin with a spring-loaded centerpunch.
 
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