Thanx, peanut! What with the recent crop of 'unmolested, low mileage, original' early bikes popping up, I have concerns about members getting 'burned', or vice-versa. Also concerned that a possible 'restored/modified' bike may inadvertently become the standard against which others may be judged.
I dunno, maybe fussing over nothing. '70-'71s are unique enough to stand out on their own. Maybe others share this concern, maybe not. Angus, Vince, gggGary, 650Skull and others have gone through some effort to post good pics of these early models as examples of this genre, and I just wanted to add value to that work...
Dang. no power to brown(hot) ground is good. test lite was brite. When I had worked on this bike four years ago, the blinkers didn't work, but the charging system did. do they run off the same feed? To get the blinkers to work, I just ran a hotwire from the hot in the headlight bucket to the flasher unit..Yeah. There's a 70-74 combined manual that's best for your bike.
It's downloadable, but the paper one is better.
Here's a quick diagnostic. Find that regulator connector in front of the battery. It'll have 3 wires, brown (ignition hot), green (power to rotor brush), black (ground). Leave it connected, and just probe into it.
The black wire should show a good ground connection.
When you switch on ignition:
The brown wire should go hot.
- If not, there's a problem with the brown wire power.
The green wire should go hot.
- If not, there's a problem in the regulator.
The green wire connection to the outer rotor brush should go hot.
- If not, there's a problem with the green wire in the harness, maybe in the alternator connector.
The inner rotor brush should show a good ground connection...
Dang. no power to brown(hot) ...
So...... if I energize the brown wire, then can I go forward with your regulator test?
You know, if I remember correctly....the blinker rewire I mentioned triggered a memmory of when I worked on it four years ago. The rear brake switch gets no power either. But the switch it self is good. So some where in that puzzle palace behind the back bone in front of the battery, I have a brake in the brown wire. Ick. battery box removal time. Does the brown wire out of the reg run straight to the headlight bucket, then branch to blinker, rear brake? Or does the brown wire coming out of the ignition switch connector feed the brake, blink, then reg?
Thank you too many. You input on what the brown wire feeds might be a clue......
Well. it does run, so the break must be after the coil.I recall that they all join at that backbone/batterybox area, but their common line goes forward and splices at the coils' brown feedline, around the rear of the top motor mount. So, one or the other...
I have dual port vent, and the original throttle cables have the protective spring. I replaced the throttle cables from ones from mikesxs. they have the springs, too. I still have the originals. they are very hard and cracked.
I stopped at harbor freight today, to grab some evaporust, and just wandering around the store I found a kit that you hook up one wire to the bad wire, and ground another wire, and you can trace it to the short. So im going to try that.
The wiring is different than mine. the main bundle and the ign wires go in the left hole. everything else out of the rite. Good call on the main being ziptied to the tank cup. Mine is too low to my eye-crometers.
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Is this a de-comp lever? says magura on it.