Oil, drain plug, crush rings

[weekendrider]

Just got a quote of $7.93 apiece for the copper crush seal from the Yamaha shop. Yes Mikes is cheaper till you figure shipping then the dealer wins. Don't need or want enough stuff to get free shipping so....
Some seaching is in order. Ain't this site GREAT!

Yes, usually the seal ring or gasket on the plug is worn out so the P.O. over-tightens it to try and compensate. When you order a new pair, order 2 pairs so you always have an extra on hand.

@ 5twins, have you found a alternate source for these? I assume since you mentioned pairs you are talking Mikes?

Once you get the plug out (and either way works, pipe extension on your breaker bar or remove sump /use vice to hold) If you don't have the proper copper sealing washer, in a pinch you can use a viton (rubber) "O" ring. Take the drain plug to farm store or hardware store and find a "O" ring that fits a little snug. I prefer farm store O rings because they usually for hydraulic use, were as hardware store O rings are usually for plumbing service. I've run many hundreds or miles using the O ring method while waiting for the copper seals to arrive.

@ Purplezinger, Would you consider the o-ring as a permenant replacement part? Not meaning buy one and use it forever, but switching to o-rings as oppossed to the copper crush ring?

As a side thought if switching to o-rings would you want to bevel the drain holes alittle?

I think it was me that mentioned the o-ring fix, but I turn a groove in the flange of the plug so as not to smash the o-ring. I have also heated copper washers red hot to soften them up.

Why wouldn't you recommend an o-ring ? I have done this to my last 3 650's, no oil leaks. I think most of the new engines run o-rings instead of gaskets. I think an o-ring is a clean,easy fix, and you don't have to crank the plugs down so tight that you risk stripping the threads.

@ Dusty, So I had it bass ackwards? The trick is to channel the plug, not bevel the base?




And finally a word from a master.
Another jewel copied and saved.
Thanks Grizld1!

Re. annealing copper washers, gaskets, etc.: heat cherry red and quench. Quenching hardens steel but softens copper; it ain't the same stuff. The crush washers from Mike's XS aren't copper (they look like aluminum with a copper wash?), so don't try the annealing process on those. I have OEM washers with 30-plus years on 'em that work just fine.

 

[XSLeo]

If you take the drain plug to the parts store they have an assortment of copper washers in the help section. I haven't looked to close yet but you might try looking.
I have cut gaskets for other things like that from cereal boxes. That will work in a pinch.
There is a guy, Dogbunny, over at the Garage that is making temp gauge dip sticks. I think that gasket is the same as the drain plug. He has a hole punch that cuts both the inside diameter as well as the outside at the same time. If they are the same size then he might be able to use his punch to cut washers out of copper. Won't hurt to ask.
Leo

 

[retiredgentleman]

Pamcopete posted this source for drain plug copper gaskets.

www.aircraftspruce.com
part # AN900-19
1 13/16" ID
78 cents each

I could not get a leak free seal from the gasket that Mikesxs sells.........they're too thick and too hard.

I had an Athena gasket kit left over from a top end re-build. 5twins said to try the drain plug gaskets in that kit. I had not even noticed the drain plug gaskets in the kit. When I tried them, they sealed perfectly, using 40 ft-lbs torque. I"ve been using them for the last couple of years with no oil leakage at all. They are the phenolic type. I would like to find a source for the phenolic gaskets.

Edited on Oct 20/11................Correct ID is 1 3/16"

 

[glennpd]

Pamcopete posted this source for drain plug copper gaskets.

www.aircraftspruce.com
part # AN900-19
1 13/16" ID
78 cents each

I could not get a leak free seal from the gasket that Mikesxs sells.........they're too thick and too hard.

I had an Athena gasket kit left over from a top end re-build. 5twins said to try the drain plug gaskets in that kit. I had not even noticed the drain plug gaskets in the kit. When I tried them, they sealed perfectly, using 40 ft-lbs torque. I"ve been using them for the last couple of years with no oil leakage at all. They are the phenolic type. I would like to find a source for the phenolic gaskets.

Hi

I was just doing some research regarding a small leak I have in a "new" bike and suspect the drain bolt crush washer. I found this thread and followed the link to the AN900-19 washer and the ID is 1 3/16 not 1 13/16. If we really need 1 13/16 we should purchase the AN900-29.

I will be buying some but for now I am not sure as to what size the drain hole is. 1 3/16 sounds about right. 1 13/16 sounds too large.

Thanks

Glenn

 

[Hairyblackdude]

Ive always taken a blow torch to used copper O-rings to "revive" them, heat em up until they glow...

I recently did it to both of the drain bolt washers.. They were seeping a little bit. I noticed they weren't SOLID like others, but almost a 2 piece or "crush" like described above..

Put them back on & everything is good.. Its been several weeks & not a drop.

 

[glennpd]

Ive always taken a blow torch to used copper O-rings to "revive" them, heat em up until they glow...

I recently did it to both of the drain bolt washers.. They were seeping a little bit. I noticed they weren't SOLID like others, but almost a 2 piece or "crush" like described above..

Put them back on & everything is good.. Its been several weeks & not a drop.

Thanks

I will give the "red hot" quench method a try. Too easy !

Glenn

 

[5twins]

#AN900-19 is the proper part # and 1 3/16" is the right I.D. for our drain plugs. I don't know why Pete doesn't correct that post (or the moderators), it's very confusing and misleading.

I ordered a bunch of these last summer. Shipping is dirt cheap from this place, about a dollar, so you can get a dozen of these washers for about $10. They are slightly smaller (thinner) than the MikesXS ones but work fine, and the price is right.

 

[pamcopete]

Hi

I was just doing some research regarding a small leak I have in a "new" bike and suspect the drain bolt crush washer. I found this thread and followed the link to the AN900-19 washer and the ID is 1 3/16 not 1 13/16. If we really need 1 13/16 we should purchase the AN900-29.

I will be buying some but for now I am not sure as to what size the drain hole is. 1 3/16 sounds about right. 1 13/16 sounds too large.

Thanks

Glenn

It's the AN900-19 (1 3/16) that you want. They are only 88 cents each, so buy 10 to mitigate the shipping cost. The 19 is 19 X 1/16 = 1 /3/16" 5twins...that was RG's post, blesss his heart!!

 

[retiredgentleman]

On no, I guess I have egg on my face I hate to post incorrect info for the lads on the site. Not sure how I got the numbers wrong.

Thanks to glennpd, 5twins and pamcopete for getting us back on track.
Cheers

 

[xjwmx]

^Yaoughta fix it in this thread as well in case somebody looking for the size doesn't look any farther down the thread once they see it.

Also, some smaller ID ones are common, but as large as 1 3/16" ID is hard to find locally. I got a smaller one for free from somebody and hogged it out with a Dremel tool, leaving about 1/8" or so left to seal. It seems to be working ok. I left the copper hard though (no annealing).

 

[Ghetto]

I have yet had to replace mine on any of them,,

Knocks on wood!

 

[racerdave]

Finding this thread a little more than 2 1/2 years later. Those copper washers spec'd by Pete are now $1.31 each. I just used 2 from Mikes XS. Waiting to see see if they are leak free. I actually came across this thread after searching for oil drain plug torque values. I could not find it in the Clymer. Found out it is 32 #'s.

 

[Terrible1]

Per 5twins measurement of 37x30x1 mm I went to my local hydaulic hose shop after driving around town chasing myself.

I found them for $2.15 each. They are not the round style that Yamaha/MikesXS sell, as they are just flat like the other copper crush washers that I have used. I really dont have much to add to this post other than dont forget to check the industrial hose shop that may be in your town.

They are labeled as M30 copper crush washers. The guy said no way he had them but checked anyways and was surprised as I was he had em. I will report back on the life/leakage/usage of these to anyone who may be interested.

 

[payaso13]

I'm interested. ...changed mine out months ago with mikes xs ones...been weeping since...they seem to thick but not sure what shop did you go to if your in vegas nv?

 

[Terrible1]

I'm interested. ...changed mine out months ago with mikes xs ones...been weeping since...they seem to thick but not sure what shop did you go to if your in vegas nv?

All hose on Post road, near Fastenal. Nice to see another Vegas xs'r

 

[payaso13]

Thanks man. yeah my buddy has a 79xs hardtail in town we been working on to. Have to meet up sometime

 

[Terrible1]

Thanks man. yeah my buddy has a 79xs hardtail in town we been working on to. Have to meet up sometime

Nice. I'm building another out of boredom. I ride the 74 often got a few buddies who ride but they're on HDs n Sport bikes. Any place in town to get parts/supplies?

PM me and let's keep this thread on track

 

[fredintoon]

Yeah, I annealed mine until I chickened out and bought new ones from the Yamaha dealer.
I told them, "these don't look right, mine look like plain ol' flat copper washers."
"And that's what these will look like after you've installed them."
But what you could use is Dowty washers:-
http://hydraulicmegastore.com/metric-dowty-bonded-seals.html
(that's a UK site but McMaster-Carr stocks them too.)
They'd work on the head nuts, too.

 

[doctavee]

just ordered mine! thanks dudes! go fast and take chances!

 

[NorazDad]

Just ordered and received a dozen from aircraft, etc. Question is, should the opening in the ring go toward the engine or toward the plug?
I'm thinking engine...
Thanks