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Mailman’s XS2 a full on restoration
- Thread starter Mailman
- Start date
More than routine I’m afraid. I’ll post something in the ongoing health thread later.
The excitement is building, I can feel it, it’s coming.
Sorry.I just read the above comment, I meant the bike.
Sorry.I just read the above comment, I meant the bike.
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Great restoration going on here...(with pics)
Thanks , I appreciate it. I’ve been getting bogged down in details lately.
Haha! I knew what you meant my friend and thanks.
Today I just couldn’t get any traction. I never did get brake fluid in my front brake M/C and get the lines bled, so I worked on that for a while. My Mighty Vac that’s several years old, broke right outa the gate and my connections have more leaks than the The White House, so that’s a work in progress. In retrospect I should’ve had that whole system bled BEFORE I put any painted parts on. I’m paranoid about getting fluid on my paint somehow.
Tomorrow I plan to run to the hardware store and pick up some necessaries and maybe swing by Harbor Freight and get another Mighty Vac.
I think I’ll look into Gary’s magic “ Look Ma No Hands! “. Method for bleeding brakes.
Update: I’m going to try the Brakemaster Gary method! He swears it’s a winner! 
I'm a messy brake bleeder. Cover everything that you can with plastic, like plastic shopping bags. Have a spray bottle with water ready in case you do get some on the paint. Drenching the paint with water immediately gives a good chance of no damage to the paint. Oh, plastic parts too.
Scott
Scott
Yup! That’s my project for tomorrow!
Some bleeder screws have a sealant on them, also those threads can be sealed with Teflon tape, avoid the holes on the sides of the screw. Without some kind of sealer the screw could leak at its threads, bye bye paint.
Scott
Scott
If this sounds corny just ignore it, this is how I do it. Bleeding brakes. Using a good quality pressure oil can, make sure it’s clean and fill with brake fluid. Connect to bleed nipple on calipers with plastic tubing having a good tight fit. Remove the reservoir cap open the bleed nipple, start pumping with the oil can, steady away, any excess fluid can be drawn off from the reservoir, when the bubbles stop appearing in the reservoir, nip up the nipple. Should be good to go.
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AKA "reverse bleeding". I've done it and it works slicker than a smelt. Air wants to rise to the surface, not be forced down a tube.
I resort to reverse bleeding if need be but I'm usually able to get it done the regular way. I start with a full MC and draw the fluid down through the system with the vac pump. Once it's filled, I do a few hand pumps (the old fashioned method) to finish. I position the MC reservoir as level as possible, mostly by turning the bars, but sometimes loosening the bar clamp and rotating the MC is necessary. Another thing I do once the system is full and nearly bled, to help it along, is to pull the lever in as far as it'll go to build pressure, then release it and let it snap back out. This often frees up little air bubbles in the MC and they'll rise up into the reservoir. I "snap" the lever in and out like this multiple times.
I’ve never had any trouble bleeding brakes the old fashioned way, did it in cars and trucks for many years. I’ve lost two days now trying to get one of my connections to seal without any luck. It’s where the bottom hose connects to that shaped steel line. I’ve had it on and off a dozen times. I’ve tried taking some super fine sandpaper and shining up the connection. I’ve looked at it very close under a bright light.
I don’t get it. The problem lies ( I believe ) in the steel line. It was messed up from the get go. The threads had been crossed and I had to file the first thread off to get it to start.
The hoses are new repops. I’m getting really aggravated with this. The idea of a one piece stainless braided line is looking better and better!
I don’t get it. The problem lies ( I believe ) in the steel line. It was messed up from the get go. The threads had been crossed and I had to file the first thread off to get it to start.
The hoses are new repops. I’m getting really aggravated with this. The idea of a one piece stainless braided line is looking better and better!
Great pics, Bob.
3 things.
1- It almost looks like the fittings' threads will bottom before sufficient crush on the flare.
2- Whut's this?
3- Whut's this? A crack?
3 things.
1- It almost looks like the fittings' threads will bottom before sufficient crush on the flare.
2- Whut's this?
3- Whut's this? A crack?
"Eagle Eye" is on the case, again.....
I’ll reply to both of those comments. In the first photo where you drew arrows, you could see where that greenish finish had been rubbed off, ONLY on one side. I saw that too and thought that the steel line is not making full contact with that conical part of the hose fitting.
Secondly, that thing that looks like a crack, is where there is a seam that runs longitudinally along the steel line. Where the line was flared it creates a sort of notch in the edge. The other end of the steel line looked the same, but does not leak. On the inside of the flare on the steel line, there was a lot of very fine pitting from ( I’m assuming ) corrosion. I took some 1500 grit wet sand paper and folded it in there and worked it back and forth until the surface was shiny. But no luck. I’ve exerted so much force on the nut, that I’ve started to deform it pretty bad.
If you're dead set on keeping that steel line, you could cut off the end, put a new nut on (parts store should have em... if not Amazon does.) and re-flare it. Looks like a double flare.... About 20 bucks for a double flare tool kit at Amazon. Your parts store should have that too.
