Hydraulic Clutch Conversion - Any Interest?

Got mine installed yesterday. One thing I had to do was put a stronger return spring on. The stock spring was not pulling hard enough to return all the way back.

I also don't like the lever. I think I'll get some steel and build my own lever.
 
Phail said:
Got mine installed yesterday. One thing I had to do was put a stronger return spring on. The stock spring was not pulling hard enough to return all the way back.
Click to expand...

I am having a similar problem. Where did you get your spring?
 
sseres said:
What symptom are you attributing to the spring being too weak?
Click to expand...

Discussed in my thread linked a few posts back. Basically what Phail said above. I'm having to physically pull the actuator rod back down to original position. It goes up but does not return. Stronger spring would force it to return.

In reality any stock spring *shouldn't* be too weak....but the actuator rod does not move smoothly in the slave.....
 
wait... not trying to be dim... but what operationally will you notice if the spring doesn't move the thing all the way out after you pull the lever? does it explain why I'm slipping at high rpms?
 
sseres said:
wait... not trying to be dim... but what operationally will you notice if the spring doesn't move the thing all the way out after you pull the lever? does it explain why I'm slipping at high rpms?
Click to expand...

The little actuator rod pulls the worm gear (which turns out like a corkscrew), engaging the clutch. If the spring doesn't retract the worm gear back to its original position, the worm gear remains turned out and the clutch won't disengage.

In my case, the clutch isn't engaging because lack of pressure isn't pulling the actuator rod high enough (turning out worm gear). This is why I have been bleeding it for 4 days, trying to get rid of air in the system and build pressure (if indeed that is the problem). And the clutch isn't disengaging because lack of release (possibly due to defective M/C or slave) isn't retracting the actuator rod and worm gear back to original position. This is why a stronger spring would increase tension of release and force it to retract. So I am having issues on both sides.
 
Mine would go back about half way. I bet with the bike running it would return all the way. But I had a bunch of springs laying around so I found one that worked. It's pretty strong and pulls the worm gear all the way back. The original spring was just really weak.

I did re-lube the worm gear and cleaned everything up pretty nice.

Note: I still had problems and so I opened it up to check the clutch and found the PO screwed it up. Wrong size friction plates, screws stripped, and stuff.
 
Splexin said:
Discussed in my thread linked a few posts back. Basically what Phail said above. I'm having to physically pull the actuator rod back down to original position. It goes up but does not return. Stronger spring would force it to return.

In reality any stock spring *shouldn't* be too weak....but the actuator rod does not move smoothly in the slave.....
Click to expand...

That small spring in the cover does not disengage the clutch, the springs inside the clutch basket itself do. So don't be alarmed if you pull the lever and don't see the actuator return back to the original location, as there isn't enough tension on that small spring to do so. If you check the action of the Hydraulic Clutch, and it operates proper, then manually pull the actuator back to it's "at rest" location (cable all the way out) and then bolt the cover back up. The clutch springs themselves will push the rod back and forth inside the cases, working against the mechanism. I have a few test bikes here running the conversion, and we've even ditched that small spring entirely with no ill effect.

I'm taking note that some don't like the handle length, for those that don't like it, are you running the OEM control pods on the bars? If so, let me know. I'd like to come up with a solution to this to make sure ALL my customers are happy. I originally found this lever to be effective for the crowd that wanted cleaned up and minimalized "stuff" on the bars, and the length is similar to that found on the "Slimline" brake master cylinders that I typically run on my custom builds...

Thanks for the feedback, and do keep me posted on your likes and dislikes, so we can constantly improve our products for you folks :thumbsup:

Hugh
 
Thanks for the info on the spring Hugh.

To be clear on my install, I was having issues and thought it was the spring. Now that I've seen how the clutch works and after Hugh explained it, I see that the little spring has little to do with it.

My problem was the PO put the wrong size clutch friction plates in (2 of them out of 6) and they were binding up in the clutch basket. Nothing to do with the hydro clutch or the spring. (my spring was pretty worn out though)

I should be up and running by mid week when I get my new clutch pack.
 
Phail said:
My problem was the PO put the wrong size clutch friction plates in (2 of them out of 6) and they were binding up in the clutch basket.
Click to expand...

Using the Hugh Beard to Bike Ratio, how to you rate the difficulty of replacing plates in the clutch?
Wizarf.jpg
 
Punkskalar said:
That small spring in the cover does not disengage the clutch, the springs inside the clutch basket itself do. So don't be alarmed if you pull the lever and don't see the actuator return back to the original location, as there isn't enough tension on that small spring to do so. If you check the action of the Hydraulic Clutch, and it operates proper, then manually pull the actuator back to it's "at rest" location (cable all the way out) and then bolt the cover back up. The clutch springs themselves will push the rod back and forth inside the cases, working against the mechanism. I have a few test bikes here running the conversion, and we've even ditched that small spring entirely with no ill effect.

I'm taking note that some don't like the handle length, for those that don't like it, are you running the OEM control pods on the bars? If so, let me know. I'd like to come up with a solution to this to make sure ALL my customers are happy. I originally found this lever to be effective for the crowd that wanted cleaned up and minimalized "stuff" on the bars, and the length is similar to that found on the "Slimline" brake master cylinders that I typically run on my custom builds...

Thanks for the feedback, and do keep me posted on your likes and dislikes, so we can constantly improve our products for you folks :thumbsup:

Hugh
Click to expand...

I stand corrected, I always thought the purpose of the small spring was to retract the actuator rod/cable back to original position.

Hugh I emailed you several days ago, but I'm sure your swamped with messages. Either way, I cannot get the HCC to work and have literally spent 4-5 straight days on this thing. I don't know if I just got a bitch-kit or what. The actuator rod does not move smoothly in/out of the slave and the pressure when I squeeze the lever is barely enough to move it a quarter inch...hardly enough to engage the clutch. The lever adjustment screw is all the way in. I've been bleeding until literally I bleed brake fluid, and I still have to physically move it far enough to bleed. I posted a thread of my troubles here: http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18203.


By the way, yes I am using the OEM pods.
 
sseres said:
Using the Hugh Beard to Bike Ratio, how to you rate the difficulty of replacing plates in the clutch?
Click to expand...

Well... Six months ago I knew nothing about bikes. I did build a rock crawler and replaced the head on a VW Jetta. Everything I've done so far has not been hard. Things I think will be hard have been very easy. And I hate working on stuff. I just want to drive.

With the clutch it was just drain the oil, pull the right side off, take the 6 screws out, then it comes apart. I would say, easier than installing the PMA... so.. in between two and three.

BTW, my dad has build choppers, VW trikes, old cars, and stuff all my life. I probably have the gene.
 
Last time i heard the starting gun he ran out and the time before that hopefully this time 3rd time lucky (or un lucky havent tried it out yet) but all should be well but the orders in and looking forward to fixing an old problem hopefully theres a neutral gear out there in trafic. (wonder if it would work on a xt500) thanks hugh
 
FLEA said:
Last time i heard the starting gun he ran out and the time before that hopefully this time 3rd time lucky (or un lucky havent tried it out yet) but all should be well but the orders in and looking forward to fixing an old problem hopefully theres a neutral gear out there in trafic. (wonder if it would work on a xt500) thanks hugh
Click to expand...

Can't imagine why it wouldn't work on an XT500, same basic set up, length of the hydraulic line might be an issue?
 

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