Yes, I've never seen a case crack in that spot before. Your theory about it getting bumped sounds good. If it isn't leaking, the fix may be as simple as filling it with JBWeld and clamping it shut with some vice grips until it sets.
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Refurbing a '78 Standard
- Thread starter pckopp
- Start date
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- 78 standard painting refurbish
I snagged a couple of pics a couple of years ago, that look like the same scenario.
I'd almost wonder if it's the same engine.
I'd agree with 5twins to try to patch the crack somehow. Not so much as to prevent leakage (don't see that happening there), but to prevent crack progression, and retain compression integrity for the amount of stud/nut torque applied there.
The early XS1-XS2 used some non-domed long nuts down there, later revised as all being domed. So, you may have an older nut there, not ground-off.
pckopp
XS650 Addict
They really do look the same.
In cleaning the starter and hardware I noticed one of the bolts was non-stock. Also the flat washer and lock washer that went with it were new and slightly different. Also, a corner fin on the oil filter plate is broken off. So I believe mine took quite a whack. Wonder if hit a curb?
My engine number matches my frame so it is original. Wonder if that crack is a common fault?
I believe JB Weld is in my future.
Thanks everyone.
In cleaning the starter and hardware I noticed one of the bolts was non-stock. Also the flat washer and lock washer that went with it were new and slightly different. Also, a corner fin on the oil filter plate is broken off. So I believe mine took quite a whack. Wonder if hit a curb?
My engine number matches my frame so it is original. Wonder if that crack is a common fault?
I believe JB Weld is in my future.
Thanks everyone.
pckopp
XS650 Addict
Probably the last one for this year. I would like to go. I'll keep you posted. Thanks.
Some castings (especially large, complex aluminium castings) often have a certain spot that is prone to cracking - and the same crack will be found in many examples. So - if more than one or two of us have seen that same crack in the same place - it may just be a fault in the casting design (usually caused by residual stresses and/or inadequate or uneven cooling left over from the casting process).
As long as it isn't causing a problem, I'd repair it with either aluminium welding (if the engine is all apart) or JB Weld followed by some sanding and filing to make it look better.
pckopp
XS650 Addict
Here it is all apart. I just touched that broken piece and it popped off. Held on by sludge and the engine mount bolt, I think. In the close up of the broken piece you can see where the mounting bolt touched it. in line with the dental pick point. It is a tight fit.
I see some JB Weld in my future.
That looks like the perfect candidate for a JB Weld fix. The textured surfaces of the break will grip the epoxy well. Just don't goop it on too thick or excess squeezing out on the inside may "weld" the stud to it. That could make a future case splitting difficult. While clamped in place and drying, I would also snug the nut and a good flat washer (smooth on the bottom) against it so it's fully seated in. If you don't and the broken part is too high, putting the nut and washer back on after it's dry may just break the part off again.
If you have the engine completely stripped down sometime then you might consider low temperature aluminium welding. "Peanut" has written about this technique in the following thread and shows photos of a job he did on a casing:
Trouble/What To Do With This Stock BS34 Minikuni Carb?
JB Weld may be a nice solution and is naturally free from thermal warping and could be done without stripping down the engine. But if the engine is apart then I would probably go for a permanent solution, perhaps TIG by a specialist in aluminium.
Trouble/What To Do With This Stock BS34 Minikuni Carb?
JB Weld may be a nice solution and is naturally free from thermal warping and could be done without stripping down the engine. But if the engine is apart then I would probably go for a permanent solution, perhaps TIG by a specialist in aluminium.
In addition to 5twins excellent advice for flushing the top I would think about a wooden block/wedge for the back side.
I wonder if the P/O simply went over a curb or some other obstacle and bashed that big accorn nut into something and that cracked the case....?
pckopp
XS650 Addict
My thoughts exactly. In addition to that damage the drain plug next to it has a big scar, the nearest starter bolt was replaced, there is a gouge in the case where the starter shaft goes, and the filter plate has a corner fin broken off.
Still a fun bike to ride!
ahhhh - there you go.
As long as it doesn't leak, I would just "weld" it up with some JB and enjoy! You might want to see it you could replace the (almost certainly bent) stud that the nut is threaded onto.
As long as it doesn't leak, I would just "weld" it up with some JB and enjoy! You might want to see it you could replace the (almost certainly bent) stud that the nut is threaded onto.
I wouldn't say that stud is bent for sure. It still looks relatively centered in the hole in your pic with the broken piece removed. It really couldn't move much before hitting the case (and cracking it). I think the case stopped it from moving far enough to get bent. I think it moved a little then sprung back.
hmmmmm - could be.....
pckopp
XS650 Addict
I think I have to go with 5T on this one. I can't see any bend and I shined a bright light down the hole. The threaded end does move freely in all directions. It will be fine, I'm sure.
My wife suggested a new custom washer with "skirts" fore and aft to hold the part in place even after JB Weld. Not really in my skill set.
I did get the starter cleaned and the seal replaced. No oil inside so that seal was still good. Lots of life in the brushes.
On it goes.
Sounds good - let's keep those old standards rollin' on.
Well, I've just been called to go carve the turkey for Thanksgiving Dinner (I'm Canadian and we have our earlier than our US friends). Have great evening everyone and ride safely!
Pete
Well, I've just been called to go carve the turkey for Thanksgiving Dinner (I'm Canadian and we have our earlier than our US friends). Have great evening everyone and ride safely!
Pete
...sorry - hit send too fast.
Could you shoot us a photo of your repair when its all done?
Cheers,
Pete
Could you shoot us a photo of your repair when its all done?
Cheers,
Pete
pckopp
XS650 Addict
Certainly.
Enjoy your dinner!
PS: Some years ago my wife and I rode across Ontario, east to west on our Goldwing. We kept asking each other, partly in jest, "Our we out of Ontario yet?". After starting in Montreal (I know, Quebec) then Ottowa, Toronto, Tobermory, ferry to Highway 6, and then the Trans Canada around the Lakes to Thunder Bay, and finally to Winnipeg. Your provinces are just way too big.
We love BC and ride there often. Even on old XS650s.
pckopp
XS650 Addict
JB Weld!
I am doing this in two steps. My first application of jbw was to the outside half of the broken surface. Tiny screwdrivers are good. Then I carefully put the piece in position using that first bit of jbw like glue. You can just see a skinny bead of jbw when it is in position. Just what I wanted. Once in position I clamped it and put another layer around the piece.
Tomorrow I will add one more layer over the top where the vice grips are to lock it into position. I put a straight edge on the washer surface to make sure it was flat and even. It is.
I am doing this in two steps. My first application of jbw was to the outside half of the broken surface. Tiny screwdrivers are good. Then I carefully put the piece in position using that first bit of jbw like glue. You can just see a skinny bead of jbw when it is in position. Just what I wanted. Once in position I clamped it and put another layer around the piece.
Tomorrow I will add one more layer over the top where the vice grips are to lock it into position. I put a straight edge on the washer surface to make sure it was flat and even. It is.
That looks really good!
