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Charging Problems! No spark! Stator?
- Thread starter BlackBandit
- Start date
Ok You still haven't mentioned the year and model of your bike. You mentioned points so I assum your bike is a 70-79.
If so and you want to hear it run you need a fully charged battery. Now with the battery just setting on the ground beside the bike hook a wire from the negitive to a place on the frame that will get a good connection. Use the black hal;f of a set of jumper cables and hook to a foot peg mount bolt.
On your bike you have two coils under the tank. Hook a wire from the positive battery to the coils. The side with the red/white wire from the harness. Now you will get spark when you kick the engine over, with gas in the carbs it will run.
Don't leave the hot wire hooked up very long without starting the engine.
If this gets it to run. you know the ignition works.
Unhook your jumper wires. Put the battery in the bike. Now you need to trace the power from the battery to the coils. Unplug the regulator. This will keep the voltage up.
At the coils you should get no less than .3 volts less than battery voltage. If so the key switch and the engine stop switch need cleaning. Also check for weak, dirty connections in the wires.
Once you get the ignition working you can procede to work on the charging system.
The stock system is what is called a feild excited alternator. This means it needs a good battery to charge the feild coils of the alternator to create the magnetism needed to excite the stator to make electricity.
So there is no way to run the stock system with a cap.
If you go up to the XS650 tech section, scroll down to the electrical section you will find a thread titled "Explination of the electrical systems on the XS650. It telss you what happens when you turn the key on and you start the bike. This will help you understand the charging system.
Now to test the stator,with the key off, you unplug the big connector just above and behind the engine. It has 3 white wires a green wire black wire, a blue wire.
The ones you need to check are the 3 whites, number them 1,2,3. Using and ohm meter on the lowest ohm setting you have. Touch the probes together, you will get a reading, this reading is the ohms of the lead wires and probes.
Remember this number. Now check the ohms of the three white wires, 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. Now you need to subtract the first reading from the second. If when you touched the probes and got, say .3 ohms, your maybe different. You subtract this from the 3 hite wire checks. Say you got 1.2 ohms on the wjite wires, subtract the .3 from the 1.2 you get .9 ohms.
The three whites should all read the same and be very close to .9 ohms.
Now put the meter on a high ohm scale and check from the 3 whites to the body of the stator, it should read infinity, no continuity.
If it checks ok this way then it's a good stator.
While your in there checking ohms. Remove the brushes, using the meter on it's loest setting check the ohms on the slip rings of the rotor. It might be hard to reach the one slipring, it hides behin d the frame of the stator. Just put your probe down through the outer brush hole, if it wont fit put a short piece of wire on the probe and use the wire to reach down inside the brush hole to test the rotor. It shoud read 5 ohms.
Now look at the brushes, are they over 3/8 inch long? If not get new ones.
Now with your meter set to DC volts, plug the stator plug back together,plug the regulator back in, turn the key on and check for voltage on the green brush wire. You should get very close the battery voltage. If not you need to check for voltage on the brown wire at the regulator. If the reg has battery voltage then your reg may be bad.
Put the brushes back in. If you have power to the coils and your stator and rotor test ok then with the brushes back in, start the bike. At idle you should get about 12-13.5 volts at the battery, rev it up to around 2500 rpms and you should get 14.5 volts at the battery, As you rev it higher it should never go higher than 14.5.
Don't worry to much about anything else until you get these things done. When you get these done and it running and charging, then you can start working on the turn signals.
Also read the links hmusket and ippytatoo posted.
Leo
If so and you want to hear it run you need a fully charged battery. Now with the battery just setting on the ground beside the bike hook a wire from the negitive to a place on the frame that will get a good connection. Use the black hal;f of a set of jumper cables and hook to a foot peg mount bolt.
On your bike you have two coils under the tank. Hook a wire from the positive battery to the coils. The side with the red/white wire from the harness. Now you will get spark when you kick the engine over, with gas in the carbs it will run.
Don't leave the hot wire hooked up very long without starting the engine.
If this gets it to run. you know the ignition works.
Unhook your jumper wires. Put the battery in the bike. Now you need to trace the power from the battery to the coils. Unplug the regulator. This will keep the voltage up.
At the coils you should get no less than .3 volts less than battery voltage. If so the key switch and the engine stop switch need cleaning. Also check for weak, dirty connections in the wires.
Once you get the ignition working you can procede to work on the charging system.
The stock system is what is called a feild excited alternator. This means it needs a good battery to charge the feild coils of the alternator to create the magnetism needed to excite the stator to make electricity.
So there is no way to run the stock system with a cap.
If you go up to the XS650 tech section, scroll down to the electrical section you will find a thread titled "Explination of the electrical systems on the XS650. It telss you what happens when you turn the key on and you start the bike. This will help you understand the charging system.
Now to test the stator,with the key off, you unplug the big connector just above and behind the engine. It has 3 white wires a green wire black wire, a blue wire.
The ones you need to check are the 3 whites, number them 1,2,3. Using and ohm meter on the lowest ohm setting you have. Touch the probes together, you will get a reading, this reading is the ohms of the lead wires and probes.
Remember this number. Now check the ohms of the three white wires, 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. Now you need to subtract the first reading from the second. If when you touched the probes and got, say .3 ohms, your maybe different. You subtract this from the 3 hite wire checks. Say you got 1.2 ohms on the wjite wires, subtract the .3 from the 1.2 you get .9 ohms.
The three whites should all read the same and be very close to .9 ohms.
Now put the meter on a high ohm scale and check from the 3 whites to the body of the stator, it should read infinity, no continuity.
If it checks ok this way then it's a good stator.
While your in there checking ohms. Remove the brushes, using the meter on it's loest setting check the ohms on the slip rings of the rotor. It might be hard to reach the one slipring, it hides behin d the frame of the stator. Just put your probe down through the outer brush hole, if it wont fit put a short piece of wire on the probe and use the wire to reach down inside the brush hole to test the rotor. It shoud read 5 ohms.
Now look at the brushes, are they over 3/8 inch long? If not get new ones.
Now with your meter set to DC volts, plug the stator plug back together,plug the regulator back in, turn the key on and check for voltage on the green brush wire. You should get very close the battery voltage. If not you need to check for voltage on the brown wire at the regulator. If the reg has battery voltage then your reg may be bad.
Put the brushes back in. If you have power to the coils and your stator and rotor test ok then with the brushes back in, start the bike. At idle you should get about 12-13.5 volts at the battery, rev it up to around 2500 rpms and you should get 14.5 volts at the battery, As you rev it higher it should never go higher than 14.5.
Don't worry to much about anything else until you get these things done. When you get these done and it running and charging, then you can start working on the turn signals.
Also read the links hmusket and ippytatoo posted.
Leo
Rexxis
Almost there...
OMG I wonder what BlackBandit of Utah is like in person.
Holy shit I almost hit the floor when I read this, BAHAHAHA.
Holy shit I almost hit the floor when I read this, BAHAHAHA.
Getmitchorditryn
XS650 Member
This thread hurts my brain
