RPC3
XS650 Addict
Hi all,
Thanks in a considerable part to the advice prior I was able to get the bike up and running and have put about 400 miles on it over the month of June. Everything is pretty solid with a few minor exceptions that I'm curious on, didn't figure they warranted a new thread but also couldn't find specific answers:
1) in setting the cam chain tension, the pin stayed within 1mm +/- the 10mm adjuster nut when cranking over the engine by hand except once per full chain rotation it would push out maybe 3mm or so and then bob just about flush for another full rotation until this high spot touched again. I did this engine cold per manual, I know some of you do it at idle, but couldn't find anything specific about this ...abnormality I'll call it.
2) valves were almost spot on, intake were .04 and exhaust were .07, moved back to .06 per manual. Bike idles at 1,200 nice and smooth with maybe just a hint of a rare miss, seems to pull steady and plugs are a nice brown; I wasn't planning on re-adjusting the timing after doing cam chain/valves as they didn't need much tweaking at all (maybe turned the cam chain adjuster in two flats of the screw if that and the valves .01 as mentioned). Would you bother to re-adjust?
3) oil leak by the tach cable. I'm aware there are three potential leak points; the outside oring, the interior seal to the cable fitting, and the copper washer on the base of the screw that is angled from the ground up into the tach drive. I know that copper washer is leaking and want to go buy a new one at napa, but want to check - if I remove that screw, I wont be in any danger of that shim falling, will I? If I recall, its just the changing of the oring on the outside of the tach drive that requires the drive to be unthreaded and decompressed that can cause the shim to fall, correct?
4) When decelerating, if I lay off the throttle completely I'll get a little popping in the exhaust, usually just when the bike is still cold-15 minutes into riding. If I give the bike or stay on the throttle just a hair then it seems to be fine. I'm guessing its an idle jet or circuit that might not be providing quite enough gas and causing a lean condition on complete throttle closure (haven't gone through carbs yet), but its only a minor annoyance and not very pronounced at all. Thoughts on that?
5) I just picked up a center stand, bolts, spring, and a stopper, but have after market mufflers. I don't believe I have the mount where the center stand stopper(s) would fit. Anyone have a picture of this or suggestions on how to keep the center stand from hitting the frame?
Anyway, its been a ridable summer thusfar so thanks again, have really enjoyed it.
Thanks in a considerable part to the advice prior I was able to get the bike up and running and have put about 400 miles on it over the month of June. Everything is pretty solid with a few minor exceptions that I'm curious on, didn't figure they warranted a new thread but also couldn't find specific answers:
1) in setting the cam chain tension, the pin stayed within 1mm +/- the 10mm adjuster nut when cranking over the engine by hand except once per full chain rotation it would push out maybe 3mm or so and then bob just about flush for another full rotation until this high spot touched again. I did this engine cold per manual, I know some of you do it at idle, but couldn't find anything specific about this ...abnormality I'll call it.
2) valves were almost spot on, intake were .04 and exhaust were .07, moved back to .06 per manual. Bike idles at 1,200 nice and smooth with maybe just a hint of a rare miss, seems to pull steady and plugs are a nice brown; I wasn't planning on re-adjusting the timing after doing cam chain/valves as they didn't need much tweaking at all (maybe turned the cam chain adjuster in two flats of the screw if that and the valves .01 as mentioned). Would you bother to re-adjust?
3) oil leak by the tach cable. I'm aware there are three potential leak points; the outside oring, the interior seal to the cable fitting, and the copper washer on the base of the screw that is angled from the ground up into the tach drive. I know that copper washer is leaking and want to go buy a new one at napa, but want to check - if I remove that screw, I wont be in any danger of that shim falling, will I? If I recall, its just the changing of the oring on the outside of the tach drive that requires the drive to be unthreaded and decompressed that can cause the shim to fall, correct?
4) When decelerating, if I lay off the throttle completely I'll get a little popping in the exhaust, usually just when the bike is still cold-15 minutes into riding. If I give the bike or stay on the throttle just a hair then it seems to be fine. I'm guessing its an idle jet or circuit that might not be providing quite enough gas and causing a lean condition on complete throttle closure (haven't gone through carbs yet), but its only a minor annoyance and not very pronounced at all. Thoughts on that?
5) I just picked up a center stand, bolts, spring, and a stopper, but have after market mufflers. I don't believe I have the mount where the center stand stopper(s) would fit. Anyone have a picture of this or suggestions on how to keep the center stand from hitting the frame?
Anyway, its been a ridable summer thusfar so thanks again, have really enjoyed it.
