I think Bob's right on this one Gary. And if it has permeated the glass, not sure I'd ever trust a repair bond. If it were me, I'd be fabin' an odd shaped aluminum tank to stick up in there.
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'Cuz I'm not in enough trouble already
- Thread starter gggGary
- Start date
Was just lookin' at your Caswell link Gary. Here's a quote from the description....
"This Epoxy has much better bond strength than single component products, with strengths of up to 3000 PSI, and this higher strength reduces the need for a clinically clean surface, as the epoxy actually prefers to bond to a rough rusty surface."
Anyone making an asinine claim like that just lost me....
"This Epoxy has much better bond strength than single component products, with strengths of up to 3000 PSI, and this higher strength reduces the need for a clinically clean surface, as the epoxy actually prefers to bond to a rough rusty surface."
Anyone making an asinine claim like that just lost me....
If you have insomnia, Google "glass transition"...
So you are saying I could cut the bottom out of the tank with a hot knife?
It appears there is an aluminum? plate with threaded taps welded on that supports the two solinoids. I suspect that's why the cracking in the corners there. Pretty much no matter what, that has to be opened replaced.
Haven't gone ape on it but tank appears to be solid, stiff not softened by the invasion of ethanol/gasoline. Paint shows evidence of "telegraphing", the surface kinda looks like the fibergalss strands.
There are aftermarket replacements available also fiberglass with "ethanol resistant" lining and all factory taps installed. about $7-800 in paint ready condition, mounting holes would need to be located and drilled. Reports are they are thinner than the stock tank which seems "substantial".
Thanks for following along the buell forums are kinda dead compared to here......
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Doing that took me here; https://pslc.ws/macrog/tg.htm
While reading that, this popped out at me "beta-naphthoyl salicylate" as a plasticizer, note that winter green oil is also a salicylate...
"Have you ever smelled "that new car smell" in some friend's new car? It's not something I smell too often on the money I make, but that smell is the plasticizer evaporating from the plastic parts on the inside of your car. After many years, if enough of it evaporates, your dashboard will no longer be plasticized. The Tg of the polymers in your dashboard will rise above room temperature, and the dashboard will become brittle and crack."
I’ve been thinking a lot about this gas tank. I think you’ve got nothing to lose by attempting a repair. It would be easier than fabbing a hidden metal tank. The tank is already damaged, replacements have got to be very expensive. I remember my first fiberglass experience, working in a fleet garage. They brought me an International Harvester truck with a fiberglass tilt front end that had been smashed by a forklift in a lumber yard. It had not only been crushed, it had large chunks missing. I asked my boss why they didn’t just buy another hood and he told me a new one cost $9000 back in the 70’s , at my wages back then, that translated to about 5 months worth of work. Haha! 
In the end it only took me a couple of weeks, and with fresh paint, it looked like new. I wound up repairing three more the same way, plus the owners boat once.
You had mentioned you were thinking about cutting out the bottom of the tank, and that is just the way I’d go about it. If you look at the bottom it appears the tank was cast in two pieces and you can see where the edges were joined , here I marked it with a red line. If I were doing this repair I would cut about 1” inboard of the joint on or about where I have marked a green line. Once you have the tank opened up, you can finish removing all that bad sealer.
Clean everything as best you can, then I would sand the entire inside surface to provide a fresh surface to apply resin to. You could use a very aggressive sandpaper or even some sort of grinder to make quick work of it, because you’re going to go over all of it with fresh sealer. I was doing some research into fuel resistant resins and there are some promising products out there.
I would be tempted to, on the inside,
1. Clean
2. Sand
3. Fresh fuel resistant resin to the entire interior surface
4. Grind all around those fuel taps and reinforce area around them with additional glass mat and resin
On the underside of the tank,
1. Clean
2. Sand at least a 3” wide path along the cut line, so you could lay down a 3” wide glass repair
3. Around your fuel outlets and cracks, use a grinding stone and dig out the edges of those cracks, so you can fill with fresh glass and resin, build up heavier around those fuel taps, the nice part is all this is hidden, so no need to sand and paint. It’s all just glass repair.
I found this product on eBay, it looks promising,
https://www.ebay.com/itm/EPOXY-RESI...a:g:pQkAAOSwRYBZjgx7:sc:UPSGround!85387!US!-1
Here are some interesting articles,
https://www.fibreglast.com/product/the-fundamentals-of-fiberglass/Learning_Center
https://www.boatdesign.net/threads/which-resin-to-build-ethanol-safe-gasoline-tanks.44720/
http://www.boatus.com/seaworthy/fueltest.asp
I know this is all unsolicited advice, take it for what it’s worth, me filling idle time on an interesting puzzle.
In the end, your biggest cost would be your time. What do you have to lose?
In the end it only took me a couple of weeks, and with fresh paint, it looked like new. I wound up repairing three more the same way, plus the owners boat once.You had mentioned you were thinking about cutting out the bottom of the tank, and that is just the way I’d go about it. If you look at the bottom it appears the tank was cast in two pieces and you can see where the edges were joined , here I marked it with a red line. If I were doing this repair I would cut about 1” inboard of the joint on or about where I have marked a green line. Once you have the tank opened up, you can finish removing all that bad sealer.
Clean everything as best you can, then I would sand the entire inside surface to provide a fresh surface to apply resin to. You could use a very aggressive sandpaper or even some sort of grinder to make quick work of it, because you’re going to go over all of it with fresh sealer. I was doing some research into fuel resistant resins and there are some promising products out there.
I would be tempted to, on the inside,
1. Clean
2. Sand
3. Fresh fuel resistant resin to the entire interior surface
4. Grind all around those fuel taps and reinforce area around them with additional glass mat and resin
On the underside of the tank,
1. Clean
2. Sand at least a 3” wide path along the cut line, so you could lay down a 3” wide glass repair
3. Around your fuel outlets and cracks, use a grinding stone and dig out the edges of those cracks, so you can fill with fresh glass and resin, build up heavier around those fuel taps, the nice part is all this is hidden, so no need to sand and paint. It’s all just glass repair.
I found this product on eBay, it looks promising,
https://www.ebay.com/itm/EPOXY-RESI...a:g:pQkAAOSwRYBZjgx7:sc:UPSGround!85387!US!-1
Here are some interesting articles,
https://www.fibreglast.com/product/the-fundamentals-of-fiberglass/Learning_Center
https://www.boatdesign.net/threads/which-resin-to-build-ethanol-safe-gasoline-tanks.44720/
http://www.boatus.com/seaworthy/fueltest.asp
I know this is all unsolicited advice, take it for what it’s worth, me filling idle time on an interesting puzzle.
In the end, your biggest cost would be your time. What do you have to lose?
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Tank is on the way let me know when you are done, I will reimburse you for materials used.
LOL just kidding, thanks for advice / reinforcement of my thoughts!
LOL just kidding, thanks for advice / reinforcement of my thoughts!
Along with Bob's experience Gary, I used to build composite airplanes. So here's your tech support... Bob-N-Jims composite consulting service. 
Start a thread, post lots of pics. Go for it buddy!!
Start a thread, post lots of pics. Go for it buddy!!
Along with Bob's experience Gary, I used to build composite airplanes. So here's your tech support... Bob-N-Jims composite consulting service.
Start a thread, post lots of pics. Go for it buddy!!
Ha! Well no one ever had to try and fly one of my truck hoods, I dare say your work was held to a higher standard!
idle time? You've got a XS2 to get sorted out.
Yeah... it was. But the concepts and applications are still the same.I dare say your work was held to a higher standard!
First up bobba-jim; best tool to cut out the bottom? My inclination is to cut right at the "seam".
I like a 1/16" cutting wheel on a 90° die grinder. Put up a closeup of the seam.
Good dust mask is essential for cuttin'
Hi Guys,
these days I'm old and stupid but back when I was young and dumb I went broke on weekends building Lazy E sailboats in FRP.
One thing I did learn while working with FRP:-
DO NOT BREATHE IN OR HAVE SKIN CONTACT WITH THAT SHIT!!!!
THE SOLVENTS AND RESIN FUMES ARE CARCINOGENS AND BREATHING IN THE SANDING DUST IS LIKE BREATHING IN RAZOR BLADES!!!
At minimum wear a full face breathing mask with filters rated for dust + organics, rubber gloves & long sleeves at minimum but a Tyvek suit is better.
these days I'm old and stupid but back when I was young and dumb I went broke on weekends building Lazy E sailboats in FRP.
One thing I did learn while working with FRP:-
DO NOT BREATHE IN OR HAVE SKIN CONTACT WITH THAT SHIT!!!!
THE SOLVENTS AND RESIN FUMES ARE CARCINOGENS AND BREATHING IN THE SANDING DUST IS LIKE BREATHING IN RAZOR BLADES!!!
At minimum wear a full face breathing mask with filters rated for dust + organics, rubber gloves & long sleeves at minimum but a Tyvek suit is better.
