Projekt XSive build thread:

It's actually pretty sweet looking. The angles are not quite perfect, annd I now see what tweaks I can do to them to get em right. But it's just what I wanted, a non-permanent but fully complete model of my paint 'theme'. :thumbsup:
 
Update time again:

I had the front half of the frame sandblasted for $4 dollars. I know, it's crazy, but I drove an hour with the frame in the trunk of my Stang just to get it done. And this was the evening before my 9am welding appointment. Lucked out there... The guy was already blasting some farm equip and he simply took about 6 minutes to blast my lil old motorbike frame :D

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We stuffed a rag thru the steering neck, and this is how it helped, what do you guys think?
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And........WELDING TIME!
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And as soon as I got it home, I just HAD to throw as many parts as I could onto it just to see ;)

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Now that was 5 days ago. Between then and now I've done a little more work on some things, including painting the wheels, and fabricating my mid-control mounts out of the stock cast peg assembly. Over at XS650chopper there is a thread about how to do this mod, and I kinda loved the idea, and the pieces were just laying there, so what the hell! Heres a few shots of the steps I took:

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I also decided to clean up the triple clamps, so I did just that. I started on the lower one, and ground off everything but the 'stops' for the steering movement. Here's a few more shots. These are grinder with 1/8th inch cutoff wheel, followed by flapper discs (80 grit) and followed by a random orbital hand sander.

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Next came the carb cleaning and rebuild. I used an ultrasonic pulsing parts cleaning machine. (Operates somewhat like a microwave, and boils water ONLY at the surface of the objects submerged in it. So every little orifice that's underwater is boiling at the surface) Then rebuilt as stock:

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Then came the painting of the wheels, front wheel first, followed by front rotor, then rear brake drum and wheel:

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There was a slight dimensional problem with using the ammo-can I originally wanted to use and interference with the chain. It just wouldn't work without cutting holes in the box, which I didn't want to do very bad. So digging around the shop and I find an old fire-extinguisher to use as an oil-can, but rather than paint it with the bike, I'm going to modify it to look EXACTLY like a nitrous bottle. Bright blue paint, and orange and white labels. :thumbsup: I will have what little wiring is on the bike inside of it, and the bundle that comes out will be thru one of those AN fittings (blue and red anodized) with a 90* elbow and covered in stainless braided line so it honestly looks like I have N20 plumbed into my engine, lol!

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And last but not least are some updated overall shots, and this is the stance I want when it's all said and done.

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Stay tuned for the next action packed thriller in this epic journey through cheap-bobber-building!

Logan
 
Great work man! Good to see this bike progressing quickly. That's one thing about my projects, they take forever to complete. Once of these days I need to build something simple that will move along like yours.

Keep up with the pics and work!
 
Thank you Yamaha_Chop, I am moving somewhat, er, FAST with this one. Because I want to ride it while the snow is gone!

Things move real quick when you have lots of green in your pocket too... I DON'T, so thats actually damping my speed here. Start til now is under a month so far :thumbsup::wink2:

Logan
 
I know it's too late now, but, the bosses you ground off of the triple trees are nice to use as a headlight mount. And I see that the crossmember under the seat was fully welded in.( it's usually just tacked) Have you fitted the seat? I had to move mine quite a bit. Cool idea about the nitrous bottle look.
 
Tech7 - Yeah The headlight mount idea probably would've worked out using those old bosses, but my mad-scientist mind has a different idea that will clamp to the fork cylinder itself on either side to hold the light. Custom handmade parts for sure.

And the brace came tack welded when I received it, and after welding the frame pieces together, measuring and checking the dimensions, and correctly spacing the rear axle plates, I had it fully welded in place. There should be no reason I couldn't have, as I can most definitely still mount a seat (and my oil-tank idea) from this bar.

Now I feel like I shot down both your ideas, but not really. Just the way I happen to be building :thumbsup:

Thanks!
 
Now I think whenever my frame and tank get too bad after my rattle can job starts wearing I'm going to get a couple rolls of black duct tape and tape it up..
 
Hey, my $8 paint job looks pretty damn good for being tape. And over 5 feet away you couldn't tell it was tape unless you either knew or were looking specifically at it.

Meh, I'm happy enough with it! :D
 
I didn't mean to sound defensive or angry in my reply, totally casual! Internet has a tendency to take things out of context sometimes :S

Thanks for the compliment and Blake tape will do fine on your simple fix! Plus it'll look half-badass too ;)

Posted via Mobile
 
- duct tape...good for lotsa stuff, except ducts-glue melts with heat
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- duct camper
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Update time, this thread was way back on page 5....sheesh!

Okay, I've gotten some things accomplished. I drained the oil for the first time. Man alive that 27mm nut was a bitch to break free. My 'cheater bar' was like 4 feet long! Anyway, I drained it into a funnel so I could watch how much debris came out with it, and I noticed it smelled of gasoline. Not TOO much, and only at the beginning, as it continued to drain the smell disappeared. My initial reaction was "Oh great, the rings are shot..." (my girlfriend sitting next to me is like "How do you know that, your just changing the oil aren't you?" haha) But I still can't be sure from just that little note. As it slowed down the funnel side showed my anticipated results. Little pieces of plastic were in the oil suggesting a bad cam chain guide. I'd greatly appreciate a crash course in how these work and methods of checking/replacing so I can do that before filling it back with oil.

I also pulled the filter (well, the whole side cover actually) which looked like this:
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And after all this work, I've got the bike as such:
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As I inspected the mechanics under the right side cover, I come across this:
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Anybody know what broke here? The spring isn't connected to the plate to the left of the photo, as I assume it should be. What part is it and what will this cause? I am hoping to replace the spring to fix this.

Next came the starter block off. As you so often hear, she will be KICK ONLY. So heres a few action shots (greasy hands on the iPhone not much fun):
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And the kickstarter assembly. This should be left intact, and reinstalled as it came out, in reverse order, if my mind works correctly:
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I also received and installed the 'meat and potatoes' of the PAMCO (Kit 14-0902):
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And I need to KNOW and then subsequently DO the rest of the install....please help :confused:

I went to my local hardware store and found these types of clamps for the coil:
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And this is where I sit now. Need help to make progress!

Logan
 
- dont forget your sump filter-may be holed-sits on the sump plate you will need to remove

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- both the following springs must be intact
- selector return spring

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- shift shaft spring

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- and the selector shift claw must be centered
 
inxs - I'm sitting here with my laptop and bike, right now, looking at it. I have the clutch still on the bike and don't want to take it off unless I really have to. It seems like I could easily replace the spring without removing the clutch at all. Is that the way to go about it? And if so, will a jaunt to my local hardware store yield such a spring (in the correct tension and length) ?
 
- these springs can be fiddly, generally better to remove the clutch as you will need to check the selector shift claw for adjustment
 
Okay all that's left is to find somewhere that has the right spring! I think a hardware store could probably have one, unless mikesXS carries them I'd get it from him.

Thanks for the help inxs.

Posted via Mobile
 
wow, pretty picture-intensive build. which is good. Mikes should have that spring. hes got damn-near everything for these bikes. I too like the taint job! keep the updates coming!
 
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