Love your bench cover. Groovy man...
Nice work Bob!
Nice work Bob!
-
Enjoy XS650.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS650.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
Mailman’s XS2 a full on restoration
- Thread starter Mailman
- Start date
Love your bench cover. Groovy man...
!
Haha! It’s an old cheapo Walmart table cloth. I kind of dig it, it’s padded so it cushions the motor when I’m roll it around and oil just wipes right off of it. The psychedelic colors ar just a bonus! Haha!
That right case is looking great Bob. It'll polish up real nice now.
Great work as always!
Looking forward to hearing some vroom, vroom.
Great work as always!
Looking forward to hearing some vroom, vroom.
Thanks Robin! Me too! The road is long and in the end, the journey is the destination.
...."The oxen are slow, but the Earth is patient...."
Got a couple more jobs done today, only about 500 more jobs to do before I’m done!
I began by checking my new starter gears spring for slip resistance. This new gear has a MUCH beefier spring than my 1972 original. The original gear spring slipped at only two pounds of pull. The new gear initially required sixteen pounds of pull, which would’ve been great , but it soon wore in and became more like eight pounds of pull required. So I gave it a little squeeze in the vise and rechecked, now it’s good for twelve pounds of resistance. I’m ok with that.
So, I had my engine flipped up on its side, it was super easy to work on the gears in this position. Just a note, I oil everything when assembling, every gear that runs together, any surface that it spins on, every friction point gets oiled as I go. Starter gear and return spring are in.
Gear #3 and #2 are back in with all the various washers and circlip. Everything buttoned up and slides and works as it should.
I then turned my attention to the clutch pack I bought from Daniel Black, the later model assembly, believed to come off a 1975 model. The steel plates needed to be cleaned up, as the friction discs had rusted to the plates.
So I set up my bench grinder with a brass wire wheel and went after them.
When they were clean I checked them for warpage on my piece of heavy glass.
Once I was sure they were all within spec, I gave them a final surfacing with some wet sandpaper to smooth them up. I also cleaned up the surfaces on the hub and pressure plate.
At this point I was looking at the original friction plates, which I had intended to use. As I was looking at them I could smell a distinctive burnt smell. I measured their thickness with a caliper and they were worn just a little past acceptable, so I ordered new EBC friction plates this afternoon. Lots of stuff to busy myself with while I’m waiting.
Anyhoo......it’s always nice to have the starter gear done!
I began by checking my new starter gears spring for slip resistance. This new gear has a MUCH beefier spring than my 1972 original. The original gear spring slipped at only two pounds of pull. The new gear initially required sixteen pounds of pull, which would’ve been great , but it soon wore in and became more like eight pounds of pull required. So I gave it a little squeeze in the vise and rechecked, now it’s good for twelve pounds of resistance. I’m ok with that.
So, I had my engine flipped up on its side, it was super easy to work on the gears in this position. Just a note, I oil everything when assembling, every gear that runs together, any surface that it spins on, every friction point gets oiled as I go. Starter gear and return spring are in.
Gear #3 and #2 are back in with all the various washers and circlip. Everything buttoned up and slides and works as it should.
I then turned my attention to the clutch pack I bought from Daniel Black, the later model assembly, believed to come off a 1975 model. The steel plates needed to be cleaned up, as the friction discs had rusted to the plates.
So I set up my bench grinder with a brass wire wheel and went after them.
When they were clean I checked them for warpage on my piece of heavy glass.
Once I was sure they were all within spec, I gave them a final surfacing with some wet sandpaper to smooth them up. I also cleaned up the surfaces on the hub and pressure plate.
At this point I was looking at the original friction plates, which I had intended to use. As I was looking at them I could smell a distinctive burnt smell. I measured their thickness with a caliper and they were worn just a little past acceptable, so I ordered new EBC friction plates this afternoon. Lots of stuff to busy myself with while I’m waiting.
Anyhoo......it’s always nice to have the starter gear done!
Mailman you pictures of the 1972's cluch disk made me decide to post some OT pictures of what I pulled out of my 1992 Sporty, note this bike was being ridden as recent as 9:30 this morning, but knew the clutch was a bit dodgy!
Don't think that one is in spec!
And for the steel plates, I don't think even Mailman can smooth out those bumps and grooves!
I did not even take a picture of the pressure plate or the clutch surface of the clutch hub, both I would estimate as having 0.010 grooves worn in them! Only good thing is new factory parts are available from "The Motor Company", I'm going with a Barnett "extra plate" clutch and Harley for the pressure plate and hub. If it was an XS650 clutch I could just walk out in the barn and find a good usable stack of parts!
Don't think that one is in spec!
And for the steel plates, I don't think even Mailman can smooth out those bumps and grooves!
I did not even take a picture of the pressure plate or the clutch surface of the clutch hub, both I would estimate as having 0.010 grooves worn in them! Only good thing is new factory parts are available from "The Motor Company", I'm going with a Barnett "extra plate" clutch and Harley for the pressure plate and hub. If it was an XS650 clutch I could just walk out in the barn and find a good usable stack of parts!
Haha! Well Ken, nobody can accuse you of not getting your moneys worth out of a clutch!
Wow, Ken! The bumps & grooves in that steel plate look more like a vinyl 45 record! (anybody remember those?)
Well this Sporty has 40,000+ miles on it and the last 24,000 pulling a sidecar no idea of what the original owner put it through for 16,000 miles so maybe it's not that surprising it is worn out. If the new clutch lasts 40,000 I'll be happy or not around to care!Haha! Well Ken, nobody can accuse you of not getting your moneys worth out of a clutch!
G'day Bob,
I lubricate everything just like you however, I use Morey's or STP sticky as shit on a shovel, LOL.
GW
Well I am perplexed! I was going through my remaining seals. I know all I have left to replace is the starter and the cam seals.
Here are the seals I have left.
The two on the left are for the starter. The one on the right is the right diameter for the cam seal but it is very wide. Like double the width it’s supposed to be. There’s no way that’s going to fit in its housing. AND I only have one, there should be two! Here it is next to my original seal.
I ordered the complete engine seal kit from the Kenosha Kid in ebay. I got the ARS seals.
I don’t know what the problem is.
So now it’s looking like I’m going to have to order new cam seals. Any recommendations?
Here are the seals I have left.
The two on the left are for the starter. The one on the right is the right diameter for the cam seal but it is very wide. Like double the width it’s supposed to be. There’s no way that’s going to fit in its housing. AND I only have one, there should be two! Here it is next to my original seal.
I ordered the complete engine seal kit from the Kenosha Kid in ebay. I got the ARS seals.
I don’t know what the problem is.
So now it’s looking like I’m going to have to order new cam seals. Any recommendations?
Make sure they are not stuck together. Looks like they are. I think I see two lips.
Was just typin' the same when your message popped up....
I’ll check again, they do look that way. I’ll let you know.
Well, that was a weird one! They were more than just stuck together. They were molded together. I cut the seam with an Xacto knife and the two popped apart!
Thanks gentlemen!
Thanks gentlemen!
Bob, those seals look to be rotation specific. There's a rotation arrow and the lips look to have a labyrinth type spiral to them. Both have an 'R' after the size which looks to match up to the labyrinth spiral direction. You need an 'L' and an 'R'.......
Oh crap! So I’m back to ordering new seals again! Well thanks for catching that.
On to the rest of my day. I started out by cleaning up my new later model clutch worm assembly and packing it with red grease. I also did a little mixing and matching parts to get one nice unit. I then installed it into my left side cover.
After that I spent time on my rocker cover, cleaning out oil passageways and scraping gasket surfaces. It is now ready to install the rockers back in to.
Then I took my starter apart, by first drilling out the stripped screws and then pulling it apart. I probably could’ve skipped this, I know the starter works, but I am intent on replacing all the seals, I also wanted to get a look at the brushes. I will also run through all the multi meter tests just for the practice. And I intend to replace the large o rings at each end of the motor.
Oh yeah, so back to my earlier question. Know a good source for the cam seals? I seemed to recall hearing the the ones that Mikes sells are too wide? Or don’t fit or don’t seal right, something like that?
