engine rattle ??

[spitfire]

hi
started using the bike and its fun but i can detect a constant tinny sounding rattle/clatter coming from the engine and wonder what the noise is and can i fix it or is it just normal engine noise from the xs

 

[Pandorasglocks]

Have you adjusted your cam chain tensioner and valve clearences?

 

[Inked Monkey]

Yeah my motor was doing that too. Adjust the chain and valves and it should go away.

 

[spitfire]

no, i hav'nt done either. are they easy to do ?

 

[inxs]

- very...read the first part of this or your manual

 

[spitfire]

i have read that its either done with the engine running or engine off. which choice is best/easiest.

 

[spitfire]

working on it now but its not quite so straightforward.

i have aligned the T mark with the rotor to find TDC and then adjusted the tensioner plunger with the outer adjuster bolt until its flush. ok thats done. then i rotated the engine to check the setting but just before it rotated 360 back to the T mark on the rotor it made a clicking sound and popped out about 3mm. then i turned it a little further so the T was aligned again and it was flush.

so have i done this right or should i have adjusted the outer adjuster bolt to take into account of this 3mm movement .

is lining the T with the rotor TDC or is it just before ?

 

[Pandorasglocks]

I think adjusting the cam while the bike is warm is best, although not necessarily running. I think gggGary had a post recently about why he does it warm. As for the valve clearence, always do it stone cold as the clearences will change as the engine warms up.

 

[anysnail]

if you are really lucky, like me, you'll have adjusted the tensioner too late and you will get to take your engine apart. i recommend you adjust asap!

 

[XSLeo]

I adjust mine warmed up, engine idling. Adjust the tension so the rod moves in and out about 1-2 mm, On the outward stroke, coming out just flush with adjuster. If when idling you get no movement of the rod, it's to tight. More than 1-2 mm to loose.

 

[YL82]

On my XS650C (Type D Tensioner), I am experiencing the same type noise as Spitfire described at the beginning of this thread.

Yesterday, I removed my Cam Chain Tensioner (read it was easy to do, so what the hell). I've got a new O-ring (for large nut) and Gasket on order...

I've got the tensioner removed from my engine or at least the following: push rod(plunger), spring, 6-bolt mounting plate, copper damper washer, adjuster screw, and cam chain adjuster cap.

Perhaps a dumb question, but can any adjustments be made with the tensioner out of the engine? Assuming not, am I simply to re-assemble and reinstall the tensioner onto the engine and leave off the Adjuster cap, start the engine, and check for the plunger to be flush with the engine idling or at least with the engine warm?

Like comments I've read from 5Twins, I wonder what's to stop adjustments from going awry when tightening the adjuster cap in the absence of a lock nut on the Type D.

There's no problems with cranking the engine and idling with the large adjuster nut off?

I think I know what I need to do, but have some trepidation since I've never done this before.

Thanks!!

Some pics attached...

 

[xjwmx]

I wonder what's to stop adjustments from going awry when tightening the adjuster cap in the absence of a lock nut on the Type D.

I don't think the adjustment is particularly critical. I think that's why there are so many ways to do it, which all work. You're just sort of adjusting spring tension really. If there's a couple mm of movement and it doesn't make noise, I'd call it good. Rotating it a second time and seeing it no longer flush and so on is being too picky with it I think.

 

[XSLeo]

If the threads on the adjuster and cap are clean and in good shape, the tension of the spring should hold the adjuster while you snug the cap.
If your too worried about it, replace it with a later model adjuster.
Leo

 

[YL82]

No worries here.

I'm a novice @ motorcycle maintenance & repair, so I'm learning by doing & asking questions along the way.

Does the cap nut need to be torqued to a specified unit or just snugged up?

 

[XSLeo]

Just snugged up.
Leo

 

[YL82]

What should the (in my case 6) mounting bolts be torqued to?

Clymer says to apply gasket cement to both sides of the new gasket.

Is this an absolute necessity to use a gasket cement? If so, no biggie.

Any recommendations for a particular gasket cement?

Gonna have to head to O'Advance Zone.

(I've got an O'Reilly's, Advance Auto & Auto Zone all beside each other).

 

[retiredgentleman]

I believe the bolts are 6 mm. Use only 6 ft-lbs torque. No sealant required.

 

[YL82]

My 6 bolts take a 10 mm wrench or socket.

I'm sure I'm displaying my mechanical ignorance on a global basis, but does the 6 mm refer to the thread diameter and that measurement is what torque specs are predicated on?

When removing the 6 bolts, I totally failed to pay attention that two of the bolts (Dowel Bolts apparently) are different than the other 4. So, I'm not absolutely sure where the 2 bolts go back.

Do these 2 Dowel (or Reamer?) Bolts go in the middle holes on either side of the shaft?

That's kind of what my Haynes manual shows. The Clymer shows an older style tensioner.

Thanks!

 

[Dusty]

I had a problem like you are having, and it turned out to be my chain hitting my chain gaurd. Take off your chain gaurd and see if the noise goes away. This is only if the noise is when you're riding.

 

[retiredgentleman]

YamaLovin76;

6 mm refers to the thread diameter.

I would put the 2 dowel type bolts in opposite diagonal corners, such as upper right and lower left. I think that would give the best alinement.