My Wiring Thread

[bobber bill]

cleaned up and modified the diagram for 7.5A fuse. is there any reason this diagram wont work with a 72 ? thanks

 

[pamcopete]

bobber,

Well, that depends on which reg/rect you use. If you use the stock reg, the brush that is shown with the brown wire from the 10 Amp fuse will be grounded instead.

Also the reg and rectifier are separate.

If you have a combined reg/rec from an '80's model, then the diagram is OK but you will have to isolate the grounded brush with three nylon screws and wired as shown with +12 going to the brush that is isolated with the nylon screws.

 

[bobber bill]

i will be running a combined rec/reg with nylon screws. what exactly are you referring to when say +12 to the to the brush ? thanks

 

[pamcopete]

bobber...,

The diagram shows +12 Volts on the brown wire coming from the 10 Amp fuse going to the regulator and the brush that you are going to isolate with the nylon screws.

 

[C-Los SD]

breahn,

Well, there are four different coils that come with various kits, but the 17-6803 is the one that has the ends covered in plastic which block good heat conduction, so the ends need to be cleaned up.

What was the kit number and when did you buy it?

Here is another wiring diagram that shows a PAMCO and a reg/rect from a '80 to '83 model.

If you are using a stock tail light, then the color code is wrong. A stock tail light has the blue as the tail light and yellow as the brake light.

I know this is an older topic, but will there be issues by not capping the yellow wire off the stator? I have simplifed wiring the PO did, but my yellow wire is still connected.

 

[pamcopete]

C - Los...,

Still connected to what? If you are using that diagram, there is no place to connect it to. The yellow wire normally goes to the safety relay in a stock wiring setup.

 

[C-Los SD]

Nevermind, I just traced it. It goes through the harness, but is not connected at the other end since the relay has been removed. Another question Pete. I bought the bike as kick start only. I got a e-starter motor off ebay and the starter solenoid is already installed. I have all the motor internals as well. Based on the diagrams above, all I have to do is install the motor and connect it to the solenoid, make sure the blue/white wire is going to the start button and that should work right? No safety relay needed?

Thanks

 

[pamcopete]

C-Los,

Right. Don't forget the red/white wire going to the fuse from the other terminal on the solenoid. That takes the place of the safety relay.

 

[C-Los SD]

Thanks Pete.

Btw, if you guys are looking for a nice toggle switch to mount on your bars, try these MPS switches. I use one to cut headlight power for some extra juice to kick start. I don't have any turn signals or horn so I ditched the handlebar switch. It's billet, so I sanded out the logo and polished it up.

 

[XSLeo]

I have my red/white wire hooked in after the kill switch. This way the kill switch has to be on for the starter to work. Hate to grind on the starter till the battery is dead then realize the kill swith is off.

 

[C-Los SD]

^^ If I'm using the stock handlebar start/stop switch, then an additional kill switch is not necessary right?

 

[pamcopete]

I have my red/white wire hooked in after the kill switch. This way the kill switch has to be on for the starter to work. Hate to grind on the starter till the battery is dead then realize the kill swith is off.

That's the way my '81/H is wired stock. You just have to remember to unplug the ignition when doing a compression test using the starter motor.

 

[xjwmx]

^^ If I'm using the stock handlebar start/stop switch, then an additional kill switch is not necessary right?

To get the feature Leo's talking about, just move the kill switch straight up in your diagram until it's on the other side of the r/w. Although it's hard to say that with certainty, because the fuses are just connected on one side

 

[C-Los SD]

Ok Pete, last question of the day. I'm not at home so I can't check. The red/white wire coming off the solenoid should be connected to where since I don't have any relays? I should just tap it the line that goes to the coil or to the red/white wire coming of the stock handlebar switch?
Thanks again

 

[xjwmx]

The right approach to this is just make connections that give you what you want. You know the r/w has power on it. You know the solenoid needs power on the coil, so put it there. You know the other side needs to go to ground, so put the starter switch between there and ground, to turn on the motor when when the button is pushed.


Whatever happened to good ol' Yugoslavian ingenuity?

 

[xjwmx]

P.S., or you could put the switch on the + side and the other side goes directly to ground, if that's closer to the wiring you already have. Equivalents.

 

[pamcopete]

Ok Pete, last question of the day. I'm not at home so I can't check. The red/white wire coming off the solenoid should be connected to where since I don't have any relays? I should just tap it the line that goes to the coil or to the red/white wire coming of the stock handlebar switch?
Thanks again

Like this:

 

[bobber bill]

I'm shopping for a spade type fuse block and had a couple of questions. I'm assuming that I should go with a "ganged" fuse panel like this one:

http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/p349.html
instead of something like this:

http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/p348.html
to power everything with one wire coming from the ignition. Would I be correct with this assumption?

Also, I took a look at the wires coming from my alternator assembly and found 6 total in the plug: 3 white, 1 green, 1 blue and 1 black wire. This diagram shows where to route the 3 white and 1 green wire but where do the black and blue ones go ?

 

[inxs]

- black is probably the other side of your brushes and blue the neutral light switch

 

[sgt sleazebag]

im running the exat set up in the original post and its worked flawlessly for at least 2000 miles.and a bunch of wire nuts ands crimp connectors too.janky!