Refurbishing

Pulled the front master cylinder apart today. I think that's the original brake fluid in there.

Eeeeeeewwwwwwww!
 
Yeah ain't it pretty? Scary what we trust our lives with because... "It was working when I bought it". Littlebill has a nice MC rehab how-to in tech if you need it.
 
No trouble rebuilding, installing stainless line and bleeding the front brake.

Not so happy with the back brake. Kit wasn't exactly the same though it appeared to be correct, snap ring from the kit broke the first time I compressed it to put it in (had to reuse the old one) and I'm having trouble bleeding it.

I back-bled the front using the oil can technique, and it worked slick as a smelt.

Tried that on the back and used what I thought was way too much fluid with nothing coming into the reservoir. After screwing with that for an hour, I filled the reservoir and bled in the conventional way. Burped a little air out and do have some brakes, but the pedal travel is WAAAAAAAAY too long.

I'm guessing there's either A) still air in the system or 2) that master cylinder kit is messed up.

I'm giving it a rest to get warmed up and hopefully get the air to the high spots and then I'll bleed it some more.
 
I found that the hose from the resivour doesn't go straight to the M/C. it has a high point. That lets air get trapped between the resivour and M/C.
I unhooked the resivour and M/C from the frame. Held it up so the hose was straight then bled the system. After all bled I put it back in place. Works good.
There is a pedal hieght adjuster on the inside of the frame and the pushrod from the arm on the pivot shaft to the M/C is adjustable. If these are set wrong makes the pedal stroke too long.
Page 171 in the Clymer book tells how to.
Leo
 
Makes sense, Leo. There is that big loop that goes up over the top of the caliper and then back down along the swing arm.

That great gormy hose between the reservoir and the master cylinder has a pretty good loop in it too.

I'll go try getting things vertical and get back to ya.
 
Problem solved. The kit I got from Mike's XS was supposed to be for 78-80 rear master cylinders. Either it; 1)wasn't or B) was a complete POS.

I put the original parts back in after a thorough cleaning and bip-bam-boom...brakes.
 
Another progress report.

Tires mounted, statically balanced and re-installed.

New brake lines installed front and rear, master cylinders disassembled, inspected, cleaned and reassembled, brakes bled.

Question on routing front brake line: I went with the one piece stainless to eliminate the little manifold on the lower triple clamp. I routed the new line between the headlight ears and behind the trim piece on the front of the lower triple clamp. Looking at it today, I think it might be better to run it outside the ear and down the outside of the fork, through a routing loop on one of the lower fork clamp bolts. Thoughts?

enginein.jpg


Got the engine back in (twice, forgot to put the dang starter motor back on...) and the mounting bolts in place and just snugged for now.

Upper front engine mount bolt (the long one that goes through the outside frame rails) had been replaced with a piece of threaded rod (!) when the highway pegs and lower fairing mount were installed. Gonna hafta scrounge up the proper bolt for that.

So, now I'm down to finishing up sorting out the wiring, buying a chain and mufflers, and futzing with the paint and bodywork.
 
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^If it was me I'd put the line where it was protected best. Most ppl put it through a padded clamp bolted where the joiner pipe used to be. If it's the single piece line from you-know-where, expect the clear coating to haze up and then start flaking off in a few months.
 
To late to mention it now, but I will anyway. To install or remove the starter just unhook all the engine mounts except the lower bolt, rotate the engine forward. Give you plenty of room.
Leo
 
Time for another update.

I re-rerouted (third time's the charm...) that front brake line per 5twins advice and I must say it's MUCH better, thanks!

Got my chain, mufflers and air box rubbers, so I installed all those goodies and put the carbs back on.

I looked at the muffler situation and wound up installing them without adapters. I took the reducer that came with them off, and they tapped over the boss that's welded to the inner pipe where the outer pipe ends very nicely. Just a little gentle persuasion with a dead blow hammer. From there I was able to use the stock rear mounts with the hangar strap that came with the mufflers.

All the mounting stuff is tucked neatly away and I think it looks pretty good, other than that bit of ugliness right at the end of the outer pipe on the header. That's where the bottom drain holes are, probably a bit of scrubbing and buffing will take care of the worst of it.

When I cut the old mufflers off, I cut a bit further forward than I would have if I'd known exactly what was where inside the outer pipe. I won't know if that's gonna be a problem, rattling-wise, until I get it running. If it is, a bit of time with the welder will fix that.

So, a bit of clean-up on the wiring and it will be time to start tweaking and tuning.
 

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It's ALIVE!

"Tater" (It's a Yam, ya know...) is together enough to run. As you can hear, there's a lot of tuning left to do, but it's nice to hear it make noise again.

Spark is quite weak (yellow) on the right side, I"m thinking them 30+ year old coils gotta go. I'll be keeping the original points ignition for the immediate future (no money...) so a fresh set of coils and a new condenser will be the next thing.

Then I can start dicking around with the carbs.

I forgot to set the float height before I put them back on, so that'll be the first step, then synching and looking at jetting and all the other fun that goes with carbs.

Still, a nice mid-winter treat to hear it run again.
 
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