So new to all things motorcycle and just getting my 79 sf on the road last night read my manual on can chain adjustment and I either missed or didn't say but when I'm turning adjuster bolt bike should be running I'm now told. It wasn't running when I did this. How big of a mistake did I make and what could happen??
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cam chain adjustment
- Thread starter newby79
- Start date
not a biggy, the manual says not running. Consensus on here is running is best. Do not over tighten, you should see movement in and out. If the rod stops moving it is too tight.
cros36
thread killer
your fine, just do it again. and dont go overboard. too tight is just as bad if not worse than too loose.
cros36
thread killer
when the bike isnt running their may or may not be tension on tension-er. so when its running you will see a medium of both.
The rod will be moving in and out of the adjuster collar with the cap off. A rough guess is that 1/8" to 3/16" is normal. IMHO Maxium extension of the rod should be about flush to the adjuster collar. Further debate encouraged.
The purpose of the adjuster is to set spring tension. The correct setting is a fine balance between enough spring tension to keep the chain from slapping as the opening and closing valves load and unload the chain,and so much tension (or a completely compressed spring
) that the chain pushes too hard on the guides and causes the guides to wear or crack or the chain to stretch.
The purpose of the adjuster is to set spring tension. The correct setting is a fine balance between enough spring tension to keep the chain from slapping as the opening and closing valves load and unload the chain,and so much tension (or a completely compressed spring
) that the chain pushes too hard on the guides and causes the guides to wear or crack or the chain to stretch.
When I adjust mine, first thing I do is take the bike for a ride so the engine is fully hot. Remove the large nut . Adjust inward using a 10 mm wrench until the in/out motion stops, then back off 3 flats, so there is some motion. Put the large nut back on. That's it, very simple
If you adjust when the motor is hot is it too tight when it cools off? Putting too much tension on the spring? An example is a chain saw adjusted when hot then left to cool will bend the bar. Or the drive chain isn't adjusted when hot. If so it will be too tight when cooled.
Someone can confirm but the SK manual says adjust when cold. Turn the crank enough to make sure the slack is on the backside. Run the adjuster in till the rod is flush with the end of the adjuster. Done. No backing off, no allowances for a hot motor.
Simply make sure all the slack is on the backside and you don't have to rotate the motor to do that. Just a nudge to the left. Turn adjuster in or out till flush. Button it back up.
The explanations in the earlier manuals makes it seem more complicated.
Someone can confirm but the SK manual says adjust when cold. Turn the crank enough to make sure the slack is on the backside. Run the adjuster in till the rod is flush with the end of the adjuster. Done. No backing off, no allowances for a hot motor.
Simply make sure all the slack is on the backside and you don't have to rotate the motor to do that. Just a nudge to the left. Turn adjuster in or out till flush. Button it back up.
The explanations in the earlier manuals makes it seem more complicated.
weekendrider;
I look at this way. If I go for a 6 hour riding day, my motor will be cold for 2% of the time and hot for 98% of the time. I prefer to have my camchain adjusted for the 98% period rather than the 2% period.
This is just my own method that I developed, because I always try to find the most simple and easiest way to do any job.
If guys are more comfortable doing the adjustment cold, then by all means they should do it that way.
I also listen to my engine when it starts and is cold, and when it is hot. My engine is as quiet as these engines can be, so I believe the cam chain is happy.
Does this work in real life? In July I went for a 5 day trip on my bike. Over 2000 kms, and the engine ran smooth and strong, through the mountains, using 56 mpg or 24 km/litre.
I look at this way. If I go for a 6 hour riding day, my motor will be cold for 2% of the time and hot for 98% of the time. I prefer to have my camchain adjusted for the 98% period rather than the 2% period.
This is just my own method that I developed, because I always try to find the most simple and easiest way to do any job.
If guys are more comfortable doing the adjustment cold, then by all means they should do it that way.
I also listen to my engine when it starts and is cold, and when it is hot. My engine is as quiet as these engines can be, so I believe the cam chain is happy.
Does this work in real life? In July I went for a 5 day trip on my bike. Over 2000 kms, and the engine ran smooth and strong, through the mountains, using 56 mpg or 24 km/litre.
The threads don't move, the threaded adjuster has a hole in the end, the rod that pushes on the guide is in that hole. The head of the rod should be visible and is correctly adjusted when the head comes out to no more than flush with end of the threaded adjuster.
I am Carbon
shade tree mechanic
first thing I do is take the cap off the adjuster. then I warm up the engine and while the engine is idling I make the adjustment tighten the lock nut. it is easy to see the rod moving in and out. I turn off the engine and put the cap back on and done. thats how i was taught and it works for me
