Nylon screws

Yeah, my physical location is eastern US, but my hours are more akin to somewhere in the eastern Pacific; I wake at the crack of noon....

That's actually a very good schematic for the rest of your system, beginning after the rectifier.

Anyway, sounds as you've got the rotor (field coil) wired as it wants to be now: magnetism! Hopefully you see proper charge voltage at the battery terminals. If so, you're done with this "little problem".

If no charge appears at the battery, let's back up and check stator output:
with the stator connector plugged in normally, check for AC volts between each white wire by sticking multimeter probes into appropriate holes in the connector block with bike running. You should see equal voltage readings of ~7VAC @ idle and perhaps ~10VAC @ 2500rpm.

No (or low) charge at the battery and no volts on any stator lead = possible faulty stator.

No charge at battery and good stator voltage = possible faulty reg/recifier combo unit.
 
OK, I guess the next step is to test it while running to see if it's charging properly, see if the output is regulated. I would ground the inner brush again full time. You can do that by simply putting the metal mounting screws back in. That will ground the brush to the stator housing. For this test, just disconnect the black wire from the brush, the one you've fed power into. As I think I mentioned in an earlier post, the inner brush doesn't get it's ground from that black wire that's run to it, the brush is grounded by it's 3 mounting screws. That black wire is actually picking up a ground and sending it to the regulator. But, if I recall correctly, you ran a separate ground wire for your reg/rec unit to the frame. So, you don't even need the black from the brush connected. For your test, disconnect it from the brush and insulate the end so it doesn't short to anything (since you have 12V power feeding into it now). If the regulator does test good now, and regulates the charge properly then you could go ahead and disconnect the 12V switched power from the black wire, re-ground it, and re-connect it to the inner brush. But like I said, you don't really even need that black wire connected to the inner brush, it is grounded already without it (once you put the original metal screws back in).
 
If you're talking about the brown wire to the regulator; it stays as is. It should be providing power to the regulator from switched, fused circuit

The brown wire that was formerly spliced to the black wired brush is now eliminated and should be removed
 
If you're talking about the brown wire to the regulator; it stays as is. It should be providing power to the regulator from switched, fused circuit

The brown wire that was formerly spliced to the black wired brush is now eliminated and should be removed
Ahhh ok , cool👍
Was laying in bed going through the job in my head and that thought occured💡
Gotta ride down the coast for a few hours later so I'm up and have a crack at it now.
Thanks Mate
 
What do I do with the black wire out of the regulator?
Connect it to the black brush and splice to ground?
Also have you @jpdevol read @5twins latest replies..
I'm confused as to what I'm doing , nylon or metal screws..
Don't wanna cook anything now we are so close..
If you could read each other's replies and let me know the conclusion..
In one complete unified simple directions
White to White
Green to Green
Red out of Reg is still feeding via 20A fuse to battery.
Brown from Reg is wired to switched power.
and Black from Reg is going to Black brush as well as frame ground....
If all this is correct and it's sounding so, then metal or nylon screws?
Do I need to know any more?
I'll stall off on the test till I get clear affirmations from you both..
So close but so far.......
 
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Black wire from regulator goes to ground, black brush wire goes to ground. I did see his comment on metal screw and it certainly can be as it's a ground too (i'm just trying to keep it simple). The green wire needs to be isolated from ground - I don't think the nylon screws are hurting anything at the moment. The two black wires can be spliced, but don't have to be (so long as continuity to battery negative)
 
Yes, black wire should be ground now, so disconnect it from the brown switched power. The reg/rec needs a ground as does the inner brush. If run to ground, the black wire will provide that to the reg/rec but needn't even be run to the inner brush if you change the nylon screws back to metal ones. They will ground the inner brush to the stator casting. As I said before (several times), on the original set-up, the black wire running to the inner brush isn't providing it with a ground, it's picking one up from the brush and sending it to the regulator. If you've provided the reg/rec unit with another ground, you don't even need the black wire run to the inner brush. That brush can just be mounted with no wires running to it.
 
Ok thanks...think I've got it..
Wont dive into it straight away but as I'm riding the Victory Cross Country down to Brunswick Heads, back later this afternoon, also the new intake boot for my other Victory Kingpin is due to arrive today, I've clued my neighbours in on both sides to keep an eye out for a FEDEX truck.
It's all coming together in more ways than one....
I'll let you all know how I go Thanks again
 
Nightrider
 

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Yamaha is still working good and charging ,yes.
Thanks everyone👍🙂

Have electrical problems with the 2006 Victory now.
And being that it's got an ECU and fuel injection its way more challenging to fix.
There's a lot to be said for old school motorbikes when it comes to finding faults.
Though this one is looking like a short in the wiring around the steering head area, just the circumstances of how it's evolved are quite strange.
Fortunately the Yammy and the other Victory are still mobile.
 
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