kick start problem xs650

Surprised the heck out of me, came right off with no problems. The gasket was good even. Perhaps it had been gently loosened somehow. :yikes: The kick pics are from that engine. I did spend some time digging dirt out of allen heads and slots before I opened it. :wink2:
 
That one proves once and for all you can't judge a book by its cover.
 
guyssss help me out. i took cover off. but i cant fit it back in. tried to hammer it bit in. nothing. should it be easy to put in? plz help guys
 
yes it should be easy no more than a gentle tap or two at most something is not lined up properly. show us a picture of the inside? There is a bit of a trick to getting the kick start spring lined up and in the right place.
 
yes it should be easy no more than a gentle tap or two at most something is not lined up properly. show us a picture of the inside? There is a bit of a trick to getting the kick start spring lined up and in the right place.

yup it was easy to fit in. i just had to read few manuals and see how its been done. thank you tho. i will have to take it off again, cuz the spring is not tight enough. but oh well. i know how to put it back :)
 
To make up for my previous off topic wander here's some pics.
on reassembly it helps to use the kick arm to rotate the shaft till it goes all the way in.
Line up the the two spring ends slide the shaft in. then rotate it till the sector on the arm can drop in to the area where it travels.
I think the tension of the "clip" that holds the Bendix may be your issue, a search will reveal some previous discussions on that. I believe XSjohn will weigh in on those discussions.

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This bike may have had an "incident" in it's past, You think?
But I think the motor is a runner!


GGGary

Hoping you or someone else might see this and weight in. I am having the same issue. Bike ran and rode fine for the past 2 years, went to start it today and the kicker locked up about half way down. I put it in gear and rocked the engine back a little and it would allow me to turn the kicker slightly but it would still lock up. Feels like I am hitting something solid.

Going to take the cover off tomorrow and take a look to see what is going on in there, but I am trying to figure out how the clip might be creating this problem. I looked for bendix clip issues, but it seems like all I see are posts related to the starter motor. Is this the same as the kicker clip?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Hoping I don't find something large and metallic between the kicker gear and the clutch:yikes:.
 
Well. I drained the oil and pulled the side open. Nothing wrong with the kicker mechanism. So I pulled the plugs and looked inside. Everything seemed to be fine there. Pulled the sump and found lots of ugly metal bits.

In an effort to try and figure out what was happening, I rotated the engine back and forth with a socket to see where it was stopping and figure out if I could see why. Seemed to be locking up at about 10* either side of BDC.

Looked up through the sump and found that there appears to be a piece of aluminum wedged between the crank flywheels. I'll try to get a pic up for anyone interested, but I guess the long and short of it is that the motor has to be torn down.

This engine has about 10,000 miles on a rebuild and cam-chain tension was checked at every oil change (at the very least) and I change the oil every 1000 miles. Never saw any plastic in the sump and the filters were just starting to look almost completely clean the past 2 oil changes. I am very curious to tear it down and see what exactly self destructed in there. By the looks, I have to think it was the cam chain tensioner, but the whole thing is still a bit of a shock to me.

I rode the bike about 40 miles the other day. Rode to the bank that night, and when I went to kick it over the next morning the motor was stuck. I am still trying to figure out how the hell that piece got stuck in the crank after I parked the bike.

Anyhow, shitty day. Hoping to get things apart and back together so I can still do some riding this summer. I guess the nice thing is that my truck was in the shop earlier this year so I got about 2 months of riding in before it all went to hell.
 
hey guys, I just rebuilt my motor last summer and I'm almost ready to start it up- I'm no mechanic but pretty good turning a wrench and have done most fixes on my vechicles by myself. That being said, I don't know if this motor ran before I bought it- when I opened it up I found a broken tooth on the gear that relays to electric start (small gear on right side bottom/fwd of kick) and some beat up piston rings, ok-fixed all that and added bigger 5th gear-new (used pistons) and new rings, installed everything as per manual and you tube videos. So now it's in the frame with new HHB alt,ignition system 1/2 complete (need to finish routing wires and such. I put oil in her and just adjusted valves. Move kick start lever to spin the crank and I can stand on it at 12:00 position, move it by hand to about 9:00 and kick feels alot better,meaning I can get rotation on the crank. My Q: is why ? won't it budge at 12:00 position? w/ plugs out! and it does feel tight at the 9:00 pos. also but way better. I don't mean to be redundant but I've asked this Q: before and someone mentioned the clutch basket NUT might be too tight, is the clutch a factor in kick start mode?because left side is not complete (clutch cable not installed) new 1 pc. clutch push rod installed-reused old plates after checking them w/ mic. to see if they were worn- I can NOT push that rod by hand to move plates. I sprayed w-d40 into cilinders thinking the new rings aren't seated yet but that was no help. ANY IDEAS would be appreciated.
 
Yes, the clutch can be a factor. The kicker works through the clutch to get to the crank and turn the motor. The kicker mates with and turns the tranny shafts when you use it. The clutch is mounted on the end of the forward tranny shaft so it gets turned too. A large gear attached to the back of the main clutch hub mates with the crank and turns it. If your clutch is binding up for some reason then yes, that would make the motor hard to turn over.
 
I suggest you take the clutch completely apart again, and confirm that the correct parts are there and that they are assembled in the correct order. I assume you know the clutch must be indexed. There are correct diagrams of the clutch assembly on this site, so search around.......................look in the "Tech" section. Make sure there are no other broken parts left laying in there.
 
You mentioned having a new HHB PMA. They can be assembled incorrectly so the parts bind. That would make the motor hard to turn over so I would check that too.
 
HHB went on smooth as silk-does it work? I don't know yet,lol (hopefully).ahhh,I'm pretty confident in the build but clutch has me second guessing. I'm positive I put it back together correctly because I had to get a new tab washer so I could lock that nut down, would having rags in the intake make it hard? I also have new cam chain and tensioner is set flush according to book. 20-50 valvoline synth. it's really cold in NJ these days, Further more when kick lever is at 9:00 pos. alt.spins pretty good. I guess I'm just going to wait and see what happens when I try and start for the first time.
 
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