https://www.650central.com/fso_your_bike_chokes_off_at_stopl.htm
testing in the above link. Rewound rotor is my fix choice if it failed.
testing in the above link. Rewound rotor is my fix choice if it failed.
I scratched my head when I had that problem as i mentioned
Hot I had problems
Cold ran perfect.
Hot machine you burn your fingers trying to locate the fault.
Cold it is not there .It is not possible to find not even Toyota could do it on a brand new car for a friend of mine
So I ended up replacing parts .As per Judgement ; If I remember correctly I bought a New Boyer system first
And then in the end found the Regulator.
So I nowadays have a tendency to go after the cheapest part first and .. Move up in the price range
If nothing obvious points to a certain Component.
Stators and rotors can give measurement values indicating if faulty at times.
But in my cases the charging voltage was not over 14 V if the alternator had problems.
But it can of course happen if not broken yet.
I would not immediately connect the stock TCI for testing because if it fries it is a costly mishap.
I have also had problems with the alternator.
Rewound 1 stator bought one replacement and one rotor.
Also expensive in relation to rectifier or regulator. ca 5 x more expensive.
The regulator are in my experience sensitive not the rectifier but since this is a unit. Well
To me a fluctuating voltage with a battery in -- indicates something wrong there
high 12 .s is battery with no charging aka shorted somewhere.
14 is charging ..
Hi guys,
I could really use some help fixing my bike. I plan on going for a trip next Friday with some friends. I've been building my bike for way to long and trying to get it running. Here is the situation.
Bike starts fine, runs strong for anywhere between 15 and 45min, after that it starts to misfire, stumble or hesitate. I notice this especially in the lower rpm range or small throttle openings. If I let it cool down for a bit, see runs for a while before it's back.
I really don't know where to look anymore. Here is what I've done so far or some background info:
-Got a new Speedo with voltmeter. Charging seems to be ok around 14,5v
-i suspected the coil. Changed it for an identical backups I had laying around. Measurements show similar ohm values between the 2 coils when cold. With it I replaced the plug wires, caps and plugs. Did not make a difference.
-then I thought it might be fuel related, because if I give it WOT it pulls through the stumbling. Although it's hard to be 100% of this in traffic.
I did not to anything to the engine/exhaust/intake during the build. Bike ran fine before. I cleaned the entire carbs, checked the diaphragms, all the jets, the choke (enriches) nothing weird found.
- bike has fuel in the tank
- cleaned the airfilters, they were dirty. Proper KN ones, been running them for multiple years.
-camchain play is ok. Valves were somewhat sloppy, redid those.
- bike has TCI ignition. Oem pickup, aftermarket replacement carmo TCI box.
Does anyone have anything to aim at? Time is ticking and I'm lost.....
Before you start pulling brushes and disconnecting yes and that Travis.https://www.650central.com/fso_your_bike_chokes_off_at_stopl.htm
testing in the above link. Rewound rotor is my fix choice if it failed.
If it's toast I'm out of the trip. There is no way I can have stuff rewound in days.
Still thinking about that battery voltage.
I was looking through some videos of the last few days of testing. Here is something interesting:
It's in Dutch but what's happening is that it started to stumble, I turn off the lights (low beam, this indication light is weird) and the engine is smooth again. See the video.
However today I tested during the day, never had lights on...
If that's the easiest way to deactivate the charging system... then yes, just remove a brush and see if the problem goes away.Don't know how to check this hot or with the issue present? Drive until the problem and then remove the brushes?
Bike is not running smooth in the video for sure. And yes this new tacho gets and inductive signal from one of the plug leads.
If you say so on the running rough but .... WDR What I see on the video is the tach jumping all over the place and then it jumps to 4,000 rpm while the engine sound stays basically at the same low RPM. Then when the engine is revved, the tach does not respond. I'm just noting what I saw.
BUT, ... let's not focus on it is, it isn't but rather trying to get you going.
The 12.7 battery voltage you note is by most considered fully charged. The 11.2 is concerning, but depending on the load. Halogen headlight(s)
However the main thing is how low does it drop when you try to crank your engine and will it crank your engine well.
If you read the batter voltage and crank the motor the battery voltage should not drop below around 9.5 volts.
Finally, if you have 12 volts while the engine is running and when it is stumbling it is not battery related. The electronic ignition system should fire properly at 11 volts or more. OK, that's batteries, let's get to your charging system you note concerns .
Marty's (jetmechmarty) post on checking your alternator is good and one everyone should print out and put in you tech tips folder for hard times.
Here is a little addition to it, a quick check if you will.
To determine the actual condition of the rotor AND your charging system you can check it , what we electrical folks say UNDER LOAD.
This rules out the regulator, the wiring harness, the brushed, and the rotor. if all tests result positive.
Before performing the following turn on the ignition and run switch, do not start, and measure your battery's voltage. Write it down. Turn off ignition switch.
Step 1 Remove the Brown wire from the alternator brush screw. tighten the screw back
Step 2 Set your meter (you do have one yes ) up to read at least 10 AMPS.
Step 3 Connect the RED meter lead to the Brown wire.
Step 4 Turn the ignition and run switch on like you are about to start your bike. (DO NO START)
step 5 Touch the BLACK meter lead to the brush screw where the brown wire was connected.
Step 6 Read the amps being drawn on your meter.
Step 7 Turn off ignition
Now, take the battery voltage reading you previously go and divide it by the amp reading you just got.
EX: 12.3v / 2.4a = 5.125
What we just did was an electrical load calculation to determine the resistance of your rotor. The value should be right around 5 ohms
If it is less than 4 it means your rotor windings are breaking down. Greater than 7 means either your brushes aren't making good contact or you have a loose connection issue. Seldom does it mean rotor issues.
Bottom line... This is a test to see if there is a problem. If your readings are not between 4 to 6 then you refer to Marty's test procedure to pinpoint the issue.
Hope this will be of help.
Hope you get your bike running so you can make the meet.
Let us know your results if you do the tests because... inquiring minds want To know!
Some info you can use if you choose..
UK
Kenintn
You do?? Ok! Well like I said, I just fried my back up I'm afraid....I doubt it's your rotor. Rising to 7 or so ohms about right when it gets hot... so that's normal. I'm thinking it's the reg/rec based on it running strong and getting you home with the brush(es) removed.
Your stator tested good. Are the brushes worn out... possibly losing contact because of not enough spring tension? Could cause it to bounce. That would confuse the hell outta the reg/rec.Worth trying to find a replacement reg rec?
I think he's pretty well eliminated connections anyway. This statement.... Next I tried to get home with the brushes removed. The bike ran good an strong! It was super sketchy to ride home, lights on and seeing the voltage drop every km. I made it home.....Since yours is a scratch built harness this wouldn’t apply.
Can you give us a closeup pic? And If I were you, I'd work on getting a spare rotor too. Yours sounds fine for now, but as Marty pointed out earlier, it's not a question of if it will fail, it's a question of when.There is a small circular groove though