Discussion in 'The Garage' started by I am Carbon, Dec 8, 2011.
I had to do a small mod to make the job easier
Dude, kudo's on the vids...keepem coming!
I've read about the procedure many times but I wouldn't be afraid to do one myself now. Thanks again and keep em coming. Think we will be seeing you dismantle a lower end?
i will when i need to
I started her up and no leak
Yup, pretty much the way I did mine, smoothing that edge with a dremel tool.
Also, once I get that seal out, I check the rod for play. If I get some wiggle, I replace the bushing too. Just like it says on MikesXS with a drill, cleaning out the hole with a Que-Tip, being very careful not to push any metal bits inside.
Wow, another great video!
Really helps people out.
I think you should get a Gold Star for all the vids.
There's a coupe out there
Looks like the real trick is putting it together upside down, so that the shifters line up.
I like Carbon's vids, very detailed...
I've watched those videos too. I wish they had more info.
I know it is easer to jump into the water if you know whats in there
How hard is it to get that bushing out?
I just replaced the bushing on mine. A new bushing is 8 mm ID, a worn one a bit more.
I used a 3/8 UNF tap, and tapped the bushing all the way (approx 10 mm long)
Then I have a sliding hammer with an 8" Vise-Grip attached. Grip the tap with the Vise-Grip, and pull the bushing out. This is real easy, all done in 5 minutes! Just make sure to clean out all swarf and dirt before reassembling!
I also have a tip regarding deburring sharp edges. In the video he used a Dremel tool.
I prefer a "Noga Tool", just a plastic handle with a swivelling, replaceable blade. This costs between 5 and 10 USD in Norway. Pipe fitters really like these, great for deburring the inside of hydraulic pipes etc.
@ I am carbon
Why did you leave the push rod and drive sprocket in/on during the procedure?
I don't know why I just did.it was the first time for me. maybe I was scared
Scared? I doubt that was it.
You will find it easier with them out/off.
A piece of rag stuffed between the bushing boss and the case then covered with grease will catch all the debris and pull it out with the rag when you are done.
Ok, so here's yet another / different way to do it...
I was able to get the bushing out by tapping it 3/8" (removal and cleaning out the minor shavings a few times before going in all the way) and inserting a 3/8"x8" bolt. I slipped a large socket on to the bolt(redneck slide hammer). And, with two little slaps, out comes the bushing. Took 5 minutes total and very little shavings to speak of.
So, with that said, I put a shop vacuum up to the hole to clean up any remaining shavings. And, I said to myself. "Self". Instead of trying to pull out a stubborn rod(which already didn't come out with a magnet), why not let the shop vac pull it out? 2 seconds of suction pulled both the rod and the remaining ball bearing out as easy as can be.
Note to self: Clean out the shop vac before attempting this again. It took more time to find the ball bearing in the bottom than it did to do the entire afore mentioned procedure....
Sucked my own rod and got a happy ending... (But, I almost lost a ball in the process).
Thanks again for all of the help!
So if the back of my shirt has oil splattered on it and my chain is extremely oiled is that a good indication I need to replace the clutch seal rod?
your welcome Man ,Ed
you will have to pull off the cover and take a peek.the seal will go bad befor the rod.
but you will have to do a visual inspection to find out, Ed
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