OK, I', stumped

roadstar06

roadstar06

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here's the problem-bike stalls when put in 1st gear- clutch plates sticking? that's what I thought what else can cause this>??? took right cover off dis-assemble clutch pack 7 fiber-6 steel (2fo) motor-long rod upgrade.discs out big washer,bearing,washer, remove hub can't get large spacer off?? came right out when I pulled motor apart for rebuild? any tricks to get this pc. off?? 2 washers behind are correct as I did alot of reading to find correct sequence. not sure why hub spacer is locked on shaft? ok, so I put it all back together torque nut to 56lbs. according to popular posts. side cover still off, put in 2nd gear can turn rear wheel but very hard (rear wheel off ground and clutch lever pulled in mind you) put in 3rd a bit easier,4th easier still 5th easier still-bump it down to 1st and its a bear! have clutch adjusted properly althought not crazy about how it sits in adjuster space and adj. spring appears to be a bit worn or stretched (I don't know how it should look or feel new) any input would be much appreciated. thanks...Q:#2--I lowered front shock 3in. how much oil do i add? and what do you use to measure fluid I can't find a cc measure tube.
 
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.. does your clutch assmy have a index ..small hole in the clutch outer plate and a small " o " on the basket.. ?
 
On the spacers behind the clutch hub, the narrow one 1st then the large one... just checking.. did you do anything else, I once put the starter gear in wrong when I replaced the worn gear. on the fork fluid I use a 20 fork oil , and fill it this way. with the springs out and the forks collapse fill to 4 1/2" from the top.
 
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hooser said:
On the spacers behind the clutch hub, the narrow one 1st then the large one... just checking.. did you do anything else, I once put the starter gear in wrong when I replaced the worn gear. on the fork fluid I use a 20 fork oil , and fill it this way. with the springs out and the forks collapse fill to 4 1/2" from the top.
Click to expand...
correct yes narrow then fat one,thanks
 
TwoManyXS1Bs said:
How far out does the pressure plate move?

Some examples (1st post):

http://www.xs650.com/threads/yamaha-xs650-experimental-clutch.47498/
Click to expand...
Hi 2m-yes it moves the same as in video #1 , has at least 2mm of movement when lever is pulled- with bike running put into 1st. will give it gas, bike tries to roll but stalls- tried to break loose with front tire up against work bench gave it lots of rpm holding clutch lever in put in 1st crack the throttle will stay running but once you let up on throttle will stall out- Q: when I switched to long rod i compared it to 2pc. and to get equal size I had to use 1 ball bearing w/long rod-is that correct or is it rod only??
 
clutch sequence.jpg
roadstar06 said:
hub spacer w/ spiral oil passage
Click to expand...
could you refer to the image and tell us the number of the part so there is no misunderstanding ;)

Q: when I switched to long rod i compared it to 2pc. and to get equal size I had to use 1 ball bearing w/long rod-is that correct or is it rod only??

You should remove 1 ball bearing only,..... the one that normally fits between the 2x shorter rods.
Make sure that the 2x other ball bearings are present . One in the actual worm arm and the other at the mushroom end of the shaft. Also make sure you get the long rod the correct way round. The narrower end should fit in the worm
 
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ahhhhh ..........that isn't a shim its the phosper bronze bearing that carries the hub :)
That is what was confusing me.
If the bronze bearing is stuck it means it must have run dry of oil and seized .. it should run freely on the shaft acting as a bearing .
You may need to heat it up and maybe prise it out with a screwdriver to remove it I doubt you'll get a puller on it
 
peanut said:
ahhhhh ..........that isn't a shim its the phosper bronze bearing that carries the hub :)
That is what was confusing me.
If the bronze bearing is stuck it means it must have run dry of oil and seized .. it should run freely on the shaft acting as a bearing .
You may need to heat it up and maybe prise it out with a screwdriver to remove it I doubt you'll get a puller on it
Click to expand...
don't know how that could seize but I guess anything is possible, will try heat today see what happens, thanks
 
its a mystery for sure but I'd like to see a picture of the journal when you do get it off. its possible that you may have had some fine aluminium particles suspended in the oil which may have jammed it or its over heated or more likely it just didn't get enough oil at some point .

There has been some interesting debates on a classic scooter forum recently about engine seizing on sustained high speed runs due to using synthetic oils . Many classic scooters these days have 225cc or 250cc high performance 25+bhp engines that cruise at 85mph + and they were never designed for that
 
Peanut!

peanut said:
...If the bronze bearing is stuck it means it must have run dry of oil and seized .. it should run freely on the shaft acting as a bearing ...
Click to expand...

#3 is steel. Check with magnet.
The bushing in the basket #4 is bronze, with lil' dimples in it.

When everything is assembled and nut #11 is tightened, the bearing spacer #3 is tightly clamped between thick washers #2 and #7, so it now is locked to the mainshaft, and spins with it.

Where spacer #3 fits onto the mainshaft, there's a small oiling hole in the mainshaft. A piece of grit getting in there could make removal of spacer #3 difficult...
 
TwoManyXS1Bs said:
Peanut!



#3 is steel. Check with magnet.
The bushing in the basket #4 is bronze, with lil' dimples in it.

.
Click to expand...

yes you're right of course. I was going from memory and not looking at my own diagram.
The phosphor bronze bearing is of course fitted inside the clutch basket.
There has to be bronze somewhere between the surfaces cos you don't use steel to steel on reciprocating parts;)
 

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