Critique My Wiring (Help Needed)

[YOURADHERE]

I know, search, and I have and have ended up even more confused. I think I have this correct but I'm looking for confirmation as well as have a few questions.

The specs:
72 XS650
Pamco Ignition
Using 4 pole ignition switch

Previous owner had wired it but alot was half-assed so I decided to just start over and went back to electric start(currently kick only). I'll also be adding in a brake light switch(not shown in my current diagram).


First, here's a diagram that I found on the net that I've followed loosely and I have a couple questions when referencing it.




Here's my wiring as it currently sits. I figured I'd stop, draw up this diagram and then proceed once I have my questions solved.







Question 1: The wiring for my stator has a yellow wire that was capped off on it's own, not connected to anything. From my understanding it should stay this way. Correct?

Question 2: The 6 pin connector from my stator has a blue wire that is not connected to it(shown in my diagram) as well as a blue wire coming out of my regulator that also is not connected to anything. Where/what do these connect to?

Question 3: My coil has a blue wire and a black wire coming out of it. I'm assuming the black is negative, blue is positive. Do I have this hooked up correctly?


Any other tips/corrects/revisions? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Ref question #2 - If using stock stator/rotor harness, that blue wire is probably the neutral light switch. Don't know what it is on the regulator...

 

[DogBunny]

#1, yes, leave yellow wire capped.

Add a large gauge, un-fused wire going directly from the battery positive to the big terminal on the solenoid. Same size wire goes from other large solenoid terminal to the starter.

 

[retroLS1]

The only thing I can spot... not sure if it matters, but I just ran into this exact issue, is your power to your Pamco should be fed into the red wire, and the green wire left alone. According to Pamco's site that's how it should go, but I'm not sure if it could be reversed. I haven't been able to start my bike and I think that's why (I had them reversed by accident)

 

[ANLAF]

From the stator, three whites into three yellows, green should go into green, and the black (the colour on pre-79 models) into brown on the reg/rectifier. There are a couple of other small errors in there, too.

I have been asked to draw out my wiring diagram, but I am pretty dumb with technology. Tell me what programme you used to put your diagram together, and I can get mine posted, which should be of help to you.

Anlaf

 

[pamcopete]

#3

The blue and black wires use Honda convention, meaning that the black wire is positive and the blue is negative. In any event, it doesn't really matter with a dual output coil.

But, even though it doesn't matter, your diagram is still wrong. The wire from the fuse should go to the red wire on the PAMCO and one of the wires from the coil, like the black wire as shown.

Not sure which regulator you are using, but if it is a stock XS650 reg / rect, then you are missing the brown wire which should go in place of the red wire as shown. The red wire goes to battery. It's important that you are able to disconnect both sources of power (battery and alternator) with the key switch else the engine will continue to run when you turn it off.

I also think that you will regret having the start function in the ignition switch the first time you stall the engine at a busy intersection with a beer truck heading towards you, horn blowing. Beer trucks don't stop for nothing. If you take your left hand off the grip to operate the key start and the bike is still in gear, the engine will start and propel you right in the path of the beer truck. If you take the time to put it in neutral before trying to start, too late...just hope that you like Budweiser because you will be swimming in it. (also, without the neutral light, you won't know if you are in neutral or not )

If you take your hand off of the right grip to start the engine, then you will not be able to operate the throttle, so maybe the beer truck is carrying your favorite Coors Lite because you are about to get a kisser full of it which you can enjoy on your way to the hospital...

 

[YOURADHERE]

From the stator, three whites into three yellows, green should go into green, and the black (the colour on pre-79 models) into brown on the reg/rectifier. There are a couple of other small errors in there, too.

I have been asked to draw out my wiring diagram, but I am pretty dumb with technology. Tell me what programme you used to put your diagram together, and I can get mine posted, which should be of help to you.

Anlaf

I just used Microsoft Paint is all. I'll redraw the diagram using the corrections mentioned, standby for more critiquing.

 

[YOURADHERE]

#3

The blue and black wires use Honda convention, meaning that the black wire is positive and the blue is negative. In any event, it doesn't really matter with a dual output coil.

But, even though it doesn't matter, your diagram is still wrong. The wire from the fuse should go to the red wire on the PAMCO and one of the wires from the coil, like the black wire as shown.

Not sure which regulator you are using, but if it is a stock XS650 reg / rect, then you are missing the brown wire which should go in place of the red wire as shown. The red wire goes to battery. It's important that you are able to disconnect both sources of power (battery and alternator) with the key switch else the engine will continue to run when you turn it off.

I also think that you will regret having the start function in the ignition switch the first time you stall the engine at a busy intersection with a beer truck heading towards you, horn blowing. Beer trucks don't stop for nothing. If you take your left hand off the grip to operate the key start and the bike is still in gear, the engine will start and propel you right in the path of the beer truck. If you take the time to put it in neutral before trying to start, too late...just hope that you like Budweiser because you will be swimming in it. (also, without the neutral light, you won't know if you are in neutral or not )

If you take your hand off of the right grip to start the engine, then you will not be able to operate the throttle, so maybe the beer truck is carrying your favorite Coors Lite because you are about to get a kisser full of it which you can enjoy on your way to the hospital...

Blue = Negative, Black = positive, that's stange.

I'll make the changes regarding the pamco that you mentioned, I'll redraw the diagram now.

Unsure if my regulator is stock or not. The model number on the back side of it is posted in the diagram if that means anything. The previous owner installed the Pamco but the wiring was a mess. Everything, regardless if it was positive or negative, he used black wiring for. Made for mass confusion. Either way the only wires coming out of my regular are 3 yellows, an orange, green, and blue. However there is a spot on the regulator where it appears a wiring may have been broken off inside of it, perhaps the missing brown wire. So do I perhaps need to look into getting a whole new regulator?

You had me at beer truck coming my way.

What I'm learning is there's alot of crap information on the net when it comes to proper wiring. I'll change up my diagram and post the revised version for critiquing again.

 

[YOURADHERE]

Redone with corrections to the Pamco from Pete and corrections to the starting system as posted DogBunny.

Still curious about 2 things.

1) the missing brown wire, guess I'll have to order a whole new regulator.

2) Also regarding ANLAF's correction as well. He references the missing brown wire(again, assuming I'll just have to get a new regulator) but also mentions the wiring coming from my stator to regulator. I've drawn it as shown. The green to orange, black to green connection is how they line up via the 6 pin connector. Do I need to change this?

 

[retiredgentleman]

Why don't you just follow a simple diagram like this one. Yes, lots of crap wiring diagrams floating around on the web.

Forget about using the starting from the key switch, and use a push button start next to the throttle.

Don't be spending $100 + for combined rec/reg. Better to go with separate rectifier and separate regulator. NOS automotive regulators such as the VR-115 are available and don't cost much. 3 phase rectifiers are also inexpensive, or use 2 bridge rectifiers. Total cost probably $30 to $40 dollars.

 

[YOURADHERE]

I found the VR115 on Autozone's website but it appears to have 4 wires, not 3. From the pic they appear to be red, green, yellow and black. Could you possibly point me in the right direction for the proper regulator and rectifier?

Here's the link LINK


Also, I did some searching on the model # of what I currently have(TMR1003BU) and noticed that none of the ones pictured appeared to have a brown wire.


Like so:

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Stock `72 rotors were grounded with a regulated power, later models, like RetiredGentleman's, were powered, with a regulated ground. Each takes different regulator and wiring, but you can upgrade to the newer type by floating/isolating the rotor brushes with nylon screws. Need to figure out which rotor/brush style you have. More detail if you do forum search "nylon", and look for the alt/reg threads...

 

[retiredgentleman]

I'm assuming you are using a stock alternator for your years bike.

The 1970 to 1979 XS650's all used the same charging wiring. The right (inner) brush is grounded, while the left (outer) brush receives a varible + voltage from the voltage regulator. No nylon screws are used on this configuration.

Yes, a Wells VR727 cross references to the Standard VR-115 that I use. They were used on Jeeps 72 to 75, and American Motors 71 to 74. They come with 4 wires,orange,yellow,green and black. You cut the 4 pin connector off and re-wire it to a 3 pin connector.
Regulator....................... XS650 harness
orange & yellow.................brown (load side of ignition switch)
green...............................green (left outer brush)
black................................common black wire in harness or bare metal on frame.

You have to do the search for a VR-115 and for a 3 phase rectifier (or 2 bridge rectifiers). I can only recommend the VR-115, because I know it works very well on my bike. A VR727 should be the same but I have no experience with that item.

 

[YOURADHERE]

I'm not at the shop currently but I'll check out the rotor for any markings/names/numbers etc a little later. I'll do a little research on the nylon screws as well.

 

[pamcopete]

youradhere,

The red wire from the reg / rect goes to the battery.

 

[YOURADHERE]

Direct to the battery? Would that make for a draw on the battery?

 

[pamcopete]

YOURADHERE,

I suggest that you get a manual for your bike and learn how the charging system works.

 

[ANLAF]

Pamcopete is right, it is always best to get the hang of the basics - some light bedside reading is advised (manual, and some of the great threads).

SUBxs650 posted this wiring diagram, which I think is one of the simplest. It's a complete diagram, and the only hting you would have to make sure (it's a custom set-up) is that you have some facility to avoid grounding the power - this can happen at the brushes if you are on the old rotor/stator set-up, but not if you put in PMA and PAMCO.

Good luck, you'll get there.

Anlaf

 

[YOURADHERE]

I appreciate all the help from everyone so far and thanks for being patient with my questions. I'll pull out my manual and go over it thoroughly.

 

[ANLAF]

It's always good to have some basic knowledge as a platform, then it is easier for the guys can help where they can.

Anlaf