Clutch rod seal leaking?? pics

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triniriderz

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Had the bike running this afternoon and started to see a small oil leak coming from behind the LHS engine case..

Am I correct to think it will need a new clutch rod seal??

IMG_6727.jpg
 
could be either, if the sprocket isn't down tight it will leak... I pack that bushing that goes into the seal over the output shaft with thick grease
 
Last edited:
Looks like it's both, which is not a surprise. You'll need an pneumatic wrench for the primary drive.
 
petesxs said:
Looks like it's both, which is not a surprise. You'll need an pneumatic wrench for the primary drive.
Click to expand...

Pete, I'll have to respectfully disagree. A large crescent wrench or channel locks will do the trick. Once you flatten out the locking washer you can use the rear brake as a "stop" for the wheel. Put the bike in a gear (1st or 2nd is fine). It's a tad bit awkward but you can step on the rear brake and then loosen the large nut that secures the primary drive sprocket. A second person will make it easier but I've done it myself before...twice on my '83.

Granted, an impact wrench will make it easier but if you don't have one or if you don't have the correct socket then the 'ol metric crescent wrench will do the job.
 
I tend to use the "in 1st gear method"

To be honest front sprocket remaval was a breeze on this bike, the bolt at the moment is finger tight with a good layer of copper grease :bike:..
 
Be aware that the countershaft nut in your photo in on backwards. The side with the cut-out should face in so it fits over the splines on the shaft. Oil can leak out from between the shaft and sleeve besides just out the seal. That's why the nut needs to be so tight (about 90 ft/lbs). You need to seal the sprocket against the sleeve and the sleeve against the inner race of a bearing inside the motor. I add some Yamabond to the back side of the sprocket where it contacts the sleeve and under the lock washer.
 
5twins said:
Be aware that the countershaft nut in your photo in on backwards. The side with the cut-out should face in so it fits over the splines on the shaft. Oil can leak out from between the shaft and sleeve besides just out the seal. That's why the nut needs to be so tight (about 90 ft/lbs). You need to seal the sprocket against the sleeve and the sleeve against the inner race of a bearing inside the motor. I add some Yamabond to the back side of the sprocket where it contacts the sleeve and under the lock washer.
Click to expand...

Yeah did know that, I just put it on as I have a tendancy to loose things like that If they are not put back on..

I may get a new front sprocket get it on and fire her up see what the situation is then..

One thing how tight should the seal be around the Rod shaft??
 
The seal around the rod should be tight enough so oil won't leak out. :laugh:
 
On Mike's there is a good desciption of how to replace the seal and the bushing behind the seal. Not hard to do. If the bushing behind the seal is bad the new seal won't last long.
 
Your red pushrod seal appears to be the original (replacements are black) so it probably does need replacing. If you have the 2 piece pushrod assembly then the bushing is probably worn as well. Along with seal and bushing replacement, switch to the long 1 piece pushrod. It moves side to side less so will seal better and wear the bushing less.
 
5twins said:
Your red pushrod seal appears to be the original (replacements are black)
Click to expand...

Interesting. I've never seen a picture of one that wasn't black. I thought the red in the picture was sealer gooped on.
 
Mine doesn't leak but I need to fix it anyway because I can tell by the way it flops around the bushing is either gone or real worn out.
 
Pics looks like it may be the countershaft seal, I dont see an oil trail under the pushrod. May as well replace them both while you are in there, easy and cheap insurance.
 
excuse my ignorance , but , can both seals be replaced by just removing the cover ? and can a new clutch rod be done just as easily ? and i'm guessing the bushing ( clutch rod ) be an easy job or does the case have to be broken open ?
 
Th clutch rod seal is MEANT to be replaced from the other side of the casing....Sucks I know. However on my sidecar VMX racer I have "modded" the case so I can knock it in from the outside, coz I'll be stuffed if I'm gonna split the case after a half dozen races just to fix that leak!!

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Maybe you need these


Crankcase; The three oil seals on the left side of the crankcase are Yamaha-specific, cost plenty, and are almost impossible to change unless the cases are split. Lance Stewart at Billroy Engineering makes adapters which allow easy fitment of industry-standard seals. Adapters for seal kits, left is the open case set, right is the closed case set

http://www.xs650.org.au/improving.htm
 

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