rear wheel bearing removal - 1981 xs650

[pa23driver]

does anyone have any tips on removing the rear bearing on a mag wheel?

the manual says to move the spacer to the side and tap around the bearing inner race to remove it. the problem is the spacer isn't moving to the side allowing me access to the inner race

 

[jamesgs4]

use a sharp drift at an angle and hammer it to "catch" the edge of the bearing where the spacer tube and the bearing meet. Should pop out with a couple of taps on each side.

 

[pa23driver]

sounds good, i'll pick up a set of drift punches tomorrow.

I was using a set of pin punches, but just wasn't cutting it.

I got the wheel inside right now warming up, thinking that grease is from 1981 and locking everything in place, hopefully i'll get more movement in the morning

 

[5twins]

On these rear wheels, you don't have to go through that whole routine of sliding the spacer to the side to get at the bearing. That only needs to be done for the fronts. On the sprocket side bearing, there's a top hat shaped spacer (#20 below) pressed into it from the rear. Find a socket that fits on that and simply drive it into the hub. It will push the center spacer and the other bearing out. Then it's a simple matter to remove the sprocket side one with a drift of some sort.

 

[pa23driver]

^^ mine doesn't look like that diagram 5twins. heres some pics of what i'm working with

# 20 seems to be on the brake side:

the sprocket side:

Also my spacer is a different type, i don't have a hole in it

 

[5twins]

Your pics aren't showing? As far as I know, all 650 rear wheels are set up like that picture. Is your wheel from a different bike maybe? The top hat shaped spacer is reused and installed in the new sprocket side bearing before installing it into the hub. Many get tossed out with the old bearing because guys don't know it's a separate part. Then the new bearing is too big on the axle.

 

[weekendrider]

And good luck finding one(#20) if it's gone.

 

[Grinder]

What's the purpose of #8 in the diagram? Noticed that on the front wheel spacer as well.

 

[gps2]

Also my spacer is a different type, i don't have a hole in it

Should not matter as long as it lives inside the inner race of the bearing, you can hammer it through and it will push the opposite bearing out as 5Twins says. It's easy.

I wish I had known this when I did my bearings this winter.

Posted via Mobile

 

[pa23driver]

i tried hammering thing through, and it isn't budging, i'll try linking the pictures a different way.

brake side

another view

sprocket side

another view

maybe you guys can tell me if its the correct wheel or not

 

[gps2]

Posted via Mobile

 

[pa23driver]

I'll give it another shot, as the harley guys say "hit it harder"

 

[pa23driver]

hitting it harder wins again. i guess i just needed reassurances that i was doing everything right and that i wouldn't be screwing things up if i wacked on it harder. i didn't understand the tophat type part until i got the bearing assembly apart, now it makes sense.

thanks for everyones help

 

[weekendrider]

Grinder I think #8 is just to aid in alignment and support if one side goes out.
Which will happen if brass or copper is substituted for #20.

 

[Grinder]

weekendrider, I think you are right. I just knocked mine apart tonight and it looks like it just supports the sleeve on the brake side. This thread helped alot as I wouldn't have known about the tophat part.

Does #23 actually touch the tophat part when assembled? My #20 is a little beatup and I could chuck it in the lathe and clean up the end a little. Looks like someone was beating on it before me. I'm just not sure if the #23 butts up to the inner race of the bearing or the #20. I'm setting up a pair of mags for my bike and don't have all of the spacers etc. out of the old wheels yet.(still on the bike).
Thanks for the info

 

[5twins]

You'll just have to hold that #23 spacer up to the bearing and see. I'm thinking it may contact both but in actual use, the inner race would be the most important.

 

[XSLeo]

I think # 8 keeps #7 centered. #7 keeps the inner bearing races the right distance apart. Without it when you tighten the axle the inner races can get pushed to close together and bind the bearing or push the race out of the bearing.
#22 is the seal to keep water out of the hub. #23 goes thru the seal and gives the seal something to seal against. #24 is a cover that protects the seal.
As you tighten the axle # 23, the #21 bearing race, #20, #7, #9 bearing race and the brake plate all get squeezed together. This holds the bearing inner races tight so the balls and outer races turn around them.
The move the spacer over and drive the bearing out only works on the front. With #8 in place the spacer can't move over.

 

[pa23driver]

a little tip i figured out today after 3 attempts:

after you install the small bearing put the axle through the bearing, that way it holds #7 in place while you tape the larger bearing into place with the axle through it. otherwise #7 will fall into the rim and you'll have to beat the bearing out again

sounds obvious but hopefully someone will read it and it'll save em some time

 

[Grinder]

Leo, I have that #8 collar on the front wheel spacer as well, which made it very difficult to get the spacer to move over enough to drive the bearing out. Thanks for the info.

 

[Ironhead]

a little tip i figured out today after 3 attempts:

after you install the small bearing put the axle through the bearing, that way it holds #7 in place while you tape the larger bearing into place with the axle through it. otherwise #7 will fall into the rim and you'll have to beat the bearing out again

sounds obvious but hopefully someone will read it and it'll save em some time

Great thread;
I am just getting ready to do my rear rim (mag), I bought one from 'Joe Wise Guys' glass beaded and it came as just the rim. I was going to enlist the help of the great minds here for help in a thread, but you answered most questions that I had with this one.

My only remaining question is:
Does anyone know where to purchase the parts #7-#8-and #20? I do not have them but I have a set of All-Balls bearings, or at least can someone tell me what the hell those parts are called, so it'll be easier to track them down. Thanks again for this thread some good insight and tips are always helpful.