Another project I'd like to pursue.
Google "PWM alternator regulator"...
Google "PWM alternator regulator"...
I think you should add one #1156 socket and bulb as a test. That may solve your high voltage problem.Guys I made an errors HAVE the VR-115 Reg not the Chrysler unit and with my Led rear tail light bulb
I run around 14.3 Volts and can somtimes peak at certain lower rpms (under 3000) to 14.4 and occasionally 14.5
but with the LED headlight bulb (tried it twice) goes up to 16 Volts!!. Cam thinking about running the front indicators
all the time (driving lights) with the LED Headlight bulb.Do u think that would work. Im not grey at electrical but may
give I a go with some guidance from u guys.Anyone interested in this experiment chime in....
original mechanical regulator
Points ignition
ATU (mechanical advancer)
nos automotive regulator (example VR-115)
Pamco electronic ignition or yamaha TCI
Pamco E-advancer or yamaha TCI
For those that like to tinker in the garage, please choose the first 3.
For those that like to spend their time riding, please choose the last 3.
When I installed the PMA on my bike I had no idea that a shunt regulator was included until I read about it here. With modern semiconductors (even semiconductors made 10 years ago for that matter) a high efficiency series regulator is easy to do and I never expected that.
Anyway, I have since replaced the original RR with a Shindengen FH020AA. With the original when I got back from a ride the regulator was quite warm to the touch, when you consider the size of the heat sink it was clear that this was dissipating a significant amount of power. The FH020AA by comparison is cool to the touch after a ride indicating it is dissipating very little power.
When I installed the PMA on my bike I had no idea that a shunt regulator was included until I read about it here. With modern semiconductors (even semiconductors made 10 years ago for that matter) a high efficiency series regulator is easy to do and I never expected that.
Anyway, I have since replaced the original RR with a Shindengen FH020AA. With the original when I got back from a ride the regulator was quite warm to the touch, when you consider the size of the heat sink it was clear that this was dissipating a significant amount of power. The FH020AA by comparison is cool to the touch after a ride indicating it is dissipating very little power.
Yes, these threads soon wander away from the original problem. Brushes have been around for a long, long time, and yet they are still used in many types of equipment in use today. Hundreds of millions of cars and trucks use brushes in their alternators. The large generators used in oil fired, coal fired and nuclear power plants all use brushes. Your variable speed drill has brushes in it. Brushes are simple, inexpensive and very reliable.Wow! This thread is going off target .Personally I believe that the old stand-by Alternator winding
is the way to go,brushs are cheap and second to change every 4000 mls or so. It just works even if it seems kinda
primitive !
The same thing could be accomplished by swapping back to an incandescent 1157 brake/tail light for the test?Have you considered my idea to use a single #1156 bulb, as a test to add some additional amps?
Yes WER, that would be a quick and simple test,as long as the brake light is held ON while you rev up to 4000 rpm.You would have the bike walking backwards in the garage, unless you put a rubber mat under the centre stand.The same thing could be accomplished by swapping back to an incandescent 1157 brake/tail light for the test?
Yes, 5twins, I changed mine at 45K only because the outer brush was getting kinda short. I installed a cheap digital Voltmeter and , yes, the voltage bounces all over the place. I've never adjusted the regulator, but I will dabble after Christmas.4K miles on a set of brushes doesn't sound good. Maybe you need to buy better brushes. As far as I know, mine are the originals and show hardly any wear at about 32K.