Oil seeping question

[Orion61]

I have an XS650B 1975, I have a slight oil seep at the lower head gasket. It isn't bad but on a 100 mile ride I get a drop or two of oil on the toe of my shoe. It is on the left side. City driving it might have just enough for a wiping of a tissue after riding around all day.
Here is my (ask a stupid question instead of making a stupid mistake) question
I am wondering if a head re-torque will fix it? I know the torque sequence and how many foot lbs.
Should I continue to use the pattern as specified or tighten the left bolts first, (or 1/2 way to tight first, or add an extra 5 lbs torque to the large bolt and 2 to the smaller bolts by the leak? I sure don't want to warp a head or cylinder!
I am 55 now and this is supposed to be my "Forever XS" It is all stock except the front crash bar and rear Chrome shelf. A Dr. had it, A true one Owner 11k on her. It truly is a beautiful bike and the best of all the 650s I have owned in the past 37 years (at least 6 of them).
A Million thanks,
Cousin Larry

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Hey, Larry. You might want to be sure of the leak source first. Tensioner gasket weep can give the impression of base gasket leakage. Try a forum search on "talcum"...

 

[grizld1]

Talcum: It's not just for baby butts anymore!

Sorry, Larry, but what's a "lower head gasket"? 2M interpreted that as the base gasket, is that what you meant? Re. torque pattern: inside to outside, opposite to opposite to tighten, outside to inside to loosen. Just follow the pattern and bring the large fasteners to book torque first, then to 28 ftlbs. Go as high as 30 later if you have to. You'll need to fool with head torque less often if you replace the rubber covered washers on the 4 outside studs with copper sealing washers; Suzuki part no. 09168-10017 is a perfect fit. Once you have all the fasteners evenly torqued you can remove one nut at a time to replace the washer.

 

[B Burdine97]

The suzuki sealing washers work great I ordered some last week and installed them. I retourqed my head to 30 ft. Pounds, cracked the bolts loose one at a time, used anti sieze, retourqed to factory spec one at a time then in increments until 30 on the 8 acorn nuts. Took it for a ride and still had a leak! Did same procedure and tightened the 8 acorn nuts to 33 ft pounds instead, and still had a leak! What the heck. It weeps out between the left side cylinder jug and cylinder head. After a 20 miles ride it was enough to see the oil running down the side of the engine. Bad cylinder head gasket?

 

[peanut]

The cylinder and head probably didn't get skimmed the last time it was built.
If you want a long lasting leak free solution you are going to have to bite the bullet and put new gaskets in. Make sure you skim the head and cylinder faces at least on a wet n dry block to remove high spots and apply threebond to both sides of the gasket around the camchain tunnel and the head bolt holes . Belt and braces works best in my experience

 

[5twins]

There are a couple bolts under the spark plugs you have to do too. But even after all that yes, sometimes the gasket is beyond "quick" fixing and needs replacing.

 

[fredintoon]

Hi Cousin Larry,
re-torqueing the head can't hurt anything, may even work to stop or reduce an oil leak and should be done every long time now and again anyway.
Be sure to replace the four composite sealing washers with copper washers or Dowty seals.

 

[Orion61]

Yes I am sure, it is the gasket between the bottom of the head and the crank case, It leaks in a small spot about 1/4 inch long, I have lived with it and It doesn't seem to be getting any worse, (I have owned the bike for over 20 years, and I know It hasn't ever been apart. I bought it from the original owner
with under 3000 miles on it, it has 11,000 now.
I got out of a Speeding ticket with it one time, I was on my way home for lunch break and I got stopped by a cop. He asked me if I knew how fast I was going? I told him I was just trying to be safe, He asked "How is that"? I said I was just trying to keep 2 seconds between my bike

Hey, Larry. You might want to be sure of the leak source first. Tensioner gasket weep can give the impression of base gasket leakage. Try a forum search on "talcum"...

Talcum: It's not just for baby butts anymore!

Sorry, Larry, but what's a "lower head gasket"? 2M interpreted that as the base gasket, is that what you meant? Re. torque pattern: inside to outside, opposite to opposite to tighten, outside to inside to loosen. Just follow the pattern and bring the large fasteners to book torque first, then to 28 ftlbs. Go as high as 30 later if you have to. You'll need to fool with head torque less often if you replace the rubber covered washers on the 4 outside studs with copper sealing washers; Suzuki part no. 09168-10017 is a perfect fit. Once you have all the fasteners evenly torqued you can remove one nut at a time to replace the washer.

and the car behind me...
He shook his head, laughed and told me that was the best one he had ever heard, then gave me a warning...

 

[5twins]

If it really is the base gasket between the cylinders and the engine block then only the 8 large acorn nuts on top of the head apply pressure to that. They are the only fasteners on long studs that run all the way down to the block.