Removing carbs

[maxpower3]

Hi guys,

I tried searching for this, but I didn't find a topic right on. If it's already been posted, my apologies.

I'm a new owner trying to remove the carburetors from the engine. I unscrewed the 4 allen bolts (2 per carb) holding the unit to the engine. So now the carb unit is "free floating," held in place by the frame. Here's my question -- do I need to separate the carbs to remove them individually? I tried to maneuver the carb unit out without separating the unit, and no matter what I did, I couldn't do it without the frame getting in the way. How do I get this freakin' thing out?

Thanks!

 

[XSLeo]

Bolt the holders back on the engine. Loosen the clamp screw around the holder. This will let the carbs come out of the holders. If you remove the holders now the carbs come out easy.

 

[stuntdouble]

.... remove the frame .... if nothing else it gives you an excuse to do a full resto or chop/bob!

 

[gggGary]

+1 for XSLeo
Those carbs can be pretty cozy in the holders, usually takes some serious wiggling to get them out. A little lube helps them go back in when you are done.

 

[maxpower3]

So is the consensus to bolt the 4 allen bolts back into the engine, and then loosen the 'clamps' near the bolts?

 

[angus67]

yes. spray some penetrating oil on the boot, the've prolly been on for a long time. let them sit for a while. hour. why are you taking them off?

 

[maxpower3]

I'm doing a complete tear down, leaving just the engine and the frame.

 

[maxpower3]

This is the best generic shot of what I'm talking about. Is the clamp thing we're talking about loosening the silver belt immediately to the left of the bolts holding the carbs to the engine?

 

[xjwmx]

Mine ('81) comes out without disturbing the boots. 'But you'd think it's impossible at first. Pull vent hose off and out, tilt carbs back, tilt left down, tilt carbs up, tillt a little here and a little there and out through the left side. Takes ten minutes to figure it out each time but it will come out. Rub spit or your favorite lubricant on the boots and the carbs will slide right in.

 

[5twins]

For some reason, the BS34s prefer to go in/out the left side, the BS38s like the right. For either, remove the acorn cover nut on the cam chain adjuster, for the 38s remove the throttle cable bracket. I use WD40 to lube the boots.

 

[gggGary]

Yep loosen the hose clamp type band.

 

[chopitdropit]

For some reason, the BS34s prefer to go in/out the left side, the BS38s like the right. For either, remove the acorn cover nut on the cam chain adjuster,

Amazingly enough, I've had mine off so many times lately, I've found the magic spots and don't have to remove anything, I just wiggle 'em out the left side...bs34's. It took awhile to figure it out...lol.

 

[Mark Lewis]

Does the air filter box have to come out first?

 

[lakeview]

Mark, those air boxes do add complexity to the job. Loosen those clamps off as well, maybe loosen a couple of the air box mounting bolts too. Be sure to take the big acorn nut off as well. Of course the field is clearer if you dismount them, but they are not really in the way; where they come into play is when you are removing carbs, crounched in an uncomfortable position with flies buzzing, and not really knowing what you are doing, they are a prime suspect for the difficulty, when it is just the carbs being the way they are.

 

[5twins]

I take them off. It's only a couple bolts and gives you much more room to work.

 

[weekendrider]

me 2

 

[fredintoon]

Yeah, me three.
Not that the airboxes really NEED to come off, it's that my alter-ego Mr. Fumblefingers hates the way the blood drips off his knuckles while trying to finagle the carbs off with the airboxes in place.
I have the stock airboxes carefully saved on a shelf now and there's Unipods on the carbs instead.

 

[gggGary]

Yeah those big air volume stock airboxes. The XS650 makes so much horsepower anyways, who needs em?

 

[grizld1]

Max, I don't know where that "generic shot" came from, but it shows a VM series aftermarket carburetor. Unlike the OE carbs, those mount without a bracket to foul the frame, so removal is simple once the clamp is loosened (and yes, the clamp is that "silver belt.") The carb shown lacks a lock nut on the carb top adjuster; unless there are inline adjusters in the cable set, somebody doesn't know what he's doing.

 

[Mark Lewis]

I got the carbs off and repainted the air boxes while I had them out.