Another project I'd like to pursue.
Google "PWM alternator regulator"...
Google "PWM alternator regulator"...
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Installed a new LED headlight bulb,Results!
- Thread starter XS650D
- Start date
Poor me; IF my charging system has incorrect voltage, I open the the regulator and adjust the cut out coil with a screw driver, done.
I ran across this interesting tidbit in the XS750 triple manual. Early models use the same mechanical regulator as the 650 and the 750 manual provides a little more info. For instance, the unit should be checked/adjusted every 8K miles. Who knew? I doubt most 650 ones have ever been touched. And I'll bet many 650 owners think they have charging problems because of that. Mine charged but poorly (mid 13's) when I got it and that's all it was, the need for a simple adjustment. My dealer was working on one with charging problems and it turned out that's all it needed too.
It seems that besides the peak output, you can also adjust the amount of change in the output by fooling with the core gap. Like to tinker Gary?
It seems that besides the peak output, you can also adjust the amount of change in the output by fooling with the core gap. Like to tinker Gary?
original mechanical regulator
Points ignition
ATU (mechanical advancer)
nos automotive regulator (example VR-115)
Pamco electronic ignition or yamaha TCI
Pamco E-advancer or yamaha TCI
For those that like to tinker in the garage, please choose the first 3.
For those that like to spend their time riding, please choose the last 3.
Points ignition
ATU (mechanical advancer)
nos automotive regulator (example VR-115)
Pamco electronic ignition or yamaha TCI
Pamco E-advancer or yamaha TCI
For those that like to tinker in the garage, please choose the first 3.
For those that like to spend their time riding, please choose the last 3.
I think you should add one #1156 socket and bulb as a test. That may solve your high voltage problem.
dps650rider
XS650 Addict
BTW, I installed a red Zevo 1157 replacement in my taillight and am very happy with it. I picked this particular unit because it uses 2 heatsinked LED's very close to the same position the filament in an incandescent bulb would be which properly focuses the light using the existing reflector. I compared it to the standard bulb and both modes were noticeably brighter than the stock bulb and the difference in brightness between modes is comparable. The beam pattern is also very close to what you get with a stock bulb.
The only thing that suffers is the red light isn't so great on the license plate but since I seldom ride at night no worries.
The only thing that suffers is the red light isn't so great on the license plate but since I seldom ride at night no worries.
Was there a particular reason to pick the red instead of white?
dps650rider
XS650 Addict
Absolutely! With white you end up wasting most of the light produced. In all likelyhood it wouldn't be as bright.
jabcb
XS650 Enthusiast
Tesla has switched from AC induction motors to permanent magnet motors for their new model, the Model 3.
AC induction motors are better at high performance, like the Model S’s “ludicrous speed.”
Permanent magnet motors are more efficient so its used in commuter vehicles.
https://www.edmunds.com/car-news/au...l-3-has-unexpected-electric-motor-design.html
The same efficiency issue applies to alternators.
AC induction motors are better at high performance, like the Model S’s “ludicrous speed.”
Permanent magnet motors are more efficient so its used in commuter vehicles.
https://www.edmunds.com/car-news/au...l-3-has-unexpected-electric-motor-design.html
The same efficiency issue applies to alternators.
original mechanical regulator
Points ignition
ATU (mechanical advancer)
nos automotive regulator (example VR-115)
Pamco electronic ignition or yamaha TCI
Pamco E-advancer or yamaha TCI
For those that like to tinker in the garage, please choose the first 3.
For those that like to spend their time riding, please choose the last 3.
You don't want to spend any time in the garage? the XS650 (or ANY 40 year old bike) is the wrong answer.
I'm all for modernizing when issues arise The mechanical regulator on the restomod is prolly original and the ODO shows 29K miles 8K in the last 3 years, still has mechanical advance too. 79 Survivor is all stock and I haven't had to touch a thing on it this year. Well as far as I remember....
it's been e-start every time and hasn't seen a charger since last winter. Don't even have a voltmeter on it.
dps650rider
XS650 Addict
When I installed the PMA on my bike I had no idea that a shunt regulator was included until I read about it here. With modern semiconductors (even semiconductors made 10 years ago for that matter) a high efficiency series regulator is easy to do and I never expected that.
Anyway, I have since replaced the original RR with a Shindengen FH020AA. With the original when I got back from a ride the regulator was quite warm to the touch, when you consider the size of the heat sink it was clear that this was dissipating a significant amount of power. The FH020AA by comparison is cool to the touch after a ride indicating it is dissipating very little power.
Anyway, I have since replaced the original RR with a Shindengen FH020AA. With the original when I got back from a ride the regulator was quite warm to the touch, when you consider the size of the heat sink it was clear that this was dissipating a significant amount of power. The FH020AA by comparison is cool to the touch after a ride indicating it is dissipating very little power.
Yes, that generation of Shindengen has a great reputation on some of the Honda forums.
Scott
I may be confused? Reading here http://roadstercycle.com/ it appears the Shindengen FH020AA is a "mosfet SHUNT regulator the Shindengen SH847 Regulator is the series type. Been on that site before and he seems to offer pretty good product/advice. There is even a "non attributed" pamco pete blurb! Never mind that he rides an SX650.......
XS650D
XS650 Junkie
Wow! This thread is going off target .Personally I believe that the old stand-by Alternator winding
is the way to go,brushs are cheap and second to change every 4000 mls or so. It just works even if it seems kinda
primitive !
is the way to go,brushs are cheap and second to change every 4000 mls or so. It just works even if it seems kinda
primitive !
Yes, these threads soon wander away from the original problem. Brushes have been around for a long, long time, and yet they are still used in many types of equipment in use today. Hundreds of millions of cars and trucks use brushes in their alternators. The large generators used in oil fired, coal fired and nuclear power plants all use brushes. Your variable speed drill has brushes in it. Brushes are simple, inexpensive and very reliable.
Lets get back to your original problem concerning the voltage going up to 16 volts, when using an LED head light and tail light.
Have you considered my idea to use a single #1156 bulb, as a test to add some additional amps?
The same thing could be accomplished by swapping back to an incandescent 1157 brake/tail light for the test?
Yes WER, that would be a quick and simple test,as long as the brake light is held ON while you rev up to 4000 rpm.You would have the bike walking backwards in the garage, unless you put a rubber mat under the centre stand.
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Yes, 5twins, I changed mine at 45K only because the outer brush was getting kinda short. I installed a cheap digital Voltmeter and , yes, the voltage bounces all over the place. I've never adjusted the regulator, but I will dabble after Christmas.
I guess that I am overcharging, because my battery drinks a lot of water. Well, let's say after 18 months, the levels are an average of a 1/2" below the low marks. This has been consistent since 1976.
The big fluctuation in charging output was one of the main reasons I changed my original mechanical regulator out for an automotive unit. I think the vibration affects the mechanical one, making it's output go high, low, all over the place. Even at higher RPMs, like between 3500 and 4K, I'd see my output drop off to the mid 13s sometimes. I figured this was making my poor rotor work harder than need be to keep up with the constantly changing demand. The VR115 automotive regulator I installed puts out a nice, steady charge.
