Princess Auto fuse block

lakeview

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I am going through my wiring on my 78 Special and have found a bad spot as shown. This question though is about changing out the glass fuses. I saw this modern fuse block. When I looked at it in the store it seemed ideal, but on better examination and thought at home, I realize that it has a common input buss. So the question I have is whether I can combine all 4 inputs and terminate them on the silver post and then take the individual out wires and fit them on the block with insulated spade terminals and the appropriate fuse.
My concern is that combining all 4 inputs to a common terminal may overload or short something. From what I know of wiring theory, it should be OK, but I would like another opinion on this.
Picture also shows the deteriorating wiring which I will take care of, but this question is about replacing the glass fuses.
 

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I baught the same block from napa, Keyed power to silver post, then leads to accessories. Had no problems.
 
Hi lakeview,
The stock fuse set up has the 20A fuse sending power to the keyswitch.
All the 10A fuses are bussed together by the way they are wired but they are only "hot" when the key is on and feeding them power through the 20A fuse.
From how you describe the Princess Auto fuseblock it will bypass the keyswitch so all the fuses will be "hot" all the time?
BTW, can you access the Princess Auto fuseblock's common busbar to cut it so as to isolate one of the fuse slots and use the isolated slot for the 20A fuse?
FWIW, when I get around to a "preventitive maintenance upgrade" on my Heritage Special's glass tube fuses I plan to use one of Scallywag303's 3-way waterproof mini-fuse holders for the three 10A fuses and one of his single holders for the 20A.
 
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Fred, that is exactly the point of the question and thanks for that insight. You have articulated my confusion.

The fuse block is one piece of plastic so accessing the common buss would destroy it.

Unless I put the keyed hot line on the buss pole and then connected all 4 lines to the fused out side, which I think is what Angus 67 has done.
 
Fred, that is exactly the point of the question and thanks for that insight. You have articulated my confusion.

The fuse block is one piece of plastic so accessing the common buss would destroy it.

Unless I put the keyed hot line on the buss pole and then connected all 4 lines to the fused out side, which I think is what Angus 67 has done.

Hi Lakeview,
hmmm, you mean feed the keyswitch direct then wire back to the common buss on your 4-way?
OK, best put a separate 20A fuse in the keyswitch line and use the 4-way for the three 10A fuses and use the fourth slot to keep a spare fuse in?
Is it possible to isolate one fuse location by using a cutting wheel on a Dremel tool to cut a slot through the common buss from the back of the fuse block and then sealing the slot with epoxy?
BTW, I just noticed, your photo shows a 6-way?
 
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2 spares for the radio and cell phone charger, lol.
Looks like I return this item and go to plan b which is to wire fuses into each circuit, keep it simple.
Thanks to all for the input.
 
Get this type.

73810.jpg


Hot from battery through one fuse then to key switch, back to common feed the rest of the fuses, wires exactly like the original and you can get it in 5 or 6 fuse versions for more circuits.
 
You can just move the wires off the old to the new one at a time, done. Easy peasy.
 
Get this type.

73810.jpg


Hot from battery through one fuse then to key switch, back to common feed the rest of the fuses, wires exactly like the original and you can get it in 5 or 6 fuse versions for more circuits.

Where did you get that one. I have been looking for that. I redid mine with one similar but it was the put together yourself type. I am not happy with how loose it all is in in there.
 
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