cam chain dampening

Travis, detuning the engine by dropping compression isn't something I advocate, but John's approach was to double up head gaskets. The more usual approach is to use a base plate; Cometic can make a .040" copper base gasket for a reasonable price, and installing one under an OEM base gasket will yield approximately 8:1 static CR on a stock displacement engine. Seal at top, middle, and bottom with Permatex Ultra Gray or Ultra Copper. Raising the deck will advance valve timing, so you'd need to degree the cam and move the sprocket as well. My personal take on this operation is that someone who wants an engine that will lug like a tractor is better off with a Hardly Ableson. Lugging an XS650 engine is every bit as destructive to it as ignoring redline.
 
Interesting.. seems like the copper base gasket would be the way to go if you wanted to do that... I thought I had read about using two head gaskets.. must have been john. Thanks for the info.
 
- im sure john would consider his riding style to be steady-state cruising rather than lugging, operating an engine at high load and low speed - a recognised problem in mine and general diesel operating
engine-no lugging

- steady-state cruising requires good gear control and can show lugging like symptoms if you dont have a feel for the road...problems like incr operating temps, incr CO emissions, using gears a lot, clutch load on crank, incr wear on crank bearings...there are better suited bikes for this

- i imagine that increasing the height of the cam by inserting more or thicker gaskets is going to load up the cam chain - the resultant lowering of compression ratio will provide more load but not necessarily overload, maybe not such a problem in well controlled low speed operation

- this isnt my style of riding tho, nor is redlining-i do a lot of distance and mountain riding where i require performance, power, balance and as much vibration reduction as possible..there are also better suited bikes for this, and although i have a lot of bikes at my disposal, like john i choose to ride XS's so have to make do the best with what i can
 
I too am very sure John wouldn't "consider" that he's lugging the engine; but when you're on your 3rd crank, your engine's saying otherwise. John's approach to the cam chain is to install used units that have "stretched" a bit; but chain stretch is a result of pin wear, which of course weakens the chain. I respect John's innovations in trying to achieve the performance results he wants, but there are issues to keep in mind before trying those mods.
 
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That’s entire bull Griz….2nd crank….the first coming to me hosed from the PO ….and the second crank came to me with a bad R/S bearing…had a slight whirling when I put it in….lets cut the crap on something you know noting about…….I don’t lug the bike……I ride it as I always did……mostly highway and expressway…..
 
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- you two want to have an arguement do it privately and get the fuck out of my thread
 
Alright guys... let's get this thread back on topic.

Might I remind you that this site isn't the place for drama:

If you have an issue with another member, deal with it in a professional and respectful manner. Try resolving your problems with the member through email or private messages first. If a thread turns into a bitch fight or name calling and character bashing, it will be deleted or edited (cleaned up). This site is not the place for grade-school drama.

Let's keep the comments to constructive contributions. :cheers:
 
Actually Griz and I are friends....well mabe we were anyway......sorry for the drama.........as for cam chain pin wear.......

Took one apart from a ratty running stock engine that stretched the chain pretty bad in 15K and only found a thousands or less wear on the pin………last year I put 8500 miles on my chain and don’t remember having to adjust it once………xsjohn
 
inxs I Just got one of these to put in my engine and were wondering what experience over the years you have running one of these in your engine?

Allso, did you ever come to the 750 rephase tryout?

Looking forward hearing about the results spanning last 5-6 years ;):thumbsup::bike:

- some time ago i installed one of these into my hack...im pretty happy with it and am considering trying one out on my 750 rephased motor-am pretty sure it will handle it

HSKS-1r.jpg

ZY049...for 1976 models on

- this is a self contained hydraulically damped cam chain adjuster...has an internal oil reservoir which is pressurised when you install it...and controls the chain oscillations reducing cam chain noise considerably and is supposed to reduce cam chain wear...it is fitted and adjusted just like the stock one, you just do it up slowly to allow the hydraulic damper to adjust until the pin is level with the end of the nut, even if the hydraulics fail it will work the same as the stock item on the spring only

zy048_01_jpg.jpg

ZY048...for 74-75 models only

- there is no unit for earlier models

file.jpg

ZY048 and the original for comparison

- as a bonus the better managed cam chain has a positive effect on cam-based ignition systems like my pamco

- costs 79 euros + postage from twins-inn ... for those that cant communicate in german, no problem, wolfgang knows a little english...best to contact him by email as he can be hard to get hold of... webmaster@Twins-Inn.de
 
I've made the exchange myself and I'll post a comparable image of the two camchain adjusters.

1C1AEC07-251E-47A0-97E8-2BB049DB7604_zpsvnw047af.jpg


The shorter one is the hydraulic one.

Allso my first initial experience is that it works perfect, I adjusted my valves afterwards and the engine sound like a sewing machine.

Rev sound more robust and there are no rattling sound whatsoever.

;) Allso as a side note there are no more smoke coming from the left exhaust.
 
vsop-dk,
Thanks for the review! While I've known about the product for several years, there is little user feedback for it.
 
I can definately recomend it, its robust and initial experience is that it works really well. Better than stock adjuster and this is self adjusting.

Only thing youll have to pay notice to is that engines from 77 and up has the two screws that tighten the adjuster and the cap. With the new hydraulic adjuster, the screw that tighten the original adjuster youll have to remove and only use the cap.
 
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