pulling motor and other questions

[Bob Kelly III]

that was well handled Weekendrider ! I think I would have taken offence ! ...that just shows I need more work ! LOL
Bob........

 

[ron bayless]

A few things to go over
1.I was kidding,I hope ya'll know that.
2.I dont know more than you guys about this motorcycle project and fixing it.Maybe more than weekender, but not anyone else.
3.I am posting a picture,dont know what it is.I got my clymers yesterday,it is not shown in the book.Also I found the red white and blue white that goes to the starter button.For some reason the red white that disappears under the tank and I assume makes its way eventually up to the starter button has a long piece of wire long enough to reach the solenoid spliced in.As if it was intended to reach the solenoid.And why? I will be back.forgot to download the picture.

 

[ron bayless]

what is this.not shown in my new clymers I got yesterday

 

[gggGary]

Yeah clymers isn't complete, does not have section on grime and grit. I think I see both in the pic.
A clymers is only really useful if it is used, torn, has grease soaked areas and evidence of having been used to level out the ground under the center stand. But yours is probably looking like that by now.

 

[ron bayless]

Yeah clymers isn't complete, does not have section on grime and grit. I think I see both in the pic.
A clymers is only really useful if it is used, torn, has grease soaked areas and evidence of having been used to level out the ground under hte center stand. But yours is probably looking like that by now.

what is the part I put in the picture.I see no purpose,perhaps it used to connect to a stock airbox.Yes lots of dirt and grime.That is removeable. My clymers has sweat and tears on it,no blood so far.I remember over 10 years ago i had never touched a motorcycle engine in my life.My 1980 gs 1000 blew a head gasket.Actually it was a small little rubber oilseal under the head but it required tearing the motor down to the block.I also took the block off and replaced the cylinder base gasket.Getting a cylinder block down over 4 sets of pistons is not easy by myself.I did not know how to hone cylinders,i think thats overrated anyway.There are about 4 different things to line up to get one of those in time.I had the carbs off at least 10 times, the head back off at least 4 times.i did this all with the motor still in the frame.But the first time I rode it what a satisfying feeling.This motor does not appear to be as complex.I sure hope not.

 

[gggGary]

OK got your forum welcome done, I'll guess you are referring to the crankcase vent hose with some home brew "breather valve from the local NAPA" installed. This is a reasonable solution.
since 5twins is strangely absent, I'll say it, don't buy carb kits.
Read the carb guide till your eyes bleed
search on;
throttle shaft seals
CV carbs pods, K&N
needle jet washer mod.
canadian needle oops those are BS34 searches you have the desirable 78-79 BS38's
Unlike the pool we don't have any "no diving into the shallow end" signs, Most owners survive anyways, the bikes not so much.

 

[MaxPete]

....and WeekEndRider is actually a very knowledgeable guy and has been a great contributor of useful and friendly advice to many of us....

If I may say: among the hallmarks of this wacky group are:
- we often kid around but we don't (usually) take things personally;
- any poking should be assumed to be all in fun - and a good way to be sure is to use the smileys to be certain that your message is not misinterpreted;
- if you think that you might have offended anyone - send them a PM and apologise. It costs nothing and shows class;
- if you think you may have been offended by someone - put your big-boy pants on and forget it;
- advice is freely given and is generally totally reliable - but should be accepted as being without warranty on a strictly as-is/where-is basis;
- if it's on YOUR bike and YOU were turning the wrench - and it breaks - it is YOUR fault.

....now back to our regularly scheduled program.

 

[MaxPete]

that was well handled Weekendrider ! I think I would have taken offence ! ...that just shows I need more work ! LOL
Bob........

We ALL need more work Uncle Bob!

 

[ron bayless]

....and WeekEndRider is actually a very knowledgeable guy and has been a great contributor of useful and friendly advice to many of us....

If I may say: among the hallmarks of this wacky group are:
- we often kid around but we don't (usually) take things personally;
- any poking should be assumed to be all in fun - and a good way to be sure is to use the smileys to be certain that your message is not misinterpreted;
- if you think that you might have offended anyone - send them a PM and apologise. It costs nothing and shows class;
- if you think you may have been offended by someone - put your big-boy pants on and forget it;
- advice is freely given and is generally totally reliable - but should be accepted as being without warranty on a strictly as-is/where-is basis;
- if it's on YOUR bike and YOU were turning the wrench - and it breaks - it is YOUR fault.

....now back to our regularly scheduled program.

not sure why you sent me this.general forum rules?

 

[ron bayless]

....and WeekEndRider is actually a very knowledgeable guy and has been a great contributor of useful and friendly advice to many of us....

If I may say: among the hallmarks of this wacky group are:
- we often kid around but we don't (usually) take things personally;
- any poking should be assumed to be all in fun - and a good way to be sure is to use the smileys to be certain that your message is not misinterpreted;
- if you think that you might have offended anyone - send them a PM and apologise. It costs nothing and shows class;
- if you think you may have been offended by someone - put your big-boy pants on and forget it;
- advice is freely given and is generally totally reliable - but should be accepted as being without warranty on a strictly as-is/where-is basis;
- if it's on YOUR bike and YOU were turning the wrench - and it breaks - it is YOUR fault.

....now back to our regularly scheduled program.

weekendrider is the one i poked fun at so far plus mr 2 wheels.I have ridden since 1972 and have read many posts from members and i know when a knowledgeable guy posts.Those are the ones I pick on for fun.I want to not joke around but i cant help myself.

 

[ron bayless]

oops,forgot the smileys.

 

[grizld1]

OK, Ron, since you asked, here's the deal with the R/W wire. Brown= switched power from main switch. R/W=switched power from kill switch. The R/W provides power to the ignition and to the starter solenoid through the safety relay, which kills power to the solenoid when it senses current from the alternator. The starter button completes the ground connection for the solenoid via the Blue/White wire. Do yourself a big favor and download the factory service manual from www.knucklebusterinc.com. It's free.

And screw the smileys. We have no sense of humor here, none at all. WR posts only with serious intent. If you offend that man--well, don't claim you weren't warned.

 

[5twins]

You've exposed the bottom of your key switch, the part that does the switching, but you haven't accessed the actual lock cylinder, the part the key fits into. That's what probably needs cleaning and lubing.

 

[ron bayless]

thanks for the wiring up date.I dont understand your warning.Sounds like you are warning about being offended. Maxpete sent me the response about insert smileys so people wont know I am mad about something.I dont know who the admins or most important members are here.I do know I recently contributed a small amount to this site.geez, this is a motorcycle forum.I go here for information . I like thye xs but have never owned and I know you all know the answers to my questions.Every person that answered has so far.I have not been offended nor as far as i know I haven offended anyone.Thats the problem with the printed page.I dont want to have to put smileys or JK at the end of my posts.Thats all I have to say about that.

back to the good stuff.I see a blue white and a red white in a bundle near the solenoid.I know they are supposed to wind up where you described.I understand the reason for the safety relay,do not know where it is.Hopefully it hasnt been removed.I thought wrong about the starter.The positive post is the larger diameter wire that connects to the starter post and connects to the starter.I am following each sentence with an invisisble Correct? So the positive post from the battery should go there too? The ground wire from the battery goes to the other post?
Inside the headlight are many brown wires.I suppose they are only hot when the ign switch is on?
They are all bullet connectors mostly.The muiltipin connectors all look like plug and play. The other brown wires it would seem if they were bullet connected to a wire from the bike to one from the bucket any could go anywhere and they are all hot with the key on.?Whichever one they are slosest to is probably the one they should plug into?

The r/w is positive should start at battery positive? Is there a point inside the killswitch that indicates it is positive? or is one coming from the left handlebar assembly to connect to? If so it would seem the left side could be eliminated just for the sake of starting the bike.same with b/w.Like take some wire the correct gauge and hook direct from solenoid to the kill switch.? That would eliminate the solenoid safety switch though? So I dont want to do that.Where the r/w wire comes from under the tank-I assume one end goes up from the pos battery to pos left handlebar, through pos of ign switch which is r/w or just red?
then from left hb to ign switch, then over to pos of killswitch, then back down to the pos of solenoid?

Then the blue white follows the same path only on the negative side.if I am right either side of a solenoid can be pos or neg.Whichever one you connect all the r/w to including the solenoid becomes pos and the same for the blue white on the other post and its proper route becomes negative.All this circuit starts with the battery.I am not sure but the voltage regulator should be the first stop for the r/w and the b/w wire.The main fuse would be between the positve of the battery and the regulator? I will look for knuclebuster thread. .I ordered a solenoid.I might not have needed it now the wiring is being discussed.Sorry for the long post. The former rider of this machine must have kickstarted this bike.I dont know how hard that is but at my age i do not want to do that.he basically eliminated the starter,solenoid,battery with his method of rigging.

Last question, he took a piece of probably automotive wire,solid red, appears to be the same gauge as the b/w and r/w of the correct loom down by the solenoid.Perhaps there was a problem with the r/w circuit and he was trying to bypass it.It is t spliced into the r/w before it goes under the tank. Which makes no sense since if he was kickstarting he wouldnt need the solenoid.They are way too long and hang down enough to reach the solenoid to think he was trying to connect to the battery.There is also a like gauge of blue only color wire dangling as if he was trying to bypass the proper wiring.Of course i want it to not be rigged,but done right.Thanks for all the information.

 

[grizld1]

Re. the starter solenoid: it's a low load switch that closes a high load switch. The contacts for the low load switch are as described: Red/White hot wire, Blue/White switched ground wire. When the low load switch is closed it closes a connection between the two posts. One post should be connected directly to the battery + terminal by a thick cable. The other post should be connected to the starter motor by another heavy cable. Both are hot--if you ground one post you'll just blow a fuse when you hit the starter button. The starter motor is grounded to the engine.

I have no better idea than you of what the PO was up to. The only thing I know how to do in a situation like that is to meter out the mess.

 

[ron bayless]

Re. the starter solenoid: it's a low load switch that closes a high load switch. The contacts for the low load switch are as described: Red/White hot wire, Blue/White switched ground wire. When the low load switch is closed it closes a connection between the two posts. One post should be connected directly to the battery + terminal by a thick cable. The other post should be connected to the starter motor by another heavy cable. Both are hot--if you ground one post you'll just blow a fuse when you hit the starter button. The starter motor is grounded to the engine.

I have no better idea than you of what the PO was up to. The only thing I know how to do in a situation like that is to meter out the mess.

Thanks for this reply and all the others i am getting.When I was on the GS resources forum one guy said I had too many posts.I dont want to be that way.I just do not understand electricity. I wish I could talk to Bobby Boucher's mom.

 

[grizld1]

I sympathize, having been an acute electrophobe for years. According to the APA, the only known cure for electrophobia is a mixture of study, observation, stubbornness, and high tolerance for humiliation.

 

[ron bayless]

I sympathize, having been an acute electrophobe for years. According to the APA, the only known cure for electrophobia is a mixture of study, observation, stubbornness, and high tolerance for humiliation.

true that.I destroyed a gs850,melted the harness by connecting something wrong.I bought a replacement off ebay.once in my hand I thought brilliant, now you have another one to destroy.I sold it to a former harley mechanic.As he was paying me he looked at the wiring and smiled.I bet he had it running in one day.

 

[Bob Kelly III]

Ron : You need a battery and Volt Ohm meter or trouble-light and install the battery and hook up the ground from the neg side of the battery to a bolt on the frame. ( a heavy wire or cable should be used)
if the fuse box is missing it's going to be a long hard haul getting that thing working again.... You have to do it, no one else will, so put on you thinking cap ! sounds like your not Incompetent ! so Go for it ! Reason and electric circuits do actually work.... but it's variable at times , or at least seams so !
.....hehehehhe !
Personally I like allot of Posts, it shows that your interested, check often and are still pursuing the task !
in the Tech section here there is a bunch of easy to read Wiring diagrams , the Identification number is stamped under the front Right frame engine mount, on the engine it self , it's hard to see but it can be done . matching that number with the list in the tech section will tell you what year and all the bike originally was .
the tech section can be found here under forums, Garage..... then select tech section at the top.
....
Joking around is done here ! quite a bit ... and yes the smilies do help ! LOL....

A motorcycle is a Learning experience.... all the way through , you learn how to make the money to get one in the first place , then you learn how to make it run, then you learn how to ride it without Killing yourself ! <GRIN>
.....
clean that poor machine up man ! it's Killing me seeing is all dusty like that !!!!! LOL
....Bob.......

 

[ron bayless]

Ron : You need a battery and Volt Ohm meter or trouble-light and install the battery and hook up the ground from the neg side of the battery to a bolt on the frame. ( a heavy wire or cable should be used)
if the fuse box is missing it's going to be a long hard haul getting that thing working again.... You have to do it, no one else will, so put on you thinking cap ! sounds like your not Incompetent ! so Go for it ! Reason and electric circuits do actually work.... but it's variable at times , or at least seams so !
.....hehehehhe !
Personally I like allot of Posts, it shows that your interested, check often and are still pursuing the task !
in the Tech section here there is a bunch of easy to read Wiring diagrams , the Identification number is stamped under the front Right frame engine mount, on the engine it self , it's hard to see but it can be done . matching that number with the list in the tech section will tell you what year and all the bike originally was .
the tech section can be found here under forums, Garage..... then select tech section at the top.
....
Joking around is done here ! quite a bit ... and yes the smilies do help ! LOL....

A motorcycle is a Learning experience.... all the way through , you learn how to make the money to get one in the first place , then you learn how to make it run, then you learn how to ride it without Killing yourself ! <GRIN>
.....
clean that poor machine up man ! it's Killing me seeing is all dusty like that !!!!! LOL
....Bob.......

I need to get a fusebox like someone suggested with spade connectors.It would need one spot for main,taillights,turn signals,headlights,brakelights? Just guessing. But then,how to wire it in.Over my head.I am going to get rid of 10 pounds of dirt from it soon.I work night shift, working next 2 nights.After that i am rolling it outside and take a bucket of carwash and get it at least cleaner. Looking at schematics sometimes they show a square with fuses in it.I work in intensive care unit.Have for 32 years.If I took a layperson into a room, and said this is an arterial line, this is a pulmonary artery catheter, this is a left ventricular assist device, these 4 ivs have 3 vasopressors and one calcium channel blocker because of runs of paroxysmal atrial tachycardia would you know what I mean? Thats how wiring is to me.Every post someone knowledgeable like you send my way is clearing the fog.