My 60th birthday present

[mrtwowheel]

I'm sure I'm not the only one.........there is a certain "signature" to these bikes (and some others) in the way that the spark plug wires are routed rearwards and looped forward again to the plug. If I see different routing, it bothers me, like bungee cords and antique furniture.

Scott

 

[5twins]

I think best function was also taken into account. Looping them out the back keeps them away from the hot exhaust pipes. Also, if looped out front, the wind would be constantly forcing them back. Lots of little things can be improved on these bikes but I don't think this is one of them.

 

[MaxPete]

Yup - sort of like.....hmmmmm - a Suzuki triple with expansion chambers instead of that funky 3-into-4 exhaust system. It might work OK - perhaps even better than stock - but it looks somehow....wrong - that same way as things like:

• vegetarian chili;
• dancing with your sister;
• sharing a toothbrush;
• automatic transmission sports cars and motorcycles;
• etc.

....might sound OK until you really think about them and then....not so much.

 

[Mailman]

You know I don't usually do things like I did yesterday. I wasn't really planning on installing the Pamco yet. Usually I do my homework prior to starting a job. Then if I run into a problem I call for help.
Starting the Pamco install was pure impulse and I opened my yap about the coil before I looked for solutions. The Pamco kit I ordered included a stand off mounting kit and I mistakenly assumed that it was a ready made bolt on kit.
Two more things,
1. The space where it is recommended to mount the coil is currently occupied by the flasher unit and some little electronic unit that I don't know what it is. It's going to call for relocating some stuff.

2. And secondly , I'm not really fond of the idea of both coil wires pointing out to one side. It's not symmetrical. One wire is going to have to be much longer than the other.

 

[TimeMachine]

Mine does not have that ? Well Mailman, through this Bike thread you have certainly shown that you have the guts to go fer it ! Sure have hit components axle to axle. I myself am much more reluctant to make upgrade changes. Thankin' my lucky stars to have a bike that hasn't given me more grief yet ! The coil project is one I'm hoping to out last as well... Kudos tho !

 

[5twins]

I think that little component is some sort of diode or resistor. It was used on the '77 and older models. I'm not sure what it does. But it appears to mount off the bottom of one of the original coil mounting holes? If that's the case, I think it can stay where it is, or maybe just get moved to another unused coil mounting hole. You're only going to use two of them for your new coil mount.

My coil plug wires exit out the side and I'm pretty sure I didn't need two different length plug wires. Having to route one of the wires back over to the other side uses the extra length it has from being in the rear plug wire hole.

 

[weekendrider]

Using Mikes coil you may need to set the mounting bolts to the inside of the original so the tank will clear.

My first stab at it had the bolts inline and that didn't allow the tank to clear.

It won't bother that resistor (which is somehow tied to the RLU) or at least I didn't.

 

[mrtwowheel]

That looks like a ballast resistor for coil/coils, but your bike shouldn't have one. Was that resistor connected to your original coil?

 

[retiredgentleman]

It may be the diode that is used in the rear brake lining alarm circuit. You can check the colour of the wires against the wiring diagram that is in the TECH section/Wiring Diagrams.

 

[Mailman]

There you go. I'll find it in the wiring diagrams.

 

[jetmechmarty]

View attachment 96337

My XS1100SG has one of those. On my bike, it's a ballast resistor. It is bypassed when the starter button is engaged, so full current goes to the coils. Current goes through it after start. Without it, the TCI is toast, unless I replace the coils with some that have higher resistance value.

I'm not really familiar with your bike, but I thought maybe I should put it out there in case it has similar function.

 

[DanielBlack]

Yup, WER is correct and I'm sure you've now seen in the diagram that it is the resistor for the Reserve Lighting Unit.

The RLU is supposed to monitor your headlight and if either the high or low beam blowout, switch over to the other filament. I've removed my RLU and its resistor.

The brake light diode is the small, black, silver-labeled cylinder hanging on two twisted wires off the harness.

 

[Mailman]

Aha! Thanks Daniel, you saved me looking it up.

 

[DanielBlack]

The RLU is going to make a great place for my little 4 position fuse box.

 

[mrtwowheel]

So....if it is a resistor it shouldn't require a ground from its mounting bracket, I think.

Scott

 

[Mailman]

Last night I ordered front and rear wheel bearings and steering head ( All Balls) bearings.
I won't be getting to that work any time real soon. I've got enough to do for the next few weeks.
The steering head bearings are especially bad on my bike. That's a job I'm not looking forward to, simply because of the amount of stuff you have to strip off the front end.
All those jobs will be the first time for me.
So much of what I've already done was also a first time experience.
This forum is absolutely invaluable. A GREAT BIG THANKS to all the more experienced members of this forum that patiently walk us through the things they've already covered so many times before. It's old hat to them , but the struggles are brand new for most of us.
Also thanks to everyone else who encourages and cheers you on and is happy for your success.
Bob

 

[XS650D]

Mailman,this is all part of the fun in owning a piece of history!
When I purchased my 77,which I thought would be turn key as it was suppose to be a total rebuild there were
tons of issues that needed rectified.Its been 3 years now and I'm still updating and fixing stuff.
But each time I do the old girl runs even better and keeps me motivated to eventually complete
the project and have something special that runs rides and handles great and is still pretty reliable for 40 years old.
I don't see many around and always have people coming over to talk to me about it.Lots of Fun!!

 

[5twins]

You may not need to replace the wheel bearings right away. I don't find very many bad ones. They're easy to check, just stick a finger in there and rotate them. If they're smooth and have little to no play between the inner and outer race, they're probably still fine. I do plan on replacing any of the steel shielded or open bearings I encounter in some of the older wheels, but I don't necessarily do it immediately. Also, if you have the rubber shielded bearings (which I think '77 models did), you can just add some fresh grease. The rubber shields can be popped off with a pick or little sharp pocket knife.

Steering bearings, yes, most need replacing. I think the problem is they were never greased since they left the factory. Do install a grease nipple in the side of the neck while things are apart so you can easily keep the new bearings lubed. I consider it an integral part of the new bearing install process.

 

[Mailman]

Yes , I definitely plan to do the steering head first , just for the sake of good handling and safety.
The wheel bearings are just part of my plan to give the bike a complete freshening. No real rush to do them.
And I have read up on some of the forum posts regarding the steering head bearings and I plan to add the grease fitting.

 

[retiredgentleman]

I have the same thought as 5twins about wheel bearings. Unless you sense roughness or grinding in the bearings, they are fine to keep using. Anytime I have the wheels off for tire changes etc. , I force some grease into the bearings. I'm sure the wheel bearings are original on my bike.