angus67
Welder's penetrate deeper!!
earz says normally closed momentary on the red/white.
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1624
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1624
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My Wiring Thread
- Thread starter breahn riley
- Start date
-
- Tags
- electrical pamco wiring
breahn riley
XS650 Addict
Im payin attention. This is alot to swallow at 1030 on monday night
angus67
Welder's penetrate deeper!!
baby steps, buddy, baby steps.
angus67
Welder's penetrate deeper!!
momentary on the pm systems, toggle on red/white on battery systems. (as advised by pamcopete)
pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
Momentary only on the PM systems with a capacitor and no battery. Technically you don't need an ignition switch on those as well.
Using your diagram. Where you have the red/white wires come together and go over to hook to the brown wire is were I would put the kill switch.
This will kill power to both the coil and TCI box.
Putting it there with the Pamco ignition will work the same. No power to coil or ignition when kill switch is off.
This will kill power to both the coil and TCI box.
Putting it there with the Pamco ignition will work the same. No power to coil or ignition when kill switch is off.
angus67
Welder's penetrate deeper!!
sorry for the thread jack, breahn, at least you know where to put the kill switch.
Thanks leo.
Thanks leo.
breahn riley
XS650 Addict
i dont mind at all. correct location of the kill switch is something ill edit in to the diagram i am working with. Its all info based around what Im doin so I just like the info..
angus67
Welder's penetrate deeper!!
ok, then. Hey pete, leo, In breahns diagram, wich i'm using too, when the keyed ign switch is on, does that energize the brown wire there?
I checked for spark tonight, and couldnt get energy from the brown wire after the reg/rec, so I spliced the red white into the baterry feed, (red in keyed switch.) Im not using the keyd switch, just trying to keep it simple to noodle.
I got blue spark after that. The reason i havent put gas through it yet, is My dad wants to be there to here it fire for the first time. I'm just dotting my "t's", and crossing my eyes!!
Im sure it will start, but its anybody's guesse if it will sputter, and lokup, never to be heard from again, or not.carbs are rebiult with johns needles. Just waitng for saturday now.
I checked for spark tonight, and couldnt get energy from the brown wire after the reg/rec, so I spliced the red white into the baterry feed, (red in keyed switch.) Im not using the keyd switch, just trying to keep it simple to noodle.
I got blue spark after that. The reason i havent put gas through it yet, is My dad wants to be there to here it fire for the first time. I'm just dotting my "t's", and crossing my eyes!!
Im sure it will start, but its anybody's guesse if it will sputter, and lokup, never to be heard from again, or not.carbs are rebiult with johns needles. Just waitng for saturday now.
angus67
Welder's penetrate deeper!!
bumppppp
Yes, the brown wire is hot with switch on.
Hooking your red/white wire to the red wire will feed battery power right to the ignition and you will get spark. This should only be done for testing. A 7.5 amp fuse should be used to protect the ignition.
I assume you are hooking it this way just to hear it run. This will work, just wire in the switches before running it to much.
Having a main switch that kills all power is a good idea. Having a kill switch will let you test other electrical systems with out keeping the ignition powered. This will save burning up coils.
Having a fuse for each circuit is a good idea too. When a fuse blows you know where to start looking. A single fuse and you have to check the whole system, not just a small part of it.
I'm running a main fuse between the battery and main switch that feeds a six fuse block. Each fuse feeds just one circuit. A fuse for the ignition, a fuse for the head/tail and dash lights, a fuse for the turn and brake lights. One for the starter, horn. You get the idea.
Like the diagram Pamcopete put up.
Hooking your red/white wire to the red wire will feed battery power right to the ignition and you will get spark. This should only be done for testing. A 7.5 amp fuse should be used to protect the ignition.
I assume you are hooking it this way just to hear it run. This will work, just wire in the switches before running it to much.
Having a main switch that kills all power is a good idea. Having a kill switch will let you test other electrical systems with out keeping the ignition powered. This will save burning up coils.
Having a fuse for each circuit is a good idea too. When a fuse blows you know where to start looking. A single fuse and you have to check the whole system, not just a small part of it.
I'm running a main fuse between the battery and main switch that feeds a six fuse block. Each fuse feeds just one circuit. A fuse for the ignition, a fuse for the head/tail and dash lights, a fuse for the turn and brake lights. One for the starter, horn. You get the idea.
Like the diagram Pamcopete put up.
breahn riley
XS650 Addict
which wire should i put the fuse on for the pamco? Im assuming the fuse should be installed after the splice. does it matter which wire?
this is what i intend to put in the line for the 7.5 fuse. is this correct? if not, what would you choose to use? also, what type of switch are you putting in line for the kill switch? certain amp minimum? here is what i was thinking.
this is what i intend to put in the line for the 7.5 fuse. is this correct? if not, what would you choose to use? also, what type of switch are you putting in line for the kill switch? certain amp minimum? here is what i was thinking.
breahn riley
XS650 Addict
ive edited the diagram. where the splices are occuring, say where the red wire goes through the kill switch and splices to the coil and pamco. at that splice will take a red wire from the pamco and a red wire from the coil and tie them into the red wire coming from the 10a fuse. or will you take that red wire, run it from the amp to the coil and where the spice occurs, remove the casing and solder the wire in? i hope i explained this clearly.
i decided to use the old diagram as i thought it was a good idea to run a wiring harness with more than one fuse
i decided to use the old diagram as i thought it was a good idea to run a wiring harness with more than one fuse
pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
Well, you can eliminate the 7.5 Amp fuse going to the PAMCO and just change the value of the 10 Amp fuse that feeds the kill switch to 7.5 Amps.
Also, just for clarity, remove the heavy red wire that was going to the starter motor previously.
Also, just for clarity, remove the heavy red wire that was going to the starter motor previously.
breahn riley
XS650 Addict
edited
pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
breahn,
Change the 10 Amp fuse that feeds the kill switch to a 7.5 Amp fuse and eliminate the separate 7.5 Amp fuse going to the PAMCO.
Change the 10 Amp fuse that feeds the kill switch to a 7.5 Amp fuse and eliminate the separate 7.5 Amp fuse going to the PAMCO.
breahn riley
XS650 Addict
I will do that. I'm also goin to combine the on off, high low for the headlight into one 3 way toggle switch.
breahn riley
XS650 Addict
How many ohms should I have on my rotor? 5?
pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
5 or between 4 and 7
breahn riley
XS650 Addict
What about 2.5ish?
