My XS650 project, Deep South XS

Just got finished painting my tank and felt I had to post some pics. Not to shabby for a spray bomb paint job if I may say so myself.

full


full


full


full


full


full


full
 
Not bad man! Came out pretty decent. Lot of sanding between coats/colors?

Yes there was lots of sanding, at times I thought it was never going to end. My neighbor being the smart a$$ his is kept saying that if I kept sanding it that it would never hold gas. I still need to do the final buff on it in a couple of days.

+1, I would guess he is an industrial electrician, looks pro.

Thank you for the compliment. I am actually a car wash technician/installer so i do deal with wiring on a regular basis and I am mildly obsessive when it come to stuff like that.
 
Just finished putting the motor back together (thanks to an impeccable second hand crankshaft assembly) and back in the frame. Routed my mock-up hose for the hydaulic clutch, correct me if I am wrong but I do not see any issues with the routing. Here are a few shots of the routing.

full


full


full


full
 
The only potential issue I can see with the hose routing is the proximity to the exhaust. my plan has been to go straight up with a 90 degree fitting, then generally follow the old clutch cable routing. Of course, I have a lot of "general ideas" and most of them are pretty crappy :laugh: so we'll just have to see once the engine is back in...
I can't wait to hear how it works on the road! Looks like you'll be riding looong before I'm halfways back together... :thumbsup:
 
I still have alot of work to do and along way to go before I am on the road but I am just trying to get the things that I can sorted out. I had thought about the close proximity of the clutch hose to the exhaust and figured since I am going to be wrapping the exhaust it should keep it cool enough not to cause any problems. What do you think?
 
Have you played with running the line up on the inside of the left downtube? Possibly a little more protected from the pipe, and a little more out of sight.
 
No I hadn't thought of that. I may have to run a few different hoses to see what kind of obsticles there are tomorrow. So far the plan for tomorrow is to do a compression test on my freshly built motor (.75mm over = 666cc). Gotta love the numerology there. Prime the oil system and check all my wiring before kicking her off again. Already set valves (.0025" intake and .006" exhaust) and cam chain tension, watched for valve clearance through spark plug hole as my son rotated the engine by hand, cleaned float bowls and flushed the inside of the gas tank. Then if all goes well I will be checking timing and adjusting carbs and making adjustments as needed.
 
Damn man, you don't waste any time!

LOL. Life is too short to waste time and I am not getting any younger. Besides wrenching helps take the stress of daily life away. Things will be slowing down quite a bit for a while, I have to wait to get the hardtail done, I still have to find the right rear fender, turn signals, and then I need to get the frame, rims and hubs powdercoated.
 
Last edited:
I got a guy who does my powdercoating out up off 49. He did that Harley frame, not sure if you saw it. If you got someone else, let me know, I might be interested in comparing prices.
 
Hi Ippy,

Could you get a 45 degree (or more appropriate angled) banjo and point it downward between the slave cyl and generator cover, if your using braided hydraulic line there should be plenty of clearance between the two, then turn in towards the centre of the engine and then along the inside of the frame tube all the way to your head stock (neck I think you call it) this route should keep it out of view and harms way. alternatively you could follow the same route using 5/16" Cu Ni brake pipe to take it underneath the motor and then attach it to your flexi hose.

I have seen a couple of posts on the hyd clutch mod, is there any particular reason that you install the slave with the hydraulic fitting upwards? I realise that it makes it easier to bleed in situ, but if it where on the bottom it might look a little neater?

Cheers Luke
 
I have seen a couple of posts on the hyd clutch mod, is there any particular reason that you install the slave with the hydraulic fitting upwards? I realise that it makes it easier to bleed in situ, but if it where on the bottom it might look a little neater?
I have the same clutch slave, so I'll chime in too... Part of makes the Aprilia/Rotax slave small and neat is how the bleeder is integrated into the banjo. No physical reason you couldn't mount it in any other arbitrary location (so long as the screw lugs don't hit the alternator bulge), but it would be a real pain to bleed. If you're thinking that you could remove the slave for bleeding: that's possible, but impractical, as being mounted into the sidecover is what retains the piston... when removed from the sidecover, the piston is free to pop out when you pump the lever, unless the retainer is somehow (temporarily) bolted/clamped to the slave body.
Mounted upright makes it more than just "easier"; it makes it practical and dead-simple to bleed.
 
Mounted upright makes it more than just "easier"; it makes it practical and dead-simple to bleed.

+1^ My thoughts were that since air is lighter than the hyd. fluid it would naturally move to the top of the slave cylinder therefore increasing the efficiency of bleeding and reducing the likelyhood of having trapped air in the system. As far as keeping the hose out of sight, that is not my primary concern since I will be using braided SS line which in my opinion has a look that is both elegant and industrial. My primary concerns are functionality and safety. By running it on the outside of the downtube it will mirror the tach cable which will be running up the outside of the right hand downtube. I may be way off in left feild but I think that with the exhaust wrapped and using SS braided hose the heat should be a non-factor.
 
Just playing devils advocate, Your absolutely right about bleeding it and the danger of popping the piston out if you bleed it when detached, that wouldn't be to much of a worry if you limited it with a clamp, I just thought it might be a little neater. Seeing as you want to make it a feature it's orientated just right. If I where to be looking for an elegant industrial look I would definitely run it in hard pipe with tightly formed bends until it was away from the motor, I have a thing for perfectly formed pipework.

Hope you don't get the leg of your pants caught on that nipple ; )

Cheers Luke
 
Well I had a fairly productive day today after towing my sons truck to the house, helping him swap the transmission in his car (gotta love helping out the kids). I got the last of the pre-start checks done but decided to do a compression test later. Filled her with oil primed the oil system, put gas in the tank, verified flow to carbs. Turned on the big a$$ fan pointed at her to keep her cool, don't want any overheating. Started her on the 2nd kick without the choke on :doh:, probably would have started on the first with the choke on. Checked for any oil leaks :thumbsup: none found. Listened for any ticks or odd sound and she sounded SWEET! Checked the timing and had to do a double take, it was dead on after setting the Pamco in the middle of the upper adjustmet slot. Shut her down and let her cool down for just a bit while I basked in the glow of a job well done. Hooked up my manometer and started her back up, had to shut her down real quick as the right side was pulling up quickly (just goes to show how bad it was before) made a few short runs until I got the carbs close to being synced so that I could let her run long enough to get the carbs synced and steady. I was going to adjust the fuel mixture screws using the "dead cylinder" method but the internet was not cooperating and it got dark. So there is the progress as of now, all in all not a bad day.
 
Back
Top