Haha! You're killing me Pete. You're playing my game with the photos! 
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My 60th birthday present
- Thread starter Mailman
- Start date
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- 1977 xs 650d chain and sprockets clutch pushrod seal cranckcase seal new front master cylinder pamco e-advance pamco ultimate high output ignition rebuild brake caliper rebuild brakes rebuilt carburetors replace clutch solid state rectifier stainless steel braid front brake line starter gear fix steering head bearings vr-115 regulator
TimeMachine
SeventyEighte
You 2 are correct 
.....note its full on rain,wind,hail here AZ Mailman !!! Been a wild year here, all things growing like its the Amazon rain forest (yard work)!! Now Im back on to XS stuff/fun ! -RT
.....note its full on rain,wind,hail here AZ Mailman !!! Been a wild year here, all things growing like its the Amazon rain forest (yard work)!! Now Im back on to XS stuff/fun ! -RT
It was snowing here in Windsor yesterday and yet, this evening I took the Sylvia (Honda ST1300) out for a little scoot in 15C weather. That's nearly 60F and so I only used my fall weather gloves.
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Had a great outing today, rode the bike for 50 miles, the farthest I've gone on it yet. It ran perfect, not one hiccup. I had the chance to meet fellow forum members Daniel Black and AZMan ( Rudy ) from Tuscon who came up for the show. Really nice guys. I'm getting more confidence in the bike the more I ride it. The jobs that really need doing now are the ones I'm most reluctant to take on, the steering head bearings and the swing arm bushings. The bike handles like a wobbly goblin now and it's tiresome, but aye aye aye! I don't relish the thought of pulling that whole front end off.
Taking the front end apart aint that bad, it aint a GoldWing. After doing all of this, you'll really understand what is going on with that machine underneath you when riding down the road, knowing those things is a great safety aspect of riding too vs the guy with no mechanical knowhow who buys his machine from a showroom floor. Oops, yours was on a showroom floor, you know what I mean.
Scott
Scott
+1. Despite her crummy electrical system and bedraggled appearance when I got her, Lucille's head bearings, wheels and swing arm bushings were all surprisingly very solid, but I've got the parts from All Balls Racing, and will be digging into those area someday soon. If your bike is dodgey in those areas, you best get at 'em before putting lots of miles on Mailman.
In preparation for your steering head work, you really need a pair of C spanners to deal with those notched rings on top. You need 2 so you can hold the bottom ring as you tighten the top one against it, or to break them loose from one another. Here's some cheap ones that fit great and work well. A pair will cost you less than $8 .....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321756353972?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Also, if you examine the notched ring nuts, you'll find one side has a more pronounced bevel or "dish" around the I.D. Install the nuts bevel side facing bevel side. They tighten together more progressively this way, giving you a better "feel" for it. This also presents a flat side down on the bottom nut to better tension the bearings and a flat side up on the upper nut to better support the top tree .....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321756353972?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Also, if you examine the notched ring nuts, you'll find one side has a more pronounced bevel or "dish" around the I.D. Install the nuts bevel side facing bevel side. They tighten together more progressively this way, giving you a better "feel" for it. This also presents a flat side down on the bottom nut to better tension the bearings and a flat side up on the upper nut to better support the top tree .....
DanielBlack
XS650 Junkie
Mailman, I've got a pair of those wrenches. Yours to borrow when you need them.
Thanks 5Twins - THAT is valuable information. I have already C&P'd it into my archives for when I do that job.
I've also got a couple of those spanners Mailman - but Daniel's are closer...
Pete
I've also got a couple of those spanners Mailman - but Daniel's are closer...
Pete
5Twins, thank you very much for that tip. For that price I think I'd like to have a set of my own. I'm going to get them. Also thanks for the valuable, as always, reference photos!
Daniel , thanks for the kind offer but for that price? I'm going to get them.
Daniel , thanks for the kind offer but for that price? I'm going to get them.
Been there, done that. No big deal. Hardest part is starting the job. A free afternoon. FSM in one hand, greased parts ready for install nearby. Great way to spend an afternoon. Oh yeah. Gotta have the radio tuned to fav station. Cold cervesa after the test ride.....
I ordered the wrenches, they are on a slow boat from China as we speak. I already have my new bearings.
But right now I'm having too much fun riding it to stop. We have a short window of nice weather before it gets really hot. I'll get to it soon ish!
But right now I'm having too much fun riding it to stop. We have a short window of nice weather before it gets really hot. I'll get to it soon ish!
I'm at the front end of mine now. Check your lower tree and fork tubes for straightness. I had to buy straight tubes and have some tweaking to do to the lower tree. Polish and paint........
Scott
Scott
If you have the All Balls bearing kit, you'll see it comes with 2 grease seals. If you examine them, you'll see they are the same. Do use the bottom one. It will need to be snapped on the bottom of the bearing before you drive it down onto the stem. Also leave the original factory rubber ring seal in place. For the top seal, that's up to you. You can use it if you like or leave it out. It really doesn't do much. The factory tin dust cover does pretty much the same thing.
I have the MikesXS bearings. They didn't come with any grease seals. The factory rubber ring seal on the bottom doesn't work all that well by itself. Grease constantly oozes out my bottom bearing. On the one hand, I guess that makes it "self lubricating", on the other hand it's very messy. My steering neck is full of grease because I installed a grease nipple on the side. I have quite a wad of grease sitting on top of and slowly working it's way through that bottom bearing. I didn't use a "grease saver" but if I ever have it apart again I will install one. This fills the extra space in the neck so not nearly as much grease is required to fill it .....
Your Standard pivot tube will have a notch cut in the side for the steering lock .....
If you install the "grease saver", you can cut a hole in the vinyl tubing to expose the notch after it's installed.
I have the MikesXS bearings. They didn't come with any grease seals. The factory rubber ring seal on the bottom doesn't work all that well by itself. Grease constantly oozes out my bottom bearing. On the one hand, I guess that makes it "self lubricating", on the other hand it's very messy. My steering neck is full of grease because I installed a grease nipple on the side. I have quite a wad of grease sitting on top of and slowly working it's way through that bottom bearing. I didn't use a "grease saver" but if I ever have it apart again I will install one. This fills the extra space in the neck so not nearly as much grease is required to fill it .....
Your Standard pivot tube will have a notch cut in the side for the steering lock .....
If you install the "grease saver", you can cut a hole in the vinyl tubing to expose the notch after it's installed.
I did buy the All Balls kit, and thanks for all that info, the grease saver is a good idea, as I do plan to install a zerk fitting on the steering neck.
While we're on the subject, just how far does everything have to be dis assembled? Are we talking complete removal of the headlight bucket and pulling apart all the wiring? Do the instruments have to be unplugged and removed? I didn't know if some of this stuff could just be unbolted and layed to the side. Can the handlebars with everything attached just be layed back somehow? Just wondering if there are any time saving things I can do.
While we're on the subject, just how far does everything have to be dis assembled? Are we talking complete removal of the headlight bucket and pulling apart all the wiring? Do the instruments have to be unplugged and removed? I didn't know if some of this stuff could just be unbolted and layed to the side. Can the handlebars with everything attached just be layed back somehow? Just wondering if there are any time saving things I can do.
You can leave the headlight/ears/T.S. together and just let the assembly dangle from all the wires running into the bucket. The bars/top tree can be lifted off and tied up with some rope so it hangs above. Do make note of the various rubber and metal spacer rings on the top and bottom of the ears. Their assembly sequence isn't always covered very well in the diagrams.
You'll need to remove the front wheel, fender, and brake caliper. Hang the caliper back off the bike somewhere with a short Bungee or rope. Wedge something between the pads like a match pack so if you accidentally squeeze the front brake lever, the pads don't get pressed tight together. Once the forks are stripped of all that lower stuff, each leg can be slid down out of the trees as a complete unit (tube and lower). Before taking anything apart, break loose the big nut on top of the top tree and the caliper mounting bolts. It's easier to break them loose while everything is still assembled.
One more thing - your steering stem is hollow and open on the bottom. Pump the neck full of grease and it's going to fall out the bottom of the stem. You need to block it off, plug it. An old wine bottle cork driven up into it does the trick.
You'll need to remove the front wheel, fender, and brake caliper. Hang the caliper back off the bike somewhere with a short Bungee or rope. Wedge something between the pads like a match pack so if you accidentally squeeze the front brake lever, the pads don't get pressed tight together. Once the forks are stripped of all that lower stuff, each leg can be slid down out of the trees as a complete unit (tube and lower). Before taking anything apart, break loose the big nut on top of the top tree and the caliper mounting bolts. It's easier to break them loose while everything is still assembled.
One more thing - your steering stem is hollow and open on the bottom. Pump the neck full of grease and it's going to fall out the bottom of the stem. You need to block it off, plug it. An old wine bottle cork driven up into it does the trick.
I put a towel over the tank to put the handlebars on. A jack under the front motor mount just in case/peace of mind kinda thing when tugging on the fork tubes. Front wheel, fender and brake caliper removed is enough room to do the job. Freeze the rings to make them smaller, easier to install.
Ok great, thanks guys! Any thing I can do to save some labor is appreciated.
+1 - and when you freeze them Bob - really leave them in there for a good long while (an hour or three at least - or over night) to get the full benefit.
Then when you get them out of the freezer - handle them with gloves and have everything ready at the bike - because the races are small and there isn't much thermal mass. If you carry the part around in your hand or diddle around getting it to the bike and then have to mess around finding your driver and hammer, it will warm up enough that any benefit of freezing it will be gone.
Then when you get them out of the freezer - handle them with gloves and have everything ready at the bike - because the races are small and there isn't much thermal mass. If you carry the part around in your hand or diddle around getting it to the bike and then have to mess around finding your driver and hammer, it will warm up enough that any benefit of freezing it will be gone.
Thanks Pete good tips there.
I was thinking, should I test them to make sure they are cold enough? Haha
I was thinking, should I test them to make sure they are cold enough? Haha
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