Engine heating up and shutting down

[suntosh]

So the bike rides fine and idles fine for a long time. But after just riding for a like 10 miles it shuts down . I have to wait for it to cool down and then start it. This is rinse and repeat.

What gives ?

 

[jpdevol]

It could be a number of things, as initial guesses (without more info):

• Fuel Cap not venting properly causing fuel starvation (sitting temp. corrects it)
• Ignition coil begining to break down (this is heat related)
• XS Charge Ignition -if so equipped (it's a feature of it)
• Generally poor wiring connections producing enough voltage drop to temp. lose spark (unusual but happens)

 

[suntosh]

There is an electrical problem. If I keep the bike on without starting the bike, the battery drains super fast. The electric starter is not working prolly burnt.

If I turn on the ignition, I have to kick start and keep the engine running in order for it not to drain the battery. How hard is it to replace the ignition ?

https://tcbros.com/products/boyer-b...tmPHCNka4zmjIpjgnKfbDm4JRBbvDulBoCxiwQAvD_BwE - worthy ?

 

[jpdevol]

If you have the original TCI, it's hard to beat. First step is to fully charge battery 12.6-12.8 VDC and have it load tested. Next is to verify the charging system - looking for 14.5VDC @ battery terminals @2500rpm. Then on to checking for voltage at the ignition coil + (voltage drop) to be within .5VDC of battery voltage at rest.

I suspect there will be things along the way - checking above - that will indicate a problem and perhaps further investigation

 

[suntosh]

If you have the original TCI, it's hard to beat. First step is to fully charge battery 12.6-12.8 VDC and have it load tested. Next is to verify the charging system - looking for 14.5VDC @ battery terminals @2500rpm. Then on to checking for voltage at the ignition coil + (voltage drop) to be within .5VDC of battery voltage at rest.

I suspect there will be things along the way - checking above - that will indicate a problem and perhaps further investigation

The battery and the strator were just replaced (new) , my mechanic said that the ignition needs to be replaced but threw in the towel saying, he will no more work on the bike.

 

[jpdevol]

Just between you and me, your "mechanic" didn't know what he was doing anyway.

Stator! - he replaced the @#%^ stator??? Why? Did he give you the old one? Pics of old & new stator please. And if ya can find a multi meter, we can check those (both) too

 

[suntosh]

Just between you and me, your "mechanic" didn't know what he was doing anyway.

I knew it but I thought he knew better than me. The engine and the bike is really in a great condition at this point I am the crossroads of getting my hands dirty to fix the electrical issue or get rid of the bike. For someone who is a noob like me how many hours are we looking at if I went the route of picking up the wrench myself.

 

[jpdevol]

I knew it but I thought he knew better than me. The engine and the bike is really in a great condition at this point I am the crossroads of getting my hands dirty to fix the electrical issue or get rid of the bike. For someone who is a noob like me how many hours are we looking at if I went the route of picking up the wrench myself.

Depends on what we find.....perhaps 15min or maybe 2 hours at most. First things first though is a fully charged, load-tested battery & a multimeter. Local auto parts store.........

 

[suntosh]

I'll do the idle test and keep you posted.

 

[suntosh]

Just between you and me, your "mechanic" didn't know what he was doing anyway.

Stator! - he replaced the @#%^ stator??? Why? Did he give you the old one? Pics of old & new stator please. And if ya can find a multi meter, we can check those (both) too

No he did not and I knew stator was'nt the problem but still let him do it in the hope that he will go down the rabbit hole and find the problem but the moron gave up.

 

[suntosh]

Alright I am back to working on my bike and I have decided to take things in my own hand.

- I just charged my battery fully and I am about to test with high RPMs to see I get that gain.
- The ignition coil is hidden beneath the tank and has an orange wire flowing from it - How do I test the coil using the Multimeter. ??,

Also note my previous mechanic removed the regulator rectifier. I tested it to be working okay based on the readings I got on the Multimeter. Red, Green and Black with yellows readings were consistent.

Also since the problem is with the charging system , should I be removing the tank ?

 

[Kevin Werner]

Let me offer, it is nice to know what your charging system is doing, weak battery equals not running. I attach a $10 voltmeter connect to a positive wire in the headlight shell. I know my charging system is or isn't working.

 

[suntosh]

This is great but It does not help me in my current situation. I would set it up for the future. Could you tell me where did you buy (link) and the installation. details

 

[Kevin Werner]

This is great but It does not help me in my current situation. I would set it up for the future. Could you tell me where did you buy (link) and the installation. details

Small digital voltmeter are available on line ~$10 or less. I used velcro tape to mount to the upper tree. I ran the power into one of the headlight shell apertures and found a hot and a ground. Hot is after the key switch. One of my bikes has a .5v loss through the switch, the other has has less than .25v loss. This is a 'reference" indication. Start up has the meter at 12 or so volts, drive away to 2000-2500 rpm and it jumps to 19.9 or 14.3v. With these old charging systems it is nice to know, on the road, when you might have a problem.

 

[suntosh]

I am a noob I'd have to figure where are the hot and ground that go from the switch to the headlight and whatnot,.... Hopefully at the end I'd figure it out.

 

[Kevin Werner]

I am a noob I'd have to figure where are the hot and ground that go from the switch to the headlight and whatnot,.... Hopefully at the end I'd figure it out.

Go to the "tech " section at the top of the page. In the electrical you will find the schematics for all the years. For me, "brown" wires in the headlight shell, and everywhere else, are the system +12v after the key switch. The little meter mounts on velcro or two sided tape and are very light. So they mostly don't come adrift. My meter has read weird values after trailering through the rain (26.7v) but returned to reliable number when dried out. $10 piece of insurance.

 

[Kevin Werner]

This is great but It does not help me in my current situation. I would set it up for the future. Could you tell me where did you buy (link) and the installation. details

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3839002090...+69uaURSN0fCHa/BC4rR8ygFLe|tkp:Bk9SR_q7zpjcYg

Find your year in the schematics in this "Tech" section link. Find the +12VDC wire color coming from the ignition switch. All wires that color will be "Switched +12VDC". Find one of those wires in the headlight shell for the meter + and any good ground and you have a good indication of what your charging system is doing at all times.

https://www.xs650.com/attachments/7...-colour-aaaaa-g-text-15-a1-robinc-jpg.136328/

 

[jpdevol]

https://www.xs650.com/threads/10561

 

[suntosh]

I did the battery test. At 2500 RPM it barely crosses 13 volts. I fully charged the battery to 12.7 before testing. and the battery holds the charge overnight so the battery is good.

The battery loses charge to 12.2 as soon as I on the ignition and idle the bike but as soon as turn the bike off/off ignition , the battery's charge actually comes back between 12.6 - 12.7 . Is the coil faulty ? Any clues what to do next

I read the guide but I think the battery on its own is capable of holding charge and lighting a bulb for 20 minutes. If the battery is put through the charging system, it drains the battery superfast.

FYI- The regulator/rectifier were removed but I dont think there is a problem with them. I did a diode test on it. My MM is Fluke.

 

[robtattoo]

I may be well wide of the mark here. Bike electrics, to me, are essentially witchcraft.

Try disconnecting your head & tail lights. Pull the round, center cover off your left hand engine casing. Now remove the bushings from the rotor plate. That disconnects & isolates your charging system & you won't be getting any draw from the lights.

I did the same thing, after advice here, when my rotor shat itself miles from help & that was enough to let me ride the rest of the way on a charged battery. The only thing drawing any current at that point is the ignition circuit.

It could be that you're in a similar rotor situation. The bike rides great until the battery drops below 11.5v, then dies. Let it sit for an hour or so & it absorbs just enough to get back to 12 & start the bike again.
I'm probably way off, but it sounds very similar to what happened to me.