yes some do..........But.......Reg and rectifiers need to be cooled so having then in an open space with sufficient airflow to keep them at their optimum running temperature is going help the bike run good as well.
Thee is no quick fix for patience......learning about these bikes and getting all the correct information will take time. The information given is going to be in fits and farts and even links supplied will have parts of and sometimes a piece of, to be stored and assembled, (talking about information here),. This is just how it happens on a site like this. Tech menu and search feature is a valuable resource, Use these features in conjunction with information from questions and sometimes you just have to cross reference.
You show an aptitude for doing things, (taking apart switches and cleaning), so it is just patience and it will happen.
No buying a PMA is not a quick fix. There are different suppliers and within that some suppliers supply parts that need to be upgraded to make the PMA associated parts reliable
There is an alternative to replacing the separate Regulator and rectifier on the 70-79 points models. This is a very cheap alternative but you do need to be able to solder and does require making up some wiring around these parts. Still simple..........This can be done for the 80-84 models as well but the 70-79 and 80-84 charging systems are different.
It is important to make sure the parts bought are for the model/system your bike is/has.
3 Phase Bridge rectifier.
Has been a report the cheap Chinese rectifiers with built in heat-sink can fail.
From 5Twins:
All the 650s I've seen have 3 white wires coming out of the alternator, not yellow ones. Connecting the rectifier is pretty simple. The one you're considering should have a sticker on the side showing the connections. The 3 whites, in any order, go to the 3 tabs in a row on one side. The black and red wires go to the other 2 single tabs on the other side. The red goes to the tab near the red plastic end cap, black to the one near the black plastic end cap .....
If buying a 3 Phase rectifier without a built in heat-sink.
I used a section of heat sink from an old computer CPU. It's been working fine now for a couple years so I guess it's adequate .....
The black is a ground wire of course. The red runs back to the battery "+" terminal. On the stock harness, it connects to the red wire running up to the key switch, after the fuse and before the key.
Alternative Automotive Regulators that can be used on points model Bikes with the Ground/Earthed Brushes on the Stator
Power switching regulator or what's called a "B" circuit type
I would search for a
VR115 or equivalent first.................
There are many with different part numbers. They are all the same unit, just from different manufacturers. Here's some you can search for .....
M5-701 12V B-Circuit (Regulated Power)
GRX-528 Motorcraft (Ford)
VR 1010 NAPA Echlin
VR727 Wells
1V1033 Airtex
C622 AC Delco
VR-1760 Ace
VR291 GP Sorensen
RAB 12A6 Electro Systems
R292 BWD
A621
86079
KVR179
AL165F
A simple triangle shaped adapter plate can be added to your VR-115 to allow solid 2 point mounting to existing mounts on your battery box .....
I cut a template out of card stock to determine the size and exact hole locations .....
'78E Standard and 4 Euro twins
If you want to spend Money and go the 70-79 Solid State Combined Reg/Rect, (like the one MikesXS sells), then here is how it is wired up.
All you are doing is moving 2 components into one. This will eliminate one of the earth/Ground wires from 2, (one for each component), to 1.