Refurbing a '78 Standard

[pckopp]

Finished with the JB Weld, installed the starter/case seal, and the starter. After lunch I rebuilt the carbs. Shiny!



Now to get cleaned up and eat some BBQ. Life is good.

 

[5twins]

A note on the carb top screws. Yamaha used two lengths there, shorter ones for spots that just go through a carb top, longer ones for spots that go through a bracket and the top. However, they shorted us one long screw, lol. You need 5, they only gave us 4. That means one of the screws through a bracket and top won't reach all the way through and engage all the available threads. It only catches by a couple and is easily stripped. Replacing it with another long screw is a good idea.

 

[pckopp]

However, they shorted us one long screw, lol. You need 5, they only gave us 4.

Exactly!

 

[pckopp]

It's time to further my education.

The silver tube goes inside the rubber sleeve which goes into the caliper. The outside diameter of the rubber sleeve is larger than the hole in the caliper it goes into, so that it squeezes the silver tube to the point it will not move. The whole point of this assembly is so the caliper can adjust to the brake rotor, right? If I put the silver tube in the rubber sleeve alone it will move. I even added a touch of grease on the inside of the rubber sleeve and it still won't move when mounted in the caliper. At least it won't move without an inordinate amount of force. And it is a royal pain to install. I painted the caliper and then sanded the hole thoroughly to make sure I haven't made it any smaller.

Is it supposed to be this tight? Or am I missing something?



TIA

 

[5twins]

Yes, it's supposed to move, slide back and forth slightly as you apply and release the brake. Lube it more or with something better. I use red rubber grease. It's a special grease made for rubber.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...r+grease.TRS0&_nkw=red+rubber+grease&_sacat=0

 

[MaxPete]

+1 - it is very important that the slider be able to....you know, ....slide.

<grin>

P

 

[pckopp]

+1 - it is very important that the slider be able to....you know, ....slide.

It slides! I wasn't able to find the Castrol red grease but several mechanics knew of it and a Permatex product was recommended as a replacement. It works like I expect it to.

While I am waiting for a couple of parts and with the engine out of the frame I have been cleaning it. Not perfect by any means, but I did get most of the gunk off. Tedious, but there it is.

New sump filter and gasket, new crush washers, I think I might attach a frame in the next day or two.

 

[5twins]

Yes, that red rubber grease isn't readily available here in the States, don't know why. I had to send off to England for mine. It's available all over the place there. Same with red NGK plug caps, they got 'em, we don't.

 

[pckopp]

Details.

Sanded off the first of the frame grounding points. Upper and lower rear mounts on the frame and the upper triangular plates. Not a great photo of the plates, they are cleaner than they look. Also the battery ground connection at the top of the frame and a spot on the left coil mount for the Pamco ignition ground. Also, one of the top engine mounts with the little pigtail.

Am I forgetting one?

Okay, how many of you were betting I would forget this? I had a piece of masking tape stuck to the frame with "Frame grounds" written on it so I wouldn't. Of course, it would have been easier if I had remembered before painting. Doh!

 

[MaxPete]

Dang PCKOPP - you do nice work!

Peter

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

...Am I forgetting one?

To "what" will your battery ground cable connect?

 

[pckopp]

To "what" will your battery ground cable connect?

My battery ground cable bolts to the frame cross member right behind the battery box.

Or did I not understand your question?

 

[pckopp]

Dang PCKOPP - you do nice work!

Thanks! My friends call me Phil.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

My battery ground cable bolts to the frame cross member right behind the battery box.

Or did I not understand your question?

Ok, you got it. Probably fine if you're following the OEM method.

Just thinking out loud, and doing my part to contribute to your 'project creep'.

There's a lot of info out there on proper grounding, improved grounding, the "Big 3 upgrade", ...etc. I'm not familiar at all with the wiring on your later model, but assuming you're retaining the starter, a good grounding system would have a dedicated heavy ground cable going direct from the battery to a mount point on or near the starter casing. A secondary smaller wire would go to the frame.

Like OEM auto setups.

 

[XSLeo]

You only need one seal. I just used my stock seal. It was in great shape.
Leo

 

[pckopp]

There's a lot of info out there on proper grounding, improved grounding, the "Big 3 upgrade", ...etc. I'm not familiar at all with the wiring on your later model, but assuming you're retaining the starter, a good grounding system would have a dedicated heavy ground cable going direct from the battery to a mount point on or near the starter casing. A secondary smaller wire would go to the frame.

Just like my Moto Guzzi! In fact I saw an XS wired just like that last summer. In general that bike was a rusty mess and likely the only way it would start and run reliably. Thanks.

 

[pckopp]

Progress!
Several helping hands make for light work. My wife, and a riding-buddy friend from just up the street.

 

[MaxPete]

Look in' good Phil - that's going to be a very nice ride indeed.

Pete

 

[pckopp]

Making some progress.

 

[pckopp]

Shiny spokes is all I wanted when I started this project.