I'd remove the stator and check the wiring loom and the brush assembly for shorts if you haven't already done so
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Rotor gone bad?
- Thread starter xs650newb
- Start date
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- Tags
- chargin resistance rotor slip ring
I'd remove the stator and check the wiring loom and the brush assembly for shorts if you haven't already done so
xs650newb
XS650 Addict
Ok. Got it!
It was that weird bracket which covers the top of the brushes (where the wires connect).
I distinctly remember when I got my bike that this piece was bent at an odd angle but I thought it was supposed to be that way.
I just found this picture on the site and I see that it should be flat. Mine is bent so that it barely touches the screw which connects the wire to the brush. I guess with vibration it worked its way over time to be touching the screw. This explains why one day the bike was fine and the next day it was not. ITs like an off-off switch.
(Arrow points to what I am talking about)
I'm going to bend it back flat and see how I do. What is the purpose of that piece? Could it be remove?
Adam
It was that weird bracket which covers the top of the brushes (where the wires connect).
I distinctly remember when I got my bike that this piece was bent at an odd angle but I thought it was supposed to be that way.
I just found this picture on the site and I see that it should be flat. Mine is bent so that it barely touches the screw which connects the wire to the brush. I guess with vibration it worked its way over time to be touching the screw. This explains why one day the bike was fine and the next day it was not. ITs like an off-off switch.
(Arrow points to what I am talking about)
I'm going to bend it back flat and see how I do. What is the purpose of that piece? Could it be remove?
Adam
Just leave it there, someone most likely bent it when turning the crank using a wrench on the 17mm rotor nut.
xs650newb
XS650 Addict
Will do.
So the current draw no longer jumps to 10+ amps BUT I am still curios about the resistance between the brushes and the stator case.
I measured the resistance of both brushes relative to the case and they both read about 1000 ohms. Is this correct?
FYI, current draw for the key ON and engine OFF is staying around 2 amps with no lights running. Slap test on the rotor is good.
Adam
So the current draw no longer jumps to 10+ amps BUT I am still curios about the resistance between the brushes and the stator case.
I measured the resistance of both brushes relative to the case and they both read about 1000 ohms. Is this correct?
FYI, current draw for the key ON and engine OFF is staying around 2 amps with no lights running. Slap test on the rotor is good.
Adam
It should be infinity.... But 1000 ohms is pretty high. Is that with the stator plugged in or not? Does it make any difference if you take the wire off the brush terminal?
If you measured 1K ohms with the stator/brushes wiring plugged into the harness, its meaningless, because of the many parallel paths on the brown wire to fuses etc.
2 amps is the normal current for the rotor.
