My first XS650

BeauCruz

BeauCruz

XS650 Member
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Location
TACOMA Washington
Hi everyone,
Just bought my first bike today. It’s a 1974 XS650, the previous owner did a bunch of cool thing to the bike but I don’t like the clutch lever. Does anyone no what set up this is and if there is a way to adjust the sensitivity? The bike dies if I let the cluch out the littlest bit without throttle.

Thanks all

2C8ED646-6980-4054-BD6E-CF3B00C8B931.jpeg
 
Get a factory service manual. Or a Chiltons or a Haynes. Or all 3. You can download one from xscafe.com. Or is it .org? You will use it a LOT maintaining your ride. These bikes are a tinkers dream. Cool ride you scored there. A LOT of us desire that tank! Myself included.
 
azman857 said:
Get a factory service manual. Or a Chiltons or a Haynes. Or all 3. You can download one from xscafe.com. Or is it .org? You will use it a LOT maintaining your ride. These bikes are a tinkers dream. Cool ride you scored there. A LOT of us desire that tank! Myself included.
Click to expand...

I’ll definitely get on buying one or all of them lol. I guess I got lucky then he gave me two extra tanks one is the same and the other is a different style. Also thanks for the heads up on the free download
 
Superjet said:
Looks to be a HHB hydraulic clutch setup. If you want you can switch back to OEM cable setup and try that. I like my cable setup after I got it all sorted out. Nice bike!

*edit: is it just me or is the chain loose? Looks like a Radian swing arm seap too.
Click to expand...
That’s what iv been thinking. Are the cables pretty easy to adjust?
I think it is loose for sure! I ordered a Haynes manual so I get it tightened up ASAP.
thanks for the help
 
Hi BeauCruz and welcome from Canada's sunny southern coast in Windsor, Ontario!

The stock XS650 clutch cable is easy to adjust and the setup works just fine as long as the lever, the cable and the clutch actuator (a little rotating powerscrew situated in the LH engine case cover) are all clean and well-lubricated. In fact, I'll bet you still have the actuator in there - that is likely what the clutch slave cylinder is pushing on - so likely, all you need is the proper lever and cable.

NOTE: for the clutch to disengage properly, that little rotary actuator (many people call it a "worm") must be rotated through an angle of....60 degrees (I am really just guessing but others will know for sure). If it does not rotate through a sufficient angle, then your clutch will not fully disengage and that does sound like what is happening.

Motion Pro is the preferred brand of cable and with those low handlebars, you'll need a fairly short cable or you will have something that is too long to route conveniently.

But the question in my mind is: why does your hydraulic set-up not work properly? There is no inherent reason for poor clutch function from a hydraulic clutch actuator. I wonder if:
  1. your existing clutch actuator is properly adjusted?
  2. there could be air in the hydraulic line or trapped in the slave cylinder (that is the one down on the engine case)?
  3. the slave cylinder isn't moving the actuator far enough to fully disengage the clutch because the master cylinder (on the handlebar) is not properly sized?
If the problem is:

1. then you need to adjust the clutch actuator screw - which lives inside that little round chrome steel cover on the lefthand side engine case cover. There are lots of instructions on how to adjust it but basically, you gently pry off that cover, loosen the locknut, turn the little screw CW (i.e. tighten it) until it seats very lightly and then back it off the smallest amount (like 1/10 of a turn or less) and tighten the locknut.
DO NOT over-tighten anything.

2. then you simply need to bleed the line to get the air out of it.

3. then you may need a larger diameter master cylinder so that it pushes more fluid down to the slave and makes it stroke more to rotate the actuator through a greater angle to fully disengage the clutch.

I would start with 1. - adjust the actuator and try the clutch again. Then move to 2. - bleed the line to be certain that there is no air in it or in the slave cylinder. Those two would be the easiest fixes for what you have and neither will cost anything but a few minutes of your time. There is lots of info on bleeding brake systems on this forum - just search for it and use those methods.

If the problem turns out to be 3. - get back to us and we'll likely have some suggestions.

Pete
 
Last edited:
MaxPete said:
Hi BeauCruz and welcome from Canada's sunny southern coast in Windsor, Ontario!

The stock XS650 clutch cable is easy to adjust and the setup works just fine as long as the lever, the cable and the clutch actuator (a little powerscrew situated in the LH engine case cover) are all clean and well-lubricated. In fact, I'll bet you still have the actuator in there - that is likely what the clutch slave cylinder is pushing on - so likely, all you need is the proper lever and cable.

Motion Pro is the preferred brand of cable and with those low handlebars, you'll need a fairly short cable or you will have something that is too long to route conveniently.

But the question in my mind is: why does your hydraulic set-up not work properly? There is no inherent reason for poor clutch function from a hydraulic clutch actuator. I wonder if:
  1. there may be air in the hydraulic line or trapped in the slave cylinder (that is the one down on the engine case)?
  2. the slave cylinder isn't moving the actuator far enough to fully disengage the clutch because the master cylinder (on the handlebar) is not appropriately sized?
If the problem is 1) - then you simply need to bleed the line to get the air out of it. If the problem is 2) - then you may need a larger diameter master cylinder so that it pushes more fluid down to the slave and makes it stroke more to rotate the actuator through a greater angle to fully disengage the clutch.

I would start with 1) - bleed the line to be certain that there is no air in it or in the slave cylinder. That would be the easiest fix for what you have and it won't cost anything but a few minutes of your time. There is lots of info on bleeding brake systems on this forum - just search for it and use those methods.

Pete
Click to expand...
Thanks so much for all the info. I’ll bleed the system after work and see if that works.
 
Tacoma WA ! XS's are popping up in WA like spring rabbits lately.
Your XS has huge potential to "add parts" to become whatever kinda ride you are after. Do stay on board here and search through the years of accumulated knowledge about these XS's and gallery pics too! There is no faster and better way to learn and figure out your bike
:cool:
More pics? -R
20200410_140212.jpg
 
Machine said:
Tacoma WA ! XS's are popping up in WA like spring rabbits lately.
Your XS has huge potential to "add parts" to become whatever kinda ride you are after. Do stay on board here and search through the years of accumulated knowledge about these XS's and gallery pics too! There is no faster and better way to learn and figure out your bike
:cool:
More pics? -R
View attachment 165384
Click to expand...
Are you from Tacoma? I’m glad I found a spot with helpful people and awesome threads to follow!
 
MaxPete said:
Hi BeauCruz and welcome from Canada's sunny southern coast in Windsor, Ontario!

The stock XS650 clutch cable is easy to adjust and the setup works just fine as long as the lever, the cable and the clutch actuator (a little rotating powerscrew situated in the LH engine case cover) are all clean and well-lubricated. In fact, I'll bet you still have the actuator in there - that is likely what the clutch slave cylinder is pushing on - so likely, all you need is the proper lever and cable.

NOTE: for the clutch to disengage properly, that little rotary actuator (many people call it a "worm") must be rotated through an angle of....60 degrees (I am really just guessing but others will know for sure). If it does not rotate through a sufficient angle, then your clutch will not fully disengage and that does sound like what is happening.

Motion Pro is the preferred brand of cable and with those low handlebars, you'll need a fairly short cable or you will have something that is too long to route conveniently.

But the question in my mind is: why does your hydraulic set-up not work properly? There is no inherent reason for poor clutch function from a hydraulic clutch actuator. I wonder if:
  1. your existing clutch actuator is properly adjusted?
  2. there could be air in the hydraulic line or trapped in the slave cylinder (that is the one down on the engine case)?
  3. the slave cylinder isn't moving the actuator far enough to fully disengage the clutch because the master cylinder (on the handlebar) is not properly sized?
If the problem is:

1. then you need to adjust the clutch actuator screw - which lives inside that little round chrome steel cover on the lefthand side engine case cover. There are lots of instructions on how to adjust it but basically, you gently pry off that cover, loosen the locknut, turn the little screw CW (i.e. tighten it) until it seats very lightly and then back it off the smallest amount (like 1/10 of a turn or less) and tighten the locknut.
DO NOT over-tighten anything.

2. then you simply need to bleed the line to get the air out of it.

3. then you may need a larger diameter master cylinder so that it pushes more fluid down to the slave and makes it stroke more to rotate the actuator through a greater angle to fully disengage the clutch.

I would start with 1. - adjust the actuator and try the clutch again. Then move to 2. - bleed the line to be certain that there is no air in it or in the slave cylinder. Those two would be the easiest fixes for what you have and neither will cost anything but a few minutes of your time. There is lots of info on bleeding brake systems on this forum - just search for it and use those methods.

If the problem turns out to be 3. - get back to us and we'll likely have some suggestions.

Pete
Click to expand...
Those hughes (and others) semi hydraulic conversions were problematic. IIRC Hughes discontinued them.
 
gggGary said:
Those hughes (and others) semi hydraulic conversions were problematic. IIRC Hughes discontinued them.
Click to expand...

Well, there ya go then!

I hadn’t ever been aware of the Hugh’s hydraulic setup or it’s issues but as Gary says, rigging up the stock cable won’t be too difficult and once it is lubed and adjusted, it definitely works fine.

Pete
 
Last edited:
I would suggest going with oem lever & perch along with properly lubed motion pro cable. I had aftermarket clutch perch and it was crappy. Broke twice and decided to go back to oem and has never been better. JC
 
You have to feed the bike some throttle as you let the clutch out no matter what kind of clutch activation set-up you have. The bike will stall with a plain old cable too if you don't give it gas, lol.
 
5twins said:
You have to feed the bike some throttle as you let the clutch out no matter what kind of clutch activation set-up you have. The bike will stall with a plain old cable too if you don't give it gas, lol.
Click to expand...
I know that part lol Iv driven manual cars from the beginning. The probable is is that I can’t let it out what so ever without it dying. I’ll take a video after work
 

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