kvanderploeg
The Dutch Terror
5twins got ya answered. Now go put the timing light on it! 
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post carb cleaning, trouble
- Thread starter emzdogz
- Start date
-
- Tags
- carbs enrichener firing
kvanderploeg
The Dutch Terror
Ahhh, the suspense is killing me!
Kent
Kent
OK,I did it. Put the timing light on it.
Light shows it in the same place on both sides. Just slightly to the right of the mark by F. This is just at idle.
At first I thought the right (bad) side was showing farther that way (a bit farther to the right) but then I did the left again, and nope they're just the same, near as I can tell. When I trigger the light, it shows the mark just a tad to the right of the mark by the F.
Also, bent that guard by brushes back into shape.
Will check valves again tomorrow. Maybe later today.
Light shows it in the same place on both sides. Just slightly to the right of the mark by F. This is just at idle.
At first I thought the right (bad) side was showing farther that way (a bit farther to the right) but then I did the left again, and nope they're just the same, near as I can tell. When I trigger the light, it shows the mark just a tad to the right of the mark by the F.
Also, bent that guard by brushes back into shape.
Will check valves again tomorrow. Maybe later today.
kvanderploeg
The Dutch Terror
Thanks for satisfying my morbid curiousity, Emz...
Kent
Kent
kvanderploeg
The Dutch Terror
I sure wish it would have been different too.
Kent
Kent
trying to figure out if, because of good compression readings, I can actually rule out that something is wrong that would require top end tear-down. I'm also going to pull that bad side exhaust pipe tomorrow, too - on the off chance something got in there and is plugging it up.
Also tomorrow IF it will start, I'm going to let it run much longer on the choke, to see if the R and L sides both run more nearly equal temp under choke, or if the cold R side is just while idling on pilot circuit.
Also tomorrow IF it will start, I'm going to let it run much longer on the choke, to see if the R and L sides both run more nearly equal temp under choke, or if the cold R side is just while idling on pilot circuit.
If I put my finger against the breather at top back of engine (no tube or filter on it) should I feel puffs of air as the engine runs?
Also, mysteriously, without me fixing anything, the engine no longer leaks from the clutch push rod seal when I run it.
All former problems are still there, and additionally I now have gas in the oil.
Getting ready to start over after reading a couple of threads - even do another compression check....but was just wondering if as the bike runs, I should be able to feel air from the breather.
thanks!
Also, mysteriously, without me fixing anything, the engine no longer leaks from the clutch push rod seal when I run it.
All former problems are still there, and additionally I now have gas in the oil.
Getting ready to start over after reading a couple of threads - even do another compression check....but was just wondering if as the bike runs, I should be able to feel air from the breather.
thanks!
kvanderploeg
The Dutch Terror
I'd say as long as you have spark plugs in you should feel air coming out.
Kent
Kent
kvanderploeg
The Dutch Terror
Should be pretty easy to see if there is a clog. Are you feeling nothing when turning the engine over? Everything else is buttoned up on the engine (dipstick, spark plugs, etc.)?
Kent
Kent
definitely not feeling anything obvious, as I've had hands in that area quite a bit while running (while, for instance adjusting carb balance screw) There's definitely no easily discernible, obvious puff puff puff and never any oil. However I will check it later.
thanks, Kent
thanks, Kent
On the breather, yes you should feel air puffing out as the engine runs.
As the pistons move down, they compress the air in the crankcase, the air moves up through the cam chain tunnel into the head then out the breather. When the pistons go up they air flows the other way.
Without a breather the air pressure inside will find a way out. Like blow out seals or weak spots in gaskets.
On the stcok bikes, early used a long hose. The air flowing through the breather has a fine oil mist in it. This oil mist collects on the inside of the long hose and acts like a filter to minimize outside crud from getting back inside the engine.
On the later models they ran the hose into the airboxes. The returning air was cleaned by the air filters.
I as well as others use a power brake check valve on the breather. A short section of the stock breather hose is just the right size to fit the input side of the check valve. The outlet is 3/8 inch, I ran a 3/8 inch hose from there down to the rear of and below the engine and to one side so any oil mist that gets out of the hose won't get on the rear tire.
Others use enough of the stock hose to position the check valve over the pod filter and any oil mist drops on the filter.
The check valve lets air flow out of the engine and not back in. The creates a small vaccum inside the crank case. This helps the engine run better, something about helping the rings seal better. The vaccum also helps prevent oil from seeping out oil seals and weak spots in gaskets.
You can get the check valve at most parts stores. It's right on the rack most places. In the HELP section. Item #80190 Power Brake Check Valve.
Looks like this.
Leo
As the pistons move down, they compress the air in the crankcase, the air moves up through the cam chain tunnel into the head then out the breather. When the pistons go up they air flows the other way.
Without a breather the air pressure inside will find a way out. Like blow out seals or weak spots in gaskets.
On the stcok bikes, early used a long hose. The air flowing through the breather has a fine oil mist in it. This oil mist collects on the inside of the long hose and acts like a filter to minimize outside crud from getting back inside the engine.
On the later models they ran the hose into the airboxes. The returning air was cleaned by the air filters.
I as well as others use a power brake check valve on the breather. A short section of the stock breather hose is just the right size to fit the input side of the check valve. The outlet is 3/8 inch, I ran a 3/8 inch hose from there down to the rear of and below the engine and to one side so any oil mist that gets out of the hose won't get on the rear tire.
Others use enough of the stock hose to position the check valve over the pod filter and any oil mist drops on the filter.
The check valve lets air flow out of the engine and not back in. The creates a small vaccum inside the crank case. This helps the engine run better, something about helping the rings seal better. The vaccum also helps prevent oil from seeping out oil seals and weak spots in gaskets.
You can get the check valve at most parts stores. It's right on the rack most places. In the HELP section. Item #80190 Power Brake Check Valve.
Looks like this.
Leo
Attachments
thanks XSLeo, yes my bike used to have a hose on it too, but with just a filter at the end. When the bike ran before I noticed nothing ever seemed to be in the filter and now when I run it (when I can get it to run) it seems nothing comes out.
Next time it runs - (probably today or tomorrow), I will put my finger by it and see if I can feel it puff.
Next time it runs - (probably today or tomorrow), I will put my finger by it and see if I can feel it puff.
OK, em, you know the ignition is firing when it should. In your system, both plugs are fired at the same time, from the same coil. Now do what you should have done to start with: switch the plug caps from one side to the other and see if the problem changes sides. If it does, you have an ignition issue; probably bad plug, plug wire, or cap.
Have done this already. Nothing changes. Always sparks the same no matter what.
Have swapped just the caps, then another time swapped the entire wire & cap (detaching them from coil), and also have swapped plugs many times - as well as just crossing/swapping the wires over the top of the engine (just switching side to side). So I've tried the swapping.
thx!
ps:
I think I am going to try 6 heat range plugs next time I get by the auto parts store. (instead of the 7's)
pps: I still think it may be carb related/trying again tonight
Put a different set of BS 34's on today, that a kind person let me borrow in order just to see what would happen. Anyway after a little fiddling, it now runs on both cyls.
Still lots of work to do. But the right cylinder LIVES!!!!!!!!!!!
yay. Thanks to all who went through this thread patiently with me. Maybe it will help someone else. I learned a heck of a lot from this thread and all the "maybe's".
This is now the 2nd XS I've owned where putting a different set of carbs on "cured" my problem.
Coincidence? I doubt it.... but I cleaned the heck out of my carbs, over and over...so, not sure what the problem is.
In any case, I am relieved!
Still lots of work to do. But the right cylinder LIVES!!!!!!!!!!!
yay. Thanks to all who went through this thread patiently with me. Maybe it will help someone else. I learned a heck of a lot from this thread and all the "maybe's".
This is now the 2nd XS I've owned where putting a different set of carbs on "cured" my problem.
Coincidence? I doubt it.... but I cleaned the heck out of my carbs, over and over...so, not sure what the problem is.
In any case, I am relieved!
TurboFarviknugn
XS650 Addict
Would be interesting to send the carbs to one of the GURU's here and have them do an AUTOTOPSY to see what exactly is wrong.
CONGRATS on having the issue solved, and BLESS the kind soul who lent you a replacement set of carbs !
CONGRATS on having the issue solved, and BLESS the kind soul who lent you a replacement set of carbs !
