Refurbing a '78 Standard

Yes, that is the correct order, but I think you have both the seals pictured upside down. When flipped over, the rubber part of the All Balls one will actually snap onto the bottom of the bearing's inner cage.
 
Honestly, if you keep them greased, I don't think the tapered bearings will ever wear out. The only thing I could ever see removing on mine is the lower bearing on the tree. I used the MikesXS bearing kit so it came with no additional grease seals. Now that I see how well the All Balls seal works on the bottom, I wish I had one there. Grease constantly oozes out of my bottom bearing and makes a mess. On the other hand, I guess that makes it sort of self lubing, lol. I switched to a heavier grease now and hopefully that will help, but there's still some of the old stuff in there that's going to eventually come out on it's own.
 
Today I get the wheels true. My friend who has done many of them is going to guide me through the process.

Is there a torque spec for the spokes? I don't see one listed anywhere.

The hub flanges centered on the rim. Is there an easy way to measure the offset?

Some before and after pictures.

front hub orig.jpg front hub 2.jpg RearBefore.jpg RrSpokes1.jpg
 
Uh, oh.
DontDoit.jpg

Given various combinations of spoke/rim materials, coatings, and possibly washers, I've just gone by ear.
Tap the spoke, listen, something like this:


I'll never forget the sound of factory new wheels, tapping on the spokes while rotating the wheel. "My-Dog-Has-Fleas"...
 
There may be a torque spec that the factory uses when assembling wheels but I've never seen it listed anywhere. It's probably one of those things the factory figures your typical owner doesn't need to know or will never make use of. It also takes a special torque wrench to apply it and they're pretty expensive. I just make them tight, like tightening a small bolt. You kinda develop a feel for spokes and learn what tight is for them. I also tap them and listen to the "ring". But be aware, you usually can't make them all the same tightness, the rim won't be true if you do. Some will need to be a little tighter than others to make the rim true.
 
Both wheels are done. The front came along without complaint, but the rear was not so cooperative.

Ready for new shoes.
 
The frame is done. There were some "issues" with it when the painter returned it and I thought it might have to be done over. But he was able to touch it up to my satisfaction. Not perfect, but quite nice. No rust, anymore!

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Lots to do.
 
I am cleaning the engine in preparation for putting it back in the frame. I rolled onto my lift, tilted it forward and used my pipe frame to lift the transmission. Then I found this:

1475864454743-1155747781.jpg

Is this fatal?
 
Have you noticed any issues prior? Doesn't look good, but would probably be possible to get it welded if it's not cracked beyond that point.
 
Have you noticed any issues prior?

I don't think it is leaking anything from there. I had a small drop or two on the garage floor after a ride. I believe it is the starter seal. The starter came out with absolutely no resistance from the old seal. The starter is sitting on a drip pan and the puddle of oil underneath the starter is slowly growing. I figure it is full of oil. Got the seal for the starter, too.

My feeling is it isn't fatal. But it makes me wonder if this bike had been crashed at some time. Looks like the crown has been knocked off that nut. Also a big scar on the drain plug next to it. There is a dent in the exhaust on the left side and the original headlight bucket and support arms were bashed to one side. They were unusable. Good thing I got it cheap!
 
I bet it's fixable. BTW, I have the original Headlight bucket and arms from my '79 that I'm not using if you need them.
 
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