few things i wudnt have done.

joebgd

XS650 Junkie
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If i could go back i feel my bike fealt sooo much better w the original stearing bearings, it was like a rock, changed 2 upgraded pin berings and a major woble at higher speeds.
The chain adjusters i got were of a lesser quality and the stock chain itself is way better than the heavy dutty one i got from jc whitny. The jcw.. chain broke on me i dont think the stock chain wud have. Just a heads up. Im always open minded, if anyone agrees or disagrees let us know. I know I will think twice b4 "upgrading" if it seems fine.

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old stuff just rocks, these bikes were almost perfect when they came out. they aint freeway fliers or dirt bikes but they make a pretty good in between bike.
 
If i could go back i feel my bike fealt sooo much better w the original stearing bearings, it was like a rock, changed 2 upgraded pin berings and a major woble at higher speeds.
The chain adjusters i got were of a lesser quality and the stock chain itself is way better than the heavy dutty one i got from jc whitny. The jcw.. chain broke on me i dont think the stock chain wud have. Just a heads up. Im always open minded, if anyone agrees or disagrees let us know. I know I will think twice b4 "upgrading" if it seems fine.

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If you mean you changed over to tapered roller bearings, the tapered roller bearings themselves are not the cause of your high speed wobble. You should look more closely at whether you did a proper installation.

I removed my stock steering ball bearings, and replaced them with "All balls" tapered roller bearings. I could not detect any difference in how my bike steered/handled. However, it was worthwhile, as I found the stock ball bearings had no grease left in them.The bike handled fine before and still handled fine afterwards.

There is a lot of internet hyperbole, that flys around on these web sites. Its a very common story that you must replace the plastic swing arm bushings, otherwise you risk almost certain death on the road. I've been riding my 78SE for 8 years now, and my plastic bushing swing arm works just fine. However, I do grease my swing arm, that others may be forgetting.

Another tall tale, is that the stock alternator is crap and must be replaced with a PMA. Many mention the almost impossible task of having to replace the carbon brushes every 5 or 6 years. Hard to believe, but my stock alternator works great.

Keep an open mind, when lads on the web tell you about these "must do", so called, up grades. If your bike is running well, just keep the money in your pocket.

Many new lads jump right in, buying parts from places such as Mikesxs.com. They don't realize, that many of those parts are inferior, sub standard parts. They are made to a price point, and as such they don't fit properly, fail early, and sometimes are not even useable.

I've had to remove newly installed parts from Mikesxs, and re-install 30+ year old OEM parts, because the quality was so bad. The OEM Japanese parts on these bikes were very high quality, and because of that, they have lasted a very long time.

Its very worthwhile to search out OEM parts if they are available. Some parts on these bikes were used on other models, right up into 20xx years. Yes you will pay more, but you're not buying junk parts.
 
The high speed wobble you have can be caused from to tight of adjustment of the steering head bearings, easy to do no matter what type of bearings. Just a thought on the chain breaking is to check the battery overflow tube, battery acid on a chain will make it brittle real quick and cause a failure. Junk aftermarket parts is very common although the mikes parts I have used so far have been decent.
 
RG speaks the truth.
In many cases it depends on miles, maintenance, purchase of quality replacement parts and proper installation. My project so far this year has been an 82. Near as I can tell it was a well treated 14,000 stone stock bike When Billy Boober Builder #1 then BBB #2 got ahold of it. The good news is that somewhere early on the electric whiz did his rewire magic and it never ran again. I dragged (literally, the rear wheel was off the bike with "lost" axle parts) it out of a Wisconsin garage in February and started the rehab. It's still on going but it's on the road now. She is still on the factory steering bearings and swing arm bushings. And they are just fine. I need to seriously check the front for grease and dented races (very common on ball type steering bearings), Installation of the tapered rollers has always required an adjustment after some miles, at least when I install them, but the swing arm bushes on this one are fine, someone actually knew how to use a grease gun! Others I have worked on had horrible slop in the swing bushes even with low miles. The stock front brakes DO need help to make them acceptable to a modern rider. Better pads, a rebuilt caliper, teflon (stainless) line and a smaller MC all work together to really improve feel and stopping distance. +1 to buying bottom feeder parts and expecting better performance. It's not just XS650s, the hot rodding world is chock full of inferior "performance" parts.
 
Ya I think the woble is being caused by something other than the roller bearing itself.
When i changed my swing arm bushings the originals wer in great shape also.
I love the altinator and the whole tci stock set up on my 80. My next one i get i want an 80 on up for that reason alone. Points ignitions I wud consider changing but I cant say enough how easy and adequit the stock tci is.

Posted via Mobile
 
If you mean you changed over to tapered roller bearings, the tapered roller bearings themselves are not the cause of your high speed wobble. You should look more closely at whether you did a proper installation.

I removed my stock steering ball bearings, and replaced them with "All balls" tapered roller bearings. I could not detect any difference in how my bike steered/handled. However, it was worthwhile, as I found the stock ball bearings had no grease left in them.The bike handled fine before and still handled fine afterwards.

There is a lot of internet hyperbole, that flys around on these web sites. Its a very common story that you must replace the plastic swing arm bushings, otherwise you risk almost certain death on the road. I've been riding my 78SE for 8 years now, and my plastic bushing swing arm works just fine. However, I do grease my swing arm, that others may be forgetting.

Another tall tale, is that the stock alternator is crap and must be replaced with a PMA. Many mention the almost impossible task of having to replace the carbon brushes every 5 or 6 years. Hard to believe, but my stock alternator works great.

Keep an open mind, when lads on the web tell you about these "must do", so called, up grades. If your bike is running well, just keep the money in your pocket.

Many new lads jump right in, buying parts from places such as Mikesxs.com. They don't realize, that many of those parts are inferior, sub standard parts. They are made to a price point, and as such they don't fit properly, fail early, and sometimes are not even useable.

I've had to remove newly installed parts from Mikesxs, and re-install 30+ year old OEM parts, because the quality was so bad. The OEM Japanese parts on these bikes were very high quality, and because of that, they have lasted a very long time.

Its very worthwhile to search out OEM parts if they are available. Some parts on these bikes were used on other models, right up into 20xx years. Yes you will pay more, but you're not buying junk parts.

Kinda depends on the person RG. I've also heard that these can't run without blade fuses, a new DIY reg/rec. and a pamco. Each and every purchase can be defense-able. Even when it actually comes down to "it's my money and I'll spend it the way I want".

Remember that slap dab fix for the original fuse holders I did? What like 5 years ago?
They are still working. I think maybe another member got all the bad glass tube fuses cause I have NEVER had a bad glass tube fuse. Sure I've blown fuses but that isn't the same as saying all glass fuses are BAD BAD BAD and MUST be replaced.
Ditto the OEM coil, reg/rec, TCI etc. etc...
Things do wear out (we are living proof) but will the end of the world come if we continue to use things that aren't broke. Don't think so. Will some point come where you are on the bike when something quits and you are left on the side of the road? Probably if you ride much. Every foot the bike rolls forward under it's own power increases the chances something will wear out. . . . . sooner.
Chances are each of us think the mods done were absolutely necessary.
I kinda miss xjwmx. He may have had his own way about things but you can't deny his pennies per mile cost. He keep his bike going without spending gobs on parts and tools.
 
WER;

Yes. it does depend somewhat on the person. If an individual can tolerate the occasional road side break down, then they can continue to use original components that are prone to failure.

I had a friend you had a 1980 XS650. He loved to ride it, but it would often break down and leave him stranded on the road side. He would take a trip into a favourite mountain road, but had his wife follow along in the family car to provide rescue as needed. After I replaced his fuse panel, he never had anymore break downs.

I remember some of xjwmx's "repairs". I would not recommend, any new lads to the site, follow his methods.
 
WER;

Yes. it does depend somewhat on the person. If an individual can tolerate the occasional road side break down, then they can continue to use original components that are prone to failure.

I had a friend you had a 1980 XS650. He loved to ride it, but it would often break down and leave him stranded on the road side. He would take a trip into a favourite mountain road, but had his wife follow along in the family car to provide rescue as needed. After I replaced his fuse panel, he never had anymore break downs.

I remember some of xjwmx's "repairs". I would not recommend, any new lads to the site, follow his methods.
I must have missed something , I haven't been on here very often lately , did something happen to xjwmx ?
 
a cheep chain is just that a cheep chain no more need's to be said about that!!
I too like the stock charging system on my 81 as well as the tci ing. system I have changed a few bikws over to it the as far as pamco go's great stuff useing one on the 277 bikes (far better than points if you have the money the same go's with pma great
stuff if you have the extra money it is cheeper to go pma and pamco if you have to replace your stock stuff remember this stuff is 30+ years old and the new stuff ( pamco and pma ) is much better than 30+ year parts.
 
Ya I think the woble is being caused by something other than the roller bearing itself.
When i changed my swing arm bushings the originals wer in great shape also.
I love the altinator and the whole tci stock set up on my 80. My next one i get i want an 80 on up for that reason alone. Points ignitions I wud consider changing but I cant say enough how easy and adequit the stock tci is.

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joebgd,
The ball bearings are inferior as they create dimples in the races while riding because the handlebars are straight most of the time. Then they can't be adjusted without tight spots.
I installed tapered roller bearings about 25 or 30 years ago. When running up the road
for a test, I had the "wobble" you spoke of. I had to re-adjust the bearings. Turn the handlebars from stop to stop several times to "seat" the rollers. You will then have to "re-snug" the nut to remove all play. Looseness in the bearings causes the wobble. Mine didn't wobble until I let go of the handlebars.
 
Ok thanks, i actually did just recently snug up on them, havnt had a chance for highway speeds yet tho.

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Never had a problem buying a quality DID chain. Sure they are a little more expensive, but I have ridden 30k on one before it needed to be replaced. That was on a 1200cc sport bike with a smaller 520 chain. Buy quality once and be done or buy cheap twice and spend more.
 
"hot rodding world is chock full of inferior "performance" parts."

Why stop there? It's hard to get anything made in China or Mexico that's any damn good or fits. I've gotten ball joints with tapers on the shafts that won't let them seat properly, the stock fuel pumps in the tank might go 150K but try to get a replacement you can trust for more than a year. Brake pads on many cars come with the backing plates out of spec (too long) so they drag and stick. That's if you can even get them in. I've probably had 8 straight sets from China that had to be end trimmed on the grinding wheel. I put a pitman arm on a Grand Marquis the other day and we never got it fully seated. At least there is no danger of it coming off. I've had to warranty several brake and clutch master cylinders the last few years. Bike parts are good in comparison.
 
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