cleaning up frame welds?

[kev93]

also, whats the best filler to use to mold it?

 

[member3480]

I start with 60 grid and work up and its your bike and i like clean looking frames and what you did already on the brace is very cool but that small pipe does nothing for support on back bone. Its there for coils to be mounted and for stock electronics. Not tied into neck and only welded to front down tubes not the neck. If you have no place for coils leave it just clean it up. I have done over 25 of these frames and a hundred more of others and would never tell you to do something UNSAFE on your frame if i have not rode one like i am saying and i ride in big city's with pot holes and never had one crack or twist. Sorry to disagree with Gary but i am 59 years old and been building since i was 17 and i like the clean style not with all the extra stock stuff. I just use body bondo.

 

[hotrdd]

So I have a large air compressor and a die grinder but the grinding "bits" that I have for it are crap. What should I look for when I buying these? And what should I expect, maybe they are suppose to be extremely slow and tedious.

 

[XSLeo]

If the grinder make you go slow then you won't get to agressive and take off to much. It's easier to go slow and get it right than to go to fast, take to much, weld it back up and gring some more.
Leo

 

[Rev D]

As far as die grinding bits go you pretty much get what you pay for. You can buy super expensive ones that will go faster but in reality, welds are super high strength and will always take a crapload of work to diegrind them. My weapon of choice is a pistol (high speed) grinder with a worn stone on it. It's aggressive but controllable and easier to keep on a high spot in my opinion. It will eat your hand, face, or tubes for breakfast too though so be careful if you try one out.

 

[kev93]

I am thinking of selling my frame and some parts.

 

[mouser]

I've always been fussy with frames and spend a lot of time cleaning them up. I start with a 4 1/2" disc grinder then a disc sander then braze to fill the defects. I then use rotary files and a flap sander and then a spot of bondo to finish. If I want to powder coat I would skip the bondo and use lead or silver solder. I like to clean up all the drop forged parts to remove cast marks like the triple trees etc. I feel the effort of cleaning up the frame is worth it in the end. I'm guessing 30 hours.
I would suggest a little practice before taking a grinder to the frame. It takes a very light touch to knock off the high spots of the welds without touching the frame tubes. Protect your eyes!

 

[RFLIVES]

I've always been fussy with frames and spend a lot of time cleaning them up. I start with a 4 1/2" disc grinder then a disc sander then braze to fill the defects. I then use rotary files and a flap sander and then a spot of bondo to finish. If I want to powder coat I would skip the bondo and use lead or silver solder. I like to clean up all the drop forged parts to remove cast marks like the triple trees etc. I feel the effort of cleaning up the frame is worth it in the end. I'm guessing 30 hours.
I would suggest a little practice before taking a grinder to the frame. It takes a very light touch to knock off the high spots of the welds without touching the frame tubes. Protect your eyes!

I'm really Interested to see how this one turns out any updated pictures?

 

[1974jh5]

I agree with kopcicle, not so much from a strength standpoint as an aesthetics one. Lead or braze won't crack in a stressed area like bondo will.

I learned pretty quickly on my Jensen Healey restoration that leading is not difficult and I got some 'no lead lead' sticks from Eastwood so I wouldn't have to worry about lead fumes or lead dust. Brazing will do the same thing but IMHO takes a little more skill and practice, mostly due to the higher temps involved and cleaning off the flux afterwards.

 

[kev93]

That is some beautiful work mouser.